who here has been surfing this week?

I wonder the same thing about suitless use. But the thing feels really soft and not irritating....Honestly when I tried it it threw me off a little when I stood up trying to figure out foot placement. But it helps with paddling and I forgot about it shortly after riding a couple waves.

 

Happy belated DP! Saturday morning was sooooo much fun! 2 to 4 with occasional bigger sets, warm air and sunny. Rocked the 3/2 with 3mm boots and gloves, no hood, it always feels good to start shedding rubber! There were only about 6 of us out until 10am, not sure how that happened, but I am not complaining! YEEW

 

Thanks dude!

 

So, I went to see if surf was good this morning (2 minute drive)--it was. But, seeing as how I spent the weekend caring for my 20 month old granddaughter, I was honestly too exhausted to go out. Pulled a Barry, I suppose.
But, the weekend spent with the toddler was huge fun.....so, tomorrow some surf will remain; if not, I will start my paddling sessions for this year.
In a few minutes, off to the gym to work with weights again.....

 

Happy Birthday man, sounded like a good one.

 

Thanks Chavez! It sure was man, it sure was.

 

Birthday?? So you are now 18??
Hope is was a nice day for you--happy birthday, man!!

 

37 Barry, I’m almost 40, wtf happened!!!???

 

You're a spring chicken, brother...

 

No sympathy from me--I am 67--30 years your elder.
Yet, I still surf and keep myself as healthy as I know how. My family still needs me, so I will not surrender just yet.

 

I know, no sympathy from youse guys....

 

I'll give you sympathy DP. Throughout my 20s i still always felt like a kid. Halfway through 28 and i feel like Barry. My chest hair is turning grey. I'm getting grey in my beard. I pulled a grey hair out of my ear last week. I can't drink like i used to...i keep blacking out. Always had good eye sight... now I'm blind as a bat. I should probably get glasses or stop driving at night. It's not bad yet, still young and my body is doing just fine except my eyes... but at the rate I'm going I'll look like my grandpa by the time I'm your age.

 

Cheers DP! To more good years to come...
Stay surfing, stay active, stay ire, stay young at heart.

 

Couple more shots from Saturday Morning.

 

Got out this morning again....most waist high, rare chesty.
All by my lonesome, no morons around me.
Nirvana.

 

Great pics man. Your boys are killing it.

 

Every winter it gets harder and harder to surf in a 5mil. It's not the cold... I just feel slow... old. Getting out of the 5mil and into a 4/3 is like taking 10 years off my age. Then going to the 3/2 is like another ten years. By the time summer comes, and I'm barebacking it... another 10 years. I can surf all day... and do, some days.

Winter is the killer... the first signs of that slow, steady decline into old fartage.

 

Thanks. The top two shots in that post and in my prior are my youngest. The bottom two shots are his friends. They are in the water every day there are waves. Very talented little crew that is the next generation in OCNJ.

 

same way for me,i like to think I'm in good health but that's a god damn lie lol,i take my sweet time when the waters cold,il be the slowest mf paddling out,i try to not even paddle and let it just take me out.i try to save my energy for catching waves.after 2 back to back waves I have to sit there for 20 minutes and get back to normal

 

my arms and muscles are good,its my lungs that give me issues.years of smoking and breathing metal dust.my worst fear is hacking up a lugey while a set is about to unload on me.iv had it happen quite a few times and I'm always rattled and just have to get outside close my eyes and put myself in a safer place in my mind lol