who here has been surfing this week?

lotta commotion by the pier that past Saturday with la policia in full effect, no lifeguards out. welp, found out my ol neighbor bud pulled a guy caught in riptide. surf was draining but he was out there getting what he could, likely avoiding an ungodly amount of tourists on every wave. he got on the news last night. didn't hesitate at all to swim out there n get the guy (dude has asthma). everyone made it out aight, respect

 

Pg 420. Smoke it if you got it!

Made the drive up to Oceanside from Mission beach this morning. Out the door by 445, in the water by 545, back at my desk by 8:55.

Great morning. chest - head high on set. No one out, I had 3 peaks to myself for majority of the session. 2 guys paddled out in the last half hour and gave me space.

 

Looks super fun

 

10-12'? Sounds like you had a killer sesh. Don't know much about the PNW surf, other than a few vids. Seems like different setups up and down the coast. Were you surfing a point with a Channel, beach break, or what? At this point, I would be totally stoked on five footers lol...

 

Got out for an early session today .
Waist high and chunky, a bit disorganized but once I got out it was fun.

No one was out and for about an hour around 8.a.m it cleaned up a bit and i had the ocean to myself.

Its always strange to me how drifty it can be by the shore and relatively little drift on the break.

 

Jetty. Big, long jetty. Surrounding beach break wasn't surfable. 10'-12' on the face, so what I would call about 6'+ with bigger sets...8' might be pushing it though.

I don't want to get into another penis measuring argument though lol.

It's a good thing my wife is really lousy at math

 

All G. Was more curious about the setup. Sounded fun

 

It's ugly today. Didn't bother checking the surf. Went shopping, cleaned the house a bit. Intense thunderstorms right now. Rode up by the beach after coming back from Shop Rite. The clouds were ugly. I'm afraid lightning is gonna strike my block any second, this is really some storm we're having. And it looks pretty crazy on the radar. Looks like a really long tail extending into PA.

Hate indoor days this time of year!

 

washout was semi choppy yesterday evening but still shoulder hi for the most part. had to find the right angle and outlet or it was just dumpy. took out the 6'9 loehr and had a couple decent rides but my sea legs weren't in it. one buddy had a buncha good lefts with his shorty. no rain, still good times getting out there. mexi n margs after to cap off the tuesday

 

Fun like waist to chest high short period wind swell this AM. Fairly clean. Not a ton of punch in this 6 second period wave. Got out around 5AM and within 10 minutes had a good 5 or 6 waves already. Nothing to write home about but definitely fun. Looks like the only chance of waves this week so I'm glad i got out. Might have some more surfable days next week. Fingers are crossed. I don't exactly enjoy waking up at 4 then working all day, but when the reward is a couple of fun waves..... it makes it all worth it and quite satisfying.

 

Flat today as per usual.

 

choppy today and no size to it at 8 a.m walked the beach for about an hour and picked up some unwanted items left behind by some folks who couldn't or didn't want to pick up after themselves.

On the other hand the sea turtles are nesting!

 

Would you move some place with a wider swell window already. Your depressing me

 

Today was just a continuation of nasty weather all around. Power even went out for a few minutes in the AM hours. Thunderstorms everywhere, too much rain.

Forecast for tomorrow looks pretty suite, so I think I need to turn in a little earlier tonight.

 

BBRRRRRRRRPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!

 

Finally a break in the thunderstorms and waves to be had this morning! I took the Fish for a spin and got a couple dozen fun rides before work.

I paddled out well before sunrise so I must of gotten a dozen or so rides before the sun even peaked over the horizon, which was grey and gloomy from the storms off in the distance.

Tide was mid incoming, wind was light out of the S / SSW making conditions slightly textured to perfectly glassy at times.

Waves were consistent in the waist - chest sometimes shoulder range, short period, peaky and most of all, fun! The rides weren't all that long but the drops were somewhat steep and fast and then maybe throw some buckets off the lip and then back down the face before fizzling out on the inside. Not bad for short period wind swell, I wish the lines were longer but i'm not complaining!

Some dude paddled out just before I was finished with my session and we traded waves for a few and shared some stoke. I was the only guy out at a normally crowded reef spot and got most of the morning to my self so I didn't mind him joining me at all. Great way to begin the day, time to make some money!

 

Mud is my enemy. I'm making war on mud. Mud is everywhere. I must defeat mud.

 

if his name is mud, he will die.

 

Dude I'm having a day like that. Except it's not mud. It's grease and dirt and grime. Working in a few diffrent restaurants this morning making some repairs. Everything i touch is leaving me aking myself "what did i just get on me? You know what, i don't even want to know". At least it's still raining so i can just go outside and wash off.

Don't eat out people. If you seen what i see daily, you'd never eat out again. It's always the expensive ritzy places that arethe worst. And don't even get me started on ice machines.

I need a surf. I wish it were yesterday.