Yesterday had good size, but kinda lumpy bumpy with the NNW wind. Still... lots of fast chunky waves and a few coverups. Today... like dave said, a lot cleaner, fewer guys out (the spot I was out at only had two other people out), but smaller and not as beefy. Long, clean hollow peelers... the swell went from ESE to SSE as it faded. All good...
Second really fun sesh this week. Not as much size as Sunday but just super rippable windswell. water was CRAZY warm and yes sharks were spotted but the waves were just too fun to worry. From around 6:00 tonight. So Stoked to score two days right before our area zoos out this weekend. Why OC is for goofies: Xon Zane backhand gaff:
Super fun, waist to stomach this morning with no one out but but a friend Light offshores until 9 then had to work but got my fill for the day
Good on ya mates! Glad you're getting it. The pics remind me that actual waves do exist. I see an airplane ticket in my future.
I hadn't been in the water or even to the beach since last surfing Betty's secret inlet spot two weeks ago and I was becoming quite surly. It's summer in south Florida and I can't expect much but the flatness can become unbearable at times. So some 5 second winde choppe kicked in from the SE this weekend and I just had to get some salt. My buddy and I spent several hours having stupid fun surfing waves of absolutely no consequence Sunday. Despite the short period and meager size, patience would reward with the occasional knee to thigh high peak that one could ride down the line all the way to the sand. Waves kept breaking right through high tide. Only two others out on wave surfing boards so crowding was not an issue (never really is here). No barrelles to be had but the wave count was ridiculous. So I scratched the itch a bit and made some lemonade. Life is good. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.
I'll second that LBC...surfed from 515 am to abootz 730am All by myself at one of the most popular New Jerseyian breakz Luckily I was still half drunk from the 4th so I wasn't afeared of no sharkz
yesterday was fun. i surfed another couple times too while i was off last week. not too bad a week to be a surfer in the Summer in NJ. get ready for the dawg days. flat spells for weeks, motherfickers. stock your beer fridge, re-spool your weedwackers, paint da fence, sand da floor, start playing croquet, etc.
Sounds like it was a helluva lot better North of Chesapeake Bay this past week. Pretty weak down here. Glad ya'll scored!
Ah it's been just lovely the past 2 weeks or so Veruca Swells running atleast 3 days a week..not epic..but I found some punchy barreling little nuggz errr one of em' Hey I pray to Allah for flat spell lasting the next two weeks while I'm a slave to the cube farm dawg
I need to start fishing more. That's a good distraction when it's flat. I've been body surfing a lot too, even in the decent swells we've had. I force myself to go for a bodysurf for a 1/2 hr after surfing for a while. I get some crappy looks from people when I swim right into the lineup and start going for set waves like I'm surfing. That sh*t is exhausting. I don't want to turn this into a ghey fitness thread, but everyone should try it (hint: wear a 3/2, you'll float better), it'll show you how out of shape you are.
Veruca I usually end up body surfing during my sesh cause I rarely rock a leash anymo' Although I did bodysurf for 2 hours last Wednesday...took a snapped in half skateboard deck ran a shoe string through the hardware holes..wahlaaa hand plane As far as 3/2 I haven't worn mines since mid may when I broke out the 202 short sleeve full..been rocking boardies and the 1 mill since that swell two sundays ago
The best bodysurfing days are those waist to chest high junky days that are just peaks and no long lines. Surfing those kind of waves gets boring for me after a while. I ditch the board and grab the fins... and in after a good 1/2 hour or 45 minutes, I'm drained.