who here has been surfing this week?

Went out at my local, and got it goode. It always works on a wonky messy south wind swell, and with the winds blowing straight out of the south it made the rights go fast. I did catch one left the was steep, and did a power cuttie and a nice hack back in to the shorie.

Last one was a right, well outside, a bit out past the jetty, as the tide was sending out bad water. Connected it all the way to the boardwalk on the inside, with a few carves. Random HH peaks and plenty of shoulder high bowls, got out after a few because tide was draining and water was turning to poop after all the rains. Crowded but not crowded, lots of peaks, and drift, so no one got in each others way. Pure bliss. Life is goode.

God Bless all our fallen heroes who have made The American Way of Life so possible. Opportunity, freedom, and waves, with great drinking water right out of the tap, surf cams to save gas, and a great internet to share story. Cheers and Blessings to those families who have sacrificed.

 

BTW I brought the right boart for once - 6' 6" Orion swallowtail and it was butter.

 

caught some fun rides at the local inlet this afternoon... short but fun . I always appreciate the gift

 

Fun session this morning! Wind out of the south so it was a little drifty but not too bad. Waves were waist - chest with a few peaks up to head high. I rode the LB and got a dozen or so really fun waves, some rides were nice and long and had a few sections to work. I’ll take it!

 

Why did you choose the LB? Was it lining up good with long rights?

 

Main reason was because I had friends over and they have a kid, none of them surf, but they all rode with my wife and I in our vehicle so strapping the LB to the roof was easier to accommodate everybody. It turned out to be a good decision. Wave quality wasn’t very punchy, good size, but didn’t have that juice behind it. Yeah there were some rights with that ESE swell angle.

 

Logged in aboot four hours yesterday afternoon in a couple different spots. North easterly swell ranging from thigh to chest high.

First sesh was a wash, got on it an hour or two too late. I had a solid 20 mins on the sb before the wind picked up. Cranked a couple turns. Then, I just wasted my time flopping around in chop just knowing I should have been at spot number two.

Finally got tired of it and drove down to the next spot. Took out my simmons and it was kinda pumping. Some really nice drops and long left walls to glide and carve around on. Being on my simm I was getting in a lot earlier than the other guys.

Totally spent.

 

Got out this AM at daybreak. Small, but glassy, took longboard out. Paddled some distance and caught a few waves as I went along the beach. my lower back responded well after injuring it a month ago.
And now comes.......the "honey-do-list" !! Ah, Oui Cherie.......

 

Glad you got out and the back didn’t act up on you!

 

Sounds like some good prep for Cloud Break paddle in surfing....

 

Same on Delmarva yesterday. I didn't see anything chest high, but plenty of waist high NE swell bumps and the wind kind of died down afternoon. Dreary weather meant complete lack of crowds, but not lack of beach traffic. Man!

 

Yeah thanks....not much sucks worse than a momentarily pinched nerved to screw up a back. Takes weeks for spasm to let up and let us on our way again. Getting old sucks, I hate to say....

 

Naw, Cloudbreak is for gremmies......

 

Wish I could say the same with regards to crowds. But, it wasn’t too bad I suppose. I’m just happy we got a little sneaker swell.

I think our buoy was reading 4.5/5 @ 7. It was odd though because between the two spots I went to there was a dramatic difference in size.

 

Fun sesh yesterday afternoon in Delmarva. Plenty of waves to go around and the crowds from the weekend were nowhere to be seen! Wind even cooperated. Happy summer dudes

 

Got a solid 3 hours at the local jetty. Only thigh high but well protected. I took out my walden 9.2 and took the side bites out. incoming tide really gave it a nice push and once in a while a bigger wave would come in and amp up the excitement. I feel so much better after being in the ocean in any capacity/

 

https://www.swellinfo.com/forum/threads/swell-4ft-at-14-seconds-good-or-bad.32357/

 

Context?

 

Got a lil' sump'n this morning. Nice, clean lines rolling in, and stiff off shores. Nice to be out of the 5 mil suite. Not too many folks out, but saw some of the usual suspects. Initially dropped in on a couple of closeouts, but once I dialed it in, caught some nice lefts and rights. Nice to have some swell with clean waves.

A couple of pictures taken at a distance before sesh.

 

Haha, your last comment reminded me of that funny thread so I bumped it lol.

But yeah it just goes to show you how tides, swells and angles mean the difference between crappy surf and good surf.