who here has been surfing this week?

Flat and windy here in Moo Hampsha, as per usual.......

 

Saturday is the reason I keep an 8ft foam log in the quiver - had some fun ones that would have been impossible to catch or get down the line on my go to boards

 

Your timing is excellent, just turned flat here and the south hemis should light it up down there (my buddy got back from Chicama a week ago, it was just starting to come alive). Pura Vida!

 

I do the same, plus the board is a tank...practically indestructible.

 

Brief sesh this afternoon.
On one wave, just as it broke, I fell. The board rolled, and I landed landed prone on the upside-down longboard, with the main fin between my thighs. Quite a kook stunt. More or less rode the wave the rest of the way like that, thankful my nads were intact.

 

Delmarva got a nice windswell hookup on the low departing and kind of spun up offshore sunday night. Winds went offshore and there was enough to the swell to stick in the chest high range all day, even late afternoon for a fun after work sesh.

 

I tried a high tide spot today. Our Swell Info sand recon sensai Frosty inspired me to check this place out after a session a few weeks back where it seemed too closed out near low tide. Well, did I ever get the goods! Chest high, offshore peaks. The direction was a bit off and with the current it was tough to stay in place but it was well worth the work call off. A fellow old head was the only other soul out. Nice chap. Not a curmudgeon like a certain someone up in NH. Some scantily clad females but none were Asian so my focus stayed true to the task at hand. Surfing is a good thing.

 

What a day Monday was! Surfed for about 4 hours at a pretty fun spot in Ocean County. Waited for a friend to come, but he flaked out an no-showed. Had to work late. Still surfed with my two best friends though. These are the days that make you forget it's early June, especially with the (still) cold water temperatures!

Chest high and glassy, with a few shoulder sets! Just how I like it! Well, I kinda like it a little bit bigger, but that'll do!

Water is still real cool at 57 degrees. Will it hit 65 before the end of June? Probably in the very last week, I predict.

 

We didn’t get our early June swell like we did last two years. Last good day of surf was Memorial Day. It’s been dribble ever since. Forecast is completely flat as far as the eye can see. We need a surprise storm or low pressure ASAP.

 

Holy shit that rhymed.

 

Got out from about 630 till dark in moco last night. Never quite cleaned up as much as I was hoping, but there was definite swell in the water, and it was rideable, and that's more than can be said for the past couple weeks. Sometime between 430 and 630 the wind shifted from northeast to light southeast which helped things quite a bit but it was still somewhat drifty and bumpy and mixed up. Got a fun ride on my first wave and then ate shit taking off on literally every subsequent wave I caught. Also got caught inside about 100 times and did a pretty ridiculous amount of paddling for a chest high day. Not sure if the repeated failures were driven by conditions, being out of shape, or riding a bort i haven't been on in a few months. But it's all good. Felt great to get out again, and felt great to have feet touching wax again for the first time since... october probably? Wore a falling-apart 3/2 with no boots and was plenty warm, so that's nice. Yeah, it could be warmer given that it's june already, but no complaints. All in all a good time, and I'm stoked.

 

Havnt been in the water since before memorial day. Maybe a week and a half. Got back on it today. Thigh to waist high. Onshore but a good onshore with that crumbly lip. Early atleast. Then it got junky. Caught a few fun ones but nothing special. Felt great to get back in the water though. Week and a half- two weeks isn't too long considering the decent run we had up till then. But man it felt like forever

 

Got out this morning, swell was kinda crappy, trying to clean up. Waves were 4-5 ft, some head high. Tides were too high, but I went out anyway, but then, I had a bit of challenging time getting back to shore as waves were smashing against rocks. Sand has been eroded away by those 3 huge nor'eastrs we had this winter. I need to sit and observe at different tides so I know where to exit next time. This old farts brain forgot to do that in the last few weeks. But sorry guys, I did not drown. You did not get rid of this old moron just yet!!!

 

yes.

surfed lake Michigan during work travel last Friday.

9' soft tops are no joke. after an hour of wrastlin' that thing i was done.

if ever in mili-wah-kay check out lake effect sarf shoppe. nice dudes. i swear the owner is chicken joe.

 

High tide shore pound can be a bitch when trying to get out if it’s dumping. Gotta time it just right. I’m sure having a wall or rocks makes it that much more difficult.

 

Exactly what it was. A lot of rock beds (big rocks) were exposed with the washing away of the sand. Makes entry and exit at high tide tricky, and admittedly, somewhat dangerous. At my age I don't need anymore injuries; recovery is much slower.

 

Yeah you don’t wanna smack your dome on one of those, might not wake up!

 

This morning was goode.

 

Missed the early session, which looked excellent when I checked on the drive to work, but just got out for a very very fun lunchbreak session. Little bit of bump on the surface and higher than optimal tide but still pretty much nonstop fun waist+ lines coming through. Got a number of fun ones in 35-40 minutes.

 

Same deal here. My spot is a standard beach break which peels past this "bone yard" type set up. Old building that's been destroyed. Huge rocks, cement, rebar, all just scattered along the beach and a bit into ocean...and it's been moving. So that sketchy piece of rebar that you know to avoid at high tide is someplace else now. On the riley swell there was no beach to get out on. With the left's and east swell. So you had to get past all the sketchy stuff, then get out where the shore break was literally pounding into a half eaten away dune/wall of sand. Was tough. And since the 2 following swells that sketchy stuff just dispersed more. I try and give my self plenty of room for error in guessing where the rocks end. Especially at high tide. Iv still found a few rocks already. And got smashed into one during riley.... but that was a diffrent scenario.

Definitely sketchy when you know there's big sharp rocks and rebar underwater that keeps extending east and west in the shore break everytime a big swell event happens. Hard to keep track