who here has been surfing this week?

I can see from the amount of posts (or lack thereof) over the last several days that I'm not the only one that hasn't been surfing. Insanely flat for most of this past week. Nothing at all doing.

Oh, believe me. It's pretty cold in Belmar, too! This June just doesn't feel much like June. Cold water, even daytime highs not making it out of the 60's some days. It's been a weird one. Will the water hit 65 before July 1st? It usually does. The latest is usually by the 25th-ish or so of June. And that's usually at the very latest. I remember that happening back in 2009. Even in 2016 it came pretty close down to the wire, but July 1st and the ocean not even being 65 in Monmouth County? It's been a very long time. I'm trying to think of what the temperature was exactly a month ago. Couldn't have been much lower than 48 degrees around May 10th, now it's only 55.

 

Today I went for a distance paddle and accidentally caught like 5 knee slappers on the LB. They were weak, very small, but rideable from time to time. With A LOT of patience and a good attitude I can say it was better than sitting on the couch. I just needed some sun on my skin and salt water in my veins. I feel good now.

 

You may now leave the Temple, Grasshoppa!!

 

New swell popped up in San Diego. Big sets on the beach - 4- 6’ on the sets. Got a handful before the wind came up.

Nice to get the /adrenaline pumping againe. Been riding 2’ waves on a new 8’ mini log for the past week. The 5’10 felt like a skateboard out there

 

Always gotta thank the Labradors.

 

Day 4 - swam many laps then ate clams casino, conch chowder, and spinach salad and washed it down with booze. I see a mini bump forecast later this upcoming week so I'll try to behave. A nice long paddle late afternoon with a 10' aluminum gaff pointed skyward is on the schedule if it all goes poof. Got to get the adrenaline going some how.

 

Dude you are making me feel guilty for slacking. I have been building a new fence and sweating like a wealthy person at an IRS audit. Nothing replaces the cardio like your doing. You have inspired me to commit to a new regimen!!! Heading to Hawaii this winter...I was going to start around Labor Day!

 

I took my girl out yesterday. She sarfed her wavestorm while I was on my simmons. Wasn’t expecting much but it ended up being a fun day. I didn’t think the winds were gonna cooperate, but it went slack for a solid two hours after low.

She was catching some long little rights. Stoked to see her going down the line some. I got a couple little wedge ups that lined up a ways. Funny how even on the smallest of days, there’s still that rush dropping in on sets.

Sunny warmish day and crystal clear water. My only complaint was the water temp. Definitely feeling cold for this time of year. Probably wouldn’t be so bad if I wasn’t wearing a four year old 3/2, but I’m trying to suck the life out of this thing.

 

How lucky we were that the web cam was down yesterday. I claim no responsibility for that. Hence the south florida dudes did not get to see the fun the locals were having trading waves, surfing backwards and generally cutting up on the clean to glassy and warm knee to thigh highs!

My board got a little ding on, so I borrowed a sweet 7’2 mini Simmons like board. It was fun, and it might have to join the quiver. After all, I plan to surf at least another 25 years!

 

So, another 25?? And you plan to do so in zero crowds by snuffing out the cams at your hot spot??
Betty!!....Not you, too??!!??
lol

 

Funny you say that... I jumped in the water in bortshorts for a few minutes Saturday afternoon in Belmar to cool off after playing volleyball, and was surprised by how much warmer it seemed than when i last surfed on Tuesday... still nowhere near warm enough to ditch the wetsuite entirely, but very tolerable floating around for 5 min or so (as opposed to MDW when i also jumped in between volleyball games and instantly felt like I was being stabbed with icicles while hyperventilating). Definitely was not low to mid 50s... i'd have said low 60s. So either it warmed up a lot overnight, or your statement above is correct.

#laboradors

 

Really fun again this morning. A hair smaller than yesterday, but cleaner.

Paddled into a nice 4’ wave and did a little mid face hack to stall. Shit threw over me and cruised in it for a minute before I bailed. I coulda made it too. That def would have the barrel of my life. I’ll be beating myself up over that one all day!!!!

Time to jet to work

 

Just got back to fl yesterday from pavones and surrounding areas.
I always feel like i surf better when I travel especially to the pacific.
does anyone else feel that way? btw its flat here

 

Yes. I feel that way. Quality waves will do that. Any good stories...how was cuz? Was Pavones good while you were there? River mouth take off to the rock??? Give us some deets plz. Yes it's flat (little wave on the horizon next couple o days....)

 

Thanks to the guys posting pics from Oahu in the pictures section. They must be the only people getting waves lately, right? Everyone else is getting skunked!

I took a little virtual surf on Oahu after seeing them! In my mind....

 

Definitely! It might also be because the waves are better there than what we (most of us) have at home!

Glad you got to take a trip! I got enough money for probably 2-3 trips right now or at least 2-3 weeks worth of trips, which is rare for me. I WILL take a trip before going back to work in September!

 

I didn't know how to duck dive proper until I surfed the Pacific. How wazzit?

 

And now all you do is quack quack quack!!!!

 

Thats funny because Im the same. I feel like I really learned properly in 8-10’ Cabo. Mine still kinda sucks.

Had a couple oh sh1t moments duck diving during that last swell down in Delray. Definitely had a 12’ set explode right in front of my face. Good thing I was on a potato chip.

 

Earlier last week when the tiny bump rolled through ,