who here has been surfing this week?

Niiiice shot!

 

Oh Burry not only are you swell infos biggest moron you are also swell infos biggest quack

Cheerio Burry you really are achieving greatness in this grand virtual reality

I encourage everyone to google image search Burry's profile thumbnail pic

 

Is that a selfie??

 

Damn dude you got a knack for finding sick little wedges lol

 

Little bump on the buoy. Checked it at 350AM this morning. Dark still. Could see some good looking lines but couldn't tell if it was super weak or not, which had me a little concerned with the high tide at 630. But i got some shit going on in my life right now. Nothing serious but just somthing that's bringing me down some. I needed to rinse that off. So i suited up and went. Mini sims. Leashless again. I'm digging it.

Was the first guy in the water by about 30-45 min. Sat in front of the rocks at first but it was weird. There were some gems. But most weren't. They'd stand up nicley but were a bit racey/closeouty. And with random rocks popping up through the higher tide....i decided to try my luck on the next peak over. That's when the morning crew showed up. All guys i enjoy sharing waves with. It was a blast. Waist high on sets, breaking fairly close to shore, and as they got closer ti sand they just got better, until you hit that top turn onto dry sand. I had alot of fun. It was strange too. When you first got into them before the inside sand section I'd go for a cutback or some drawn out carve. I actually felt myself slipping out a bit at times. For a short period high tide wave, they had alone juice. Or maybe it was just mini sims magic. Regardless, i had fun and was feeling better.

Got home to jump into the work truck, happy and stoked. My mood quickly came crashing down. All that shit that was weighing me down came back onto me, two fold.

I need to rinse off again

 

Glad you got some, Bass.

I too sarfed my simmons today, but it was awful. The tide was rediculuously high this afternoon and within an hour it was hardly breaking. Sad because I could tell there was still some juice in the swell. I reluctantly stayed out until dark with my buddy trying to find that one gem. She never came. We were surfing waist to chest high reform waves like 12 yards from the sand. Caught a few, but nothing to write home about. Least successful session I’ve had in some time.

The yearning for good waves is real.

On another note I’ve been watching the SoCal cams the last few days. Them dudes are scoring right now. Fun to watch on the lunch break.

 

finally scored some, been 3 weeks i wanna say. saw a lil pulse and the winds n cleanliness coming together late yesterday afternoon. thought it was a mirage, but hi tide being 8 it didn't convince much to get me out there. washout with a bud, bigger boards. crashing hi on the rocks, thi to waist. one board leashless took a fin to the rocks, coulda been worse. short rides. this AM was more friendly. LB with, another buddy got up with on 6th. waist to chest longboard heaven. lefts for days. one leg out, one arm out, on the knee...all kinds of fun ways to ride about. whew, my arms were spent. still loving my LB, feeling pretty pretty good

 

Thanks brotha , I appreciate that. I’m hoping we get some real nice swell sometime soon

 

I went for another distance paddle and caught about 5 knee slappers along the way. It was breaking close to shore on the last bit of incoming high tide. Conditions were glassy and it was a beautiful morning. I just wanted to get some paddling in and enjoy the water / sun a bit before work.

 

I went for another paddle after work. There was more swell in the water but the tide was killing it where I was at so it was having trouble breaking.

Only got a few short rides. Wind was chopping it up a bit too. Good being in the water though.

 

Got three solid hours in yesterday morning before work from about 5 - 8 am. Hit up the jetty for the first hour, and although there were solid chest high sets, the boys on the 11 foot lb's were out in force (I had my mini simmons). Was catching enough waves to be okay with staying there, but a buddy that i ran into was complaining and convinced me to go to kookatan. Got there around 630 and paddled out, but severely unimpressed with what I saw walking up to the water. Proceeded to take a chest high 5 wave set on the head, and thought okay, at least its breaking good here too. Spent the next hour and a half catching too many waves to count, with only one or two closeouts. Cleanest, peeling swell I have caught in a long, long time. Waves were lining up and going for 50-60 yards+. Breaking fast, but super rippable. Almost wished I had my sb. Had soooo much fun, and there was only one guy on a lb most of the time i was there, and he sat waaaay south of everyone else. Ended up stopping because I was worn out from catching so many waves. Awesome start to my day!

 

I was growing tired of surfing waist high shorebreak so when I saw this mini cold front pass through I couldn't plan a quick strike mission to the OBX fast enough. After looking around for about an hour I settled on this Pea Island spot. They weren't all perfect, but 2 or 3 out of say 10 set waves, were flawless head high spitting A frames. I enjoy days were you've got to pick and choose wisely. Not only were the waves super fun but there wasn't another person in sight and the water was trunkable. On a side note....just as I was getting to the OBX AND right when I was leaving to go back home I stopped on different side roads to take a leak and both times I saw a black bear. The first time I didn't have my camera handy but the second time I did. So that was pretty cool! I was frothing too hard to take many pre-session pics but the first one here was when the waves were firing the second one was at dead low when things started slowing down. I surfed a solid 4 hr session and I'm completely drained today but it was a much needed fix. Now back to waist high shorebreak again.

 

Got a few waves before work this morning. It wasn’t too bad, but not too great either. Knee to waist hi S and E swell mix. It was pretty gutless 6 sec period but least it looked pretty with the offshores.

Rode the Simmons, but today is a day I wish I had a log. Not only because it was powerless, but it was freaking COLD. Felt like high 50s again at around 5:30. I froze the entire time and got so stiff. What the heck is going on, it’s almost July.

 

Sneaky fun day today. Wind forecast changed last minute for today so i almost didn't go. But it was calling for waist high, tide would be low enough that it should be punchy and havea nice wall. Sometimes i like a wave that isn't super clean.... not a complete mess but somthing in between i can tolerate and have fun on. When i gave it the first look this AM around 4 it was dark. Always hard to judge. Don't know why i bother. Especially since I'm going anyway. But it looked cleaner then i expected, but smaller (which it's always bigger than it looks at this spot, even if you take that into account, its usually bigger). Whatever, iv had a rough week. I'm getting wet.

Once in the wateri was happily surprised. Waist high. Some were really weak. But then i got my first wave. Stood right up, nice rippable wall that actually allowed you to put some umph behind a turn. And i was all by myself. Stoking out. Some were short, drop in and basically come straight off the bottom into this second peak that would basically shut the wave down. Some you could bounce off that section and get around it and link a few peaks together to get a longer one. Got one were i tried to backdoor non exsistent barrel formed by that peak. Just having fun. Another guy paddled out and i was kinda bummed as i was enjoying being alone. But he was cool and we chatted it up. Nice guy and goodto surf with, calling each other into waves and what not.

Ever since the week long run of swell maybe a month or two ago, iv felt real dialed in on my standard 5'8 board. Been generating alot more speed on it. Things are just clicking. It definitely made today fun. I like the challenge of surfing a less than stellar wave well(or what i consider well)/the way i like to surf.

 

The tides have not been friendly to me this whole past little run of mini-swell. Hoping to log a few this afternoon. We'll see...

 

Yeah same here, although we haven’t had as much swell as you lately. But the little bit of “swell” that IS out there keeps getting shut down by high tide when I’m able to go. Last evening could have been fun if it was just an hour or two earlier. With 2.5hrs left till high tide it had already gotten swamped out. The beach also has a steep slant down into the trough creating backwash at my favorite spot, hope that goes away soon.

 

I think I jinxed my self proclaimed epic flat swell, only made it to Day 6. This could be the ticket.

Got out late am till 1 as the tide dropped. Surf camp to the left, surf camp to the right. A few of us found a slot between the two, and with the LB it was easy to catch the thigh to waist high long weak liners and get some 15 second rides, with cutbacks and up and down rollers off the lip stuff all the way to the sand, kids on the inside hooting. Lot's of fun, good vibes, life is goode.

As a bonus, my favorite sexy surfing girl bartender was out too.

 

Third day in a row of little mini swell, with short period a-framey conditions. water is close to 70 so its just shorties or trunks. Tuesday was a little bit punchier with some waves close to chest high. Yesterday was waist high, today the stiff offshores were grooming the swell into pockety a-frames and the hot sun made it the best of the week. Tides perfect....low early-mid afternoon, so late afternoon is mid incoming which worked out. From Today:

 

It was tiny by the time I got down to the beach yesterday, but the water was clear and nobody out. Still chilly, though... 3/2. But springsuite temps are right around the corner.