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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Yuuuuup!!!! Litttle beach club was Dooin it!!!!
I couldn't get on it Sunday, but my pale a$$ was on it like stink on poop first thing Saturday morning. Nothing crazy, I'd say 4 foot on the sets, slight sideshore breeze gave it some texture. The trough at my go to got all deep and funky, which translated to some funky sections...but there were some barrels to be had, and i got one left that just went on forever..rode it all the way into the shorebreak.
First session in nothing but trunks for me, and it felt great to have salt water directly contacting my skin. Gorged on grilled foods and beer at home, then safely lit some fireworks. Gotta love summer days like that.
Must be mo' beta on south NE shores. NH has been flat for weeks now; getting kinda boring for surfers and boogiers....
Yeah Barry, probly too much outta the south for you guys? Barry, I will pray to Quetzalcoatl and see if we can get you some waves.
In my dreams!
We've had a nice runne of summer surf the past two weeks here in SJ. Managed to get out on four different days all of which were waist to chest high, clean and fun. Plus the water is up above 70 at least until the next upwelling. On the downside, I saw not one but two sharks of some sort, each maybe 4ft feeding on something on the outer sandbar on Sunday morning. Everyone else in the lineup saw them too since they were splashing so much but other than keeping a little distance for pretend peace of mind, we just kept surfing at least until the tourist herds/hordes started to show up after nine am.
Simon Hetrick getting a nice turn on a Delmarva peak this morning. last couple weeks have been really consistent and small, since the solid Sunday swell a couple weeks ago. Super fun session, water just tropical temp.
Had some fun, clean, lined up summer swell the last few days. Thigh to waist high and just long walled up open faces all the way through. My favorite kinda waves (could've been a little bigger but it's July so I'll take it all day).
Took the 8'3" single fin out Monday morning. The one I was considering selling for anyone that saw my thread on it. PERFECT waves for it. Got a super long left, about waist high that had to be around 100 yds, that just kept going and going. Kicked out just as it closed out in the shore break. So much more satisfying when you get a clean kick out at just the right time.
Got a couple more decent ones, but it must've been about my 4th or 5th wave when I caught this really lined up right hander when I saw some grom drop in quite a ways down the line. I don't think he ever saw me so I yell but he didn't hear me (I guess). He was about 30-40 feet out ahead of me so I wasn't too worried about it. Certainly wasn't gonna give up the wave as it was mine anyways and it was a good one. So he's on some tater chip SB and pumping along so I'm gaining on him, but still not super close. It's all good until he goes to cut back, RIGHT INTO ME. He sees me as he comes around and his eyes get HUGE. Guess he really never knew I was there the whole time. We and our boards collide. Luckily both of us come up OK but I give him some stern words about looking before taking off and he's just standing there bug eyed and doesn't say a word before paddling off. I grab my board and look it over: Huge fin gash right on the rail. Session over.
Paddled out at the same spot yesterday to very similar conditions. This time on my single fin egg that I ride most of the time. Despite my session ending like it did the previous day, I felt great and surfed really confidently (something I struggle with a lot of times). Got some GREAT rides and was really feeling good and having fun. I wasn't thinking too much or over analyzing and just going for it. The lefts were really working, which I prefer, being goofy footed. Caught a million waves it seems like, many of them really good ones. It's amazing what waves with decent form will do for your surfing. Wave count is something I struggled with until pretty recently (only been surfing a little over a year). Now I have no problem catching my fair share even in crowded conditions.
Progressing has me so stoked. I feel like I'm becoming a halfway respectable surfer (even though I know I'm really not) which I guess means I'm about due for a completely ****ty session where nothing goes right. But that's why I love surfing.
Progressing has me so stoked. I feel like I'm becoming a halfway respectable surfer (even though I know I'm really not) which I guess means I'm about due for a completely ****ty session where nothing goes right. But that's why I love surfing.[/QUOTE]
great lil story. so true how great you can feel from "feeling it"
and also true how karmic the ocean seems to be [:
been surfing for 20 years and she always comes thru ..
and Mitchell, dude, always producing some sick pictures! props.
Hoping for some single fin action myself this afternoon...
cams looking promising. for an optimist that is...
Glad you are stoked...that can keep sessions that aren't the best in the realm of still fun. As for the collision (and don't take this the wrong way), if someone drops in on you and your pressing on the gas, then you are asking for it. If you are confident enough to press on him then you need to be ready to straighten out or cut back yourself to avoid the collision. You said it yourself..."he really never knew I was there the whole time"....that's just it, who knows what he's thinking. Sorry your board got gashed.
Logged a few little peelers this morning in LA... first time on the longboard in a while. Nice change of pace. Met a really friendly, beautiful young woman in the water too... which is nice.
Been pretty flat in wildwood this week but last week was filled with night sessions and good waves. Will post picks when I get back on Sunday
Gonna reserve spot underneath for pics
Reserved for pic
Yea stupid on my part. I kept thinking he was gonna kick out. He was a good little surfer so I guess I wrongly assumed he was more aware of his surroundings.
Sounds similar to my last sesh- the 3rd or 4th chest plus Sunday in a row. With the many, MANY smaller days in between, the sessions in the last few weeks have melded together.
The sets were bigger than I expected, and breaking right on through the high tide. The takeoff zone was a bit hectic, as all of them have been when it's not really pumping, but I was managing some respectable lefts, as another day in our pleasantly surprising early summer unfolded.
Between the onshore breeze and the hightide backwash, it started closing out and backing off. Only one of a few waves would actually open up. My first wave, take off on my backhand, bottom turn, and some trophy-girlfriend eurotrash D-list skank is bobbing right in my way, and with her spindly limb outstretched onto an 8-foot foamie, I had nowhere to go. Went right and paddled back out. Par for the course - thanks surf schools!
After catching a couple of forgettable crumblers, a little gem of a wave comes my way. A peaky, lined-up left that stood out from the rest of its warbly imitators. I took off late, almost pearled it, swung the nose hard, and set my line. I go for one measly pump and Douchey Mc-surf instructor drops in, blasting down the line. That wave held up better than anything had in that session. I didn't wait for him to cutback; I just bailed. Live to surf another ding-free day. Of course, after dropping out, I come up with someone bearing down on my head and manage to f*ck up his wave.
Between the foamboard buoys clogging the lineup and the blatant drop-in, felt more slighted than usual. If you're lining your pockets with money at the expense of other people's sessions, the least you could do is not drop in like a f*cktard on one of the few waves not littered with clueless corpulent consumers.
Anyway ... caught a couple more and went in for a reboot. A buddy showed up as the tide dropped back out, and we had a super fun session with no one contesting the majority of sets. Got out, hit the boardwalk bar, and drank and ogled till the sunset. Good times.
Today was especially bad with the human buoys. Of course after this little three day run of swell is officially over and the wind is already side/onshore by 9am, every Tom, ****, and Harry with a sun burnt water damaged long board shows up after hearing about the fun waves the last few days. Frustrating session.
Delmarva got a nice little pulse of south wind swell with west winds this morning. Fun little rights coming in until the guards kicked us out at 10