who here has been surfing this week?

Did the first paddle/run/swim of the summer the other day, felt good but sooo boring.

 

Sounds like my sesh today. Simmons and iv been going leashless with that board for awhile now.

Today was my first weekend surfing this summer. Looked dismal but turned out being really fun. Waist high sets. My spot is magic recently. Lots of rights and even at high tide the waves wall up and allow you to really surf and push your surfing. It got pretty crowded with kooks. That's expected. There were plenty of waves though and i got a ton of good ones so it didn't ruin the sesh. Little frustrating when you got guys on LBs with ankle leashes just letting there boards bob on the inside. Control the damn thing. But whatever. There was a photog out in the water. You don't see that much around here. He got what i think should be some pretty good shots of some of my waves.

Super sore now. Between the show Friday night and riding waves all the way to the closeout section on dry sand... my body hates me. Looks similar tomorrow but cleaner.

On a side note, i might be moving. 6 minutes from where I'm at now but no more apartment. House right on the bay with a dock in the back top fish off of. Pretty stoked on it. I should find out today if i got it. Bad timing with the wedding just under 3 months away, but we couldn't pass it up. Not surf related but im stoked on it.

 

Definitely worth being stoked on!

 

Flat again here in shitland. Been flat for 2 weeks now. Only good thing about that is no massholes coming up from Massholia.
Took a walk with the lady of the house early today; nobody around.

 

Surfing without a leash occasionally is good for you and creates good habits to make you a better surfer.

 

I’m staying in AC for the week with waves right out front. Good timing to get here with this little run of waves.

Sarfed yesterday and today in the am. Fun waist to stomach hi. Today was much more lined up and no wind. Surfed 7 hours in the last two days and I’m ready for mo.

Lots of sea critters out this morning. I wanna say it was mullet running and they brought in all kinds of bigger fish and dolphins. Had a couple breaching within arms length, they were not shy.

 

Another flat summer morning. It’s been a while so I took the SUP for a nice long paddle and chased around all the marine life, which there was tons of it. As Kanman said, tons of mullet running, millions I’d say.

With all the fish came the larger fish, with fins and teeth. It was VERY sharky today. No waves though, so that’s all the excitement I could get. The wind was almost calm with a light NW breeze, the sun was shining bright. Not a bad way to spend the morning, very relaxing actually.

I paddled around for like 2.5hrs, when my feet started to cramp I took a break to cool myself off with some water and then kept paddling. I was about 400-500 yards offshore and just soaking it all in.

So much life in the water right now, pretty awesome stuff.

 

Or a better swimmer....

 

True, fastest way to teach someone the importance of a proper duck dive....take away the leash!

 

...And not fkn kicking your board out when a wave closes out on you. That one really pisses me off.

Just hold on to your goddam board

 

Caught some fun waves for June this weekend. Had a sesh in dense fog with no wind. Surfed for 12 hours between Saturday and Sunday on various boards. Life is good.

 

100%. I learned to either kick out smoothly or if the section just shuts down you turn into that white water and grab the rail. Hell, i saved some poor kook from getting a board to the face today by holding onto my board with one foot. That's why all the other guys with leashes letting there boards flop and bob everywhere got me a little frustrated. Im no super sick ripper. If i can surf leashless without getting in others way, you can WITH a leash.

Ps- got the house. Puuuuuumped. Moving in a month. We literally found the place an jumped on it...4 days later it's ours. Gotta make your own shit happen. Wasn't even looking to move but when opportunity comes knocking you got to answer right?

 

Congrats brah^^^

 

I actually got out this morning. Small knee highs, glassy, no winds--went for a paddle along beach picking off little waves as they came along. Sure was nice to get back in the drink again.
Only total of 4 surfers out in the whole 2 mile length of the beach. Suits me just fine....

 

RI was moderately choppy fun yesterday evening. The water was shockingly warm compared to 3 weeks ago. Probably could have trunked it like a few people did. Funny, SI shows the water at 55˚ but it was way warmer than that.

 

Check MSW.

SI has had my water temps at 56 for several weeks now, MSW at 60. And I know it's not 56.

Maybe SI's algorithm thingy is not working properly?

 

The water was a little cooler than normal over the weekend, it was very refreshing because the sun is hot!

 

I have one day to choose from this week to git some. I was going to go today cause the tide/wind looked right. But instead I'm going to go with what's behind door number 2- Friday. I know it's border-line kookery to hang your hat on a forcaste 4 days out, but that's my choice. We'll see if it holds.

 

Sometimes you just gotta roll the dice, you win some you lose some!