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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
Wanna hug? I’m dying from this stretch of flatness!
Hell yeah. I saw the forecast said waist to chest.... but looking at the buoy i was thinking it would be bigger. And it was. Shoulder to HH for sure. Paddled out at 445, caught a few and was out by 545. The east in the swell was making a pretty good drift, constant paddling. Constant. Ended up cutting my foot and being as i had work, already got a ton of good ones, drifted down the beach, was tired from trying to fight it, and it was getting packed......i just called it. Went to work early. Im shot man. Work is tough today after that sesh.
I went a little further south to get away from the crowd.
such a good desperately needed session this morning in moco. Maybe a little left for the incoming tide tonight?
I made a strike mission to the OBX for the second time this month. A family friend had a free day and the forecast looked fun so we went down late Wednesday evening to be on it at first light. The winds and tide lined up nicely and we were greeted with perfectly groomed chest high barrels at daybreak. Surfed from 6:45 to 10:15 before the sideshore winds really picked up and blew it out. Getting waves is why we went but the whole Outer Banks experience is why I'm addicted to the place. If you put in a little time and effort you're guaranteed to surf by yourself in the most raw and beautiful environment on some of the most picturesque waves around. Even had we gotten skunked I still would of had the most peaceful day one could image.
How we were greeted
4th of July crowd
It had been blown out by this point but still beautiful
really fun this morning... Got in moco for a couple of hoours before work.
Chest high, light offshour hot weather. Great little summer swell...
Water was super clean and warm.
Just after first light to 10:30 I sarfed. So gooood.
Only had my simmons/fish for this trip but by god was it fun. Like the other guys said chest swell with some plus sets in the HH range. First time having the fishomons out in waves that weren’t tiny. I can say it got in early to place me under some cover ups and it flew on the lined up waves. Almost shoots too fast on the bigger stuff. Found myself having to do long drawn out cuts. I gotta practice slamming on the tail.
My girl is a trooper. Shot me all morning. Got an array of footy to sort through later. Looking forward to the log waves the next two days. I’ll be taking out the Hobie.
Same here but little smaller in SNJ. Bout waist to chest solid from dawn till about 9. Warm water. Saw a couple of what I think were small brown sharks.
Went back around noon for some mid-tide goodness on the fish. I had it to myself for DP and only two other guys out killing it on longboards at noon. However, the mayhem in town and on the roads was insane already. I had to drive back to PA since I have to work tomorrow and by the time I got here I was ready to kill. Some rips and a bourbon and I'm good again. VERY good day.
so tired at the end waiting for "that last good wave" was embarrassed leaving the beach..
Finally getting back in the water after a few months with too much going on with work and family. Prior to this week I hadn't surfed since I visited my parents back in April. Today was perfect. For some reason everyone else (almost) stayed home. Water was warm and waves were a solid 3 feet with loooooong lefts. Felt so good to get back in the water.
Mother in law visiting so I skipped the dawn session and had breakfast with the family, all the while praying I'd find something breaking at full tide. After some looking I came upon a pretty well known street which was completely empty. Climbed the steps expecting the obvious but instead saw a chest plus set roll in unmolested. I surfed alone for an hour and a half before two guys showed up, but by that time I was spent and happily exited.
One sequence from today on my barnacle...
Really fun morning. About waist high. Lower tide so waves were standing up some. Chose the 5'8 because of the low tide. Was really fun although the mini could of worked to. The left's had more wall, faster, and overall more rippable...but were shorter. The rights were a bit more mellow but longer. Still enough juice on the rights to get some good feeling cutbacks with the rebound. Lefts were all about that backhand top turn. I actually got two little barrels on the left's. Ok ok.... they weren't really barrels. It was more of a chandelier, but open enough to get your head covered and get that vision.
Just a fun day. Waves, vibe, weather... it was all pleasant. Crowd did get sort of thick but people are lazy and didn't work too stay on the peak. So it worked out nicely. After the work week, yesterday's waves, yesterday's work day (that was a tough one), and today's sesh.... I'm beyond shot. I need a whole day to sleep. But i won't. Gotta renew the passport for my costa trip then I'm thinking IPAs and some bar food at the place across the street from me.
You can sleep when you’re dead! Must. Keep. Going.
Hahaha its funny you say that. Im always waking up early, surfing, working, then going to shows or doing whatever it is i do. People always ask me how or why. My answer is always exactly that. I'll sleep when I'm dead
I guess you missed my other uploads.
And if you keep on "burning the candle at both ends", you will be dead very soon!!
Get some rest in-between all your activities. Suggested with only the best of intentions......
Surfed RI for 3 hours this morning. Trunks and rash guard temps are here to stay along with the seaweed. Fun little waves, but nothing like yesterday. I hope Toonces, etc... got out as the cams looked like a lot of fun. Left when the beach crowd started to filter into the surf area.