who here has been surfing this week?

Question: Were you sober when you thought that carbon fiber is a painted black line?? lol

 

maybe...or maybe it is perfect for the type of surf you made it for, plus you are older now. I find that more volume=more fun on smaller weaker waves. sounds like you like it so far...

 

some glassy little runners this morn. I opted for the 8 footer...again! So, I have had that board since 2005. I guess 13 years is the life expectancy for what was original fiberglass G5 FCS (layers began to crack last year). One finally broke off today when I did a huge gouge (actually it was a basic carve. This Haut board has been magical in so many different conditions. It is epoxy and is still in very good shape. Any suggestions on new fins for it? Super narrow squash and wider shoulder to nose.

The fin broke off at tab and one tab was totally gone, the other is still there with a rusty screw...should be fun getting those out!

 

Got here at noon wednesday and it has been pumping nonstop, lowtide midtide hightide incoming outgoing tide.

No end in sight.

I have the break to myself and as soon as it picks up all these locals show up like a switch was flipped.

They surf good here.

Like most good spots first light/twilight no one is out.

Buxton is unbelievable how much swell they get when all else is not.

 

Oh Barry still holding the position for swell infos numba one moron...no one can take that away from you

Now everyone prepare for Barry to regurgitate his goo goo searches on carbon fiber taping/cloth

 

Had some really nice waist high waves this evening, once the storms and rain passed through. Water is warming up too, but still have my 3/2 on. Went for a swim the day before in just my trunks and it was actually not too bad. Probably a couple more degrees before I’m out of this suit.

Pretty fun evening. I made sure to stay in there for a few hours. I have to work the next 9-10 days after tomorrow, which is something I have to do every July. So I probably won’t have any time to surf next week. Lame! Man, it was to get out though!

 

Nice 1 hour sesh before work Friday. No better way to start the day.

 

Got in the water this AM. Had a long and hard work week with this heat wave. Really just needed to get in the water. Conditions weren't ideal, but could of been much worse. Low tide, thigh high, winds around 15mph and from the NE (not offshore, but close). It was pretty junky but a few lined up nicely. I totally brought the wrong board. Rode the 5'8 good wave SB. It worked well enough, just would of preferred the mini or my 6'3 single fin. Caught about 5 really fun ones. Pump pump pump for speed then pick your spot and try for the biggest turn you possibly could on a thigh high wave haha. Been dealing with a weird hip pain. Must be hip aids. Went away but after a sort of strange laybackish turn it started feeling odd again so i called it early. Want to make sure im able to surf the next two days and further as forecasts are looking much better. Had fun though. Was much needed.

 

FINALLY!
Fun waist high swell...

 

4' junk today... moderate onshore wind. Chunky fun on the fish.

 

caught it after the storm passed at o club clean thigh high with a decent push. the light rain after the heavy storm was awesome.

 

nice 4 hour session at the hidden spot thigh to waste high well groomed sets with the water being so clear it reminds me of surfing over a reef.

 

Building A fence and tending to the garden in the mini nor’easter...plenty of swell. Victory at see...

 

Finally got some fun waves today. Knee - waist and clean. I rode the LB and a foamie. I had a couple friends and my wife all trying to catch waves too, it was entertaining to say the least.

 

Wtf with this bump from Chris?!?!? And that low. I deployed to PR to help with the final stages of Maria electrical grid recovery at the beginning of July. I had a slow day the other day and check the report and Vb actually has waves. Then I’m told abt beryl headed right for us (was completely unaware of it till Friday), and now I heard abt Chris. Damn, I freaking head out and the whole freaking east coast lights up in July. Wtf!!!

 

STFU and go fishing for needlefish.
Ain't I a sweetheart??
Which towns are you working in, Matt??

 

Pretty damn fun today. Bigger than yesterday, stomach high. Glassy. And brought the right board. Had it for the first hour- hour and a half to myself. The rights were tough. The glare from the sun made it hard to see. That's the biggest problem i got with LI. In the AM of you take a right for blinded. The sets would stand up then would eventually close. One of my best rights was basically a speed run just pumping until i saw that closeout section. Hit it but was a bit late and got thrown off the lip and into the flats. Best left was similar, but i could see so timing was on point and didn't get thrown. Tomorrow looks similar, then a day's rest, then looks like some waves above the waist/stomach high range. Yeeeeew

 

The crew and I surfed yesterday and today! What a ton of fun! Yesterday Valhalla also showed up. We had clean knee to thigh highs and I am guessing it got better after the waves went away at low tide. Maybe Val got some.

It was a lot less crowded today, what with it being Sunday and guys were at Church or sleeping in. After all, the waves were small, but gave some nice glide. A handful of the top dog locals were enjoying them,

Today was the first time in 14 months that I could tolerate more rides! It was SUPERFUN to be able to surf waves for 15 minutes solid, rest and then go at it again. The pop up is getting better to.

Eventually the ocean got kind of polluted by freshwater , lagoon seagrass, clippings, leaves. That was enough to chase us out. But we have a tankful of good memories to hold us.

 

Another small but fun day today. I caught a bunch of knee - thigh shore breakers on the foamie which turns out to be perfect for shallow water surfing in a crowd. It catches waves so easy! My wife barely uses it so I figured I might as well get my money’s worth.