early fog and high tide, but then a window of surf, which then became lightning all day since. people surf and walk on the beach in lightning here. not me
^^^nice Got a few days in this week. Sunday was clean/chest-high pure groundswell from due west (not the best for our beachbreak). Ultra-zippy down the line, but I forgot my quads, so I was stuck using twins w/trailer and didn't quite have the speed I needed to make a lot of them. Monday had a little windswell mixed in and was much more playful. Horribly crumbly "morning sickness" had me thinking about skipping, but fortunately paddled out anyhow and it cleaned up real nice for a couple hours. Tuesday was shoulder high/short period windswell. Onshore and sloshy, but makeable and surprisingly fun once the tide came up. Got my best roundhouse...and, later, a skeg to the leg which left a disturbingly black bruise. Lot of kooks out = super aggravating to see a lot of the best waves just let go by, unridden (or ridden so poorly, I couldn't even watch).
surfed for about 10 hours today. the thunderstorm at noonish gave us a nice break, and then we all went out again. super fun with head+ sets rolling through. a couple of barrels to go around as well now enjoying some pbr's and chilling. life is good man friday morning has potential
surfed for about 10 hours today. the thunderstorm at noonish gave us a nice break, and then we all went out again. super fun with head+ sets rolling through. a couple of barrels to go around as well now enjoying some pbr's and chilling. life is good man friday morning has potential
socal will get something, but it will be just a tropical depression swell. Full-blown hurricane swells are rare for anywhere north of LA county...the swell angle is usually wrong and the cold current kills anything that makes it into the window. Back in the 80s, I surfed LA everyday for 5 years and only once saw a solid overhead hurricane swell (maybe malibu was getting them, but I learned to avoid that place like the plague). I've lived in norcal for 20 years and only once saw a significant hurricane swell (like the full impact ones you get on the east coast)...but it was absolutely massive TOH+ (that one that sent bombs all the way up from tahiti in the late 90s).
Surfed last night. It sucked. 20 mph onshore/sideshore, shoulder high, 5-6 sec, and so mushy. Hard as hell to even make it past the wall of mush. Had 4 quick rides within an hour and a half of fighting current. I only saw maybe 3-4 other people out, and they weren't catching much. By high tide, it was just battering me, because I couldn't duck dive fast enough. Said f@ck it, and went to the bar for a beer and burger. Aside from the beer/burger combo, I would say last night was the worst session I have had in a couple months. That includes the long stretch of knee high crap a couple weeks ago.
Yeah, I like Mitchell's Delaware pics. They have a sense of "realness" to them. Almost like you're there. Mitchell, does Sturgis get jealous of your photos?
I fuggin hope so. This has seriously been the longest I've gone with out some good waves. June 1 was the last time I went rail to rail. Heading up to Newport early Saturday and spending the weekend. Anybody else??
really good first month of summer here already. waves again today. last summer was very consistent, too.
Fun waves on IOP last night. Thigh to waist, fairly clean at high tide. I was able to get in two hours worth of fun quick rides. I am sad we are moving towards flatter conditions for the weekend.
it was still pumping here early classical glass. no one around because the surf predictin' websites didn't tell them to go surfing
SOme leftovers lingering in the water yesterday. I started gagging in front of my boss and convinced him I was sick. No joke. I even considered puking on myself in the truck on the ride in but decided against it. Couple little 3 foot drainers made it all worthwhile.
There is presently a 'tropical disturbance" with a 10% probability way out east of leeward islands. Hopefully, it turns into something useful, first real storm??!!?? See Nat Hrcane Ctr data
Surfed a couple hours yesterday in some really fun belly to chest high waves. Kinda soft but had a few bowly sections. No barrels, like there were on Wednesday... which was killer, but suuuuper crowded. Yesterday was perfect for the fish, though (yea... a REAL fish). But there was a surprising amount of current... had to keep getting out and walking back down the beach. Water was tropical, the sun was hot... and nobody out where I was.
How abootz it LBC three days of running swell Sunday was good..barrels and some nice ramps and the spot..had to exit twice for lightning though Yesterday afternoon was decent soft and mushy..in retro spect I should have ventured a little further south into Ocean County for some bowled up shoreys but I was totally pumped on a bunch of DK front sliders The water yesterday where I was at was real dirty/chummy..lots of dead fish and bunker fish skipping across the water..hit the netti last night This morning was real nice no one out and glassy..surfed from abootz 6 am to 830 am with one other dude and rolled into work fresh out da brine
