It was like this christmases when you were expecting a Tyco race car set and got socks and underwear instead... but I still hung in there and rode like a billion thigh highs and caught four nice rails on the hidden half tide gems at one spot that works for like 20 minutes during outgoing tide. They got head high and fast... had a little scare at mid tide when a school of baitfish got pushed into the break behind me - I see the shadows and then get bumped pretty good - good enough to get knocked off boart. Didn’t see any fins though and no seal heads popping up so I just waded in the shallows for 15 and then went back out. Still got salty and rides.
Bout waist to chest high around low tide this AM. The winds lightened up but were still east/SE after yesterday's monsoon like nastiness. Lots of close outs but plunked some good ones. After lunch, I went down to Pumpmasterville (Wildwood) to visit a buddy on the beach. Closer to high tide, windy and onshore but it looked make able. It was chest to head high, doubled up madness. Surfed for two hours with about 12 guys half my age who had twice my ability. I caught only 4 waves the whole two hours but they were well worth the wait. Last wave, got caught in the lip and pitched over. Slammed my foot and split my big toenail. Trunks were at my knees. I came up laughing. Now, I'm 4 Red Stripes in and ready to hit the rack. Good stuff for what I thought would be an unride-able day.
Surfed a south protected break, with everyone else.... It is the summer though, to be expected. I don’t mind much, surfed with good friends and I got plenty of waves. Surfed for 5 straight hours of semi-chop/ semi-clean chest to head high. In the early AM at sunrise sets definitely coming in overhead. It was a wild beast. A couple dudes, including my buddy got bumped pretty hard. He saw a decent sized dorsal. And allegedly some dude got in a fisticuffs with the man in gray. Strictly heresay, but I wouldn't doubt it. Water was extra murky.
This jet stream dip and upper level low thing is an interesting phenomenon for us in mid Atlantic. Hoping for some spring like swell conditions...
Dawn patrol was fun today. Caught some good waves for the 1st time in about a month. It was really good to get some fun ones. A good wave would peel all the way to the beach. Stoked!
we had small thi to waist hi's Saturday. went out with a bud at lo tide that morning, chillin waiting for it to fill in at 10thE on folly - an unusual spot i'd say. lotta ppl in the water for a lotta nothing when i got out there. took my LB n an a 7'6 nsp for the dude, longest board he's got is a 7'. had some 30yd rights that were pretty fun considering the conditions of semi chop. was good to be in the water anyhow before hitting the road over the long wknd. we're getting our shot at waves starting today, getting bigly starting this morning. looking forward to hopefully a good week, some swuite swell
Yo Chavez. Returned to my roots in OCMD. Checked IRI early and it was a zoo by 630. Hit mid town and had a blast til 10 then hit the sponge for some self abuse til 2.
3rd Ave in North Wildwood. Maybe the second time I've been there in 20 years. Felt like I was sitting at a table at a wedding reception where I knew no one else at the table.
Fun and clean goodness this morning. Got out yesterday early, even though the conditions were chop/mushy I still had to paddle out. Its been so flat I couldn't pass it. On top of crap conditions, I was just off. Cant blame that on the conditions but the whole sesh felt off and out of sync. Today, mo' better. The wind was quiet, the current pushing east lightened up some and was enough to form mini points with rights stretching down the beach. 3 hrs and out before a majority of the hoards trickle down from their condos/rentals. Goode start to the day
Sunday was super fun and surprisingly clean on Delmarva after getting rinsed hard on Sat. Got some fun lefts and too many long rights to count, mostly waist to chest high. Was surfing a single fin egg that's rocking my world. Has enough speed to link sections and goes rail to rail like butter. Between kite surfers, paddleboarders and general kooks, it was hysterical to watch the zoo from the beach. All that's missing was the Benny Hill theme. I'll find my own peak down the beach instead of duking it out with the NSP crowd, thanks
not from what i read. One dude died down there, while two others died just a lil north of there. heard it was just a moderate current. must've been sumtin to make it in the news
Whereabouts you make tracks in water? Remind me to stay the hell away... I got knocked off my boart yesterday in grey rainy overcast chop so I’m already Willied out - and there’s been a bunch of big fishies lurking around
Wackjobs.... lol And here I’m thinking of doing a mini pilgrimage to LI... awesome. Just gonna buy shitload of them stupid bracelets and strap a dive knife to my forearm - maybe wear dayglow pink and zebra pattern my ledgerunner lolol
lil worse than semi chop but shoulder hi. took the 6'9 projekt board, def had enough lip to carry me into em. started holding onto the board too much on lift off, happens when i transition from a LB to a mid or shorty. easy paddle out on Electric/13th on folly, got crowded quick.lil drift to the south. lotta lefts getting me outta the crowd, then got my best ride to the right w a couple cutbacks all the way to shore. worth the DP journey this morning