who here has been surfing this week?

Thats fucked up. I don’t care who says what, your a dirty scumbag stealing people’s shit and deserve a broken face and then a broken arm. In that order. Sorry for you Bro’ that sucks the root.


I hate thieves

 

They peeled forever! Ether direction and just kept coming for a good two hours. I caught at least 30 fun rides and just enjoyed the water and surf and a normal surfing day... another 2-3’ just like this and it would have been heaven. Good to look forward to

 

Side note: just because it’s the first day of boart shorts and surf shirt doesn’t mean you can be a dumbass and forget to wear a rash guard ... oh my tingly, red raw balls. What an idiot.

 

Another fun AM sesh today with the usual suspects. At it again tomorrow. Best hit the rack...

 

This whole week has been a tease. Plenty of swell, but strong onshores kept me out of the water. That changed today. Still onshore, but light. It was pretty wonky. No point trying to line yourself up. It was all over the place. Some waves were fat dribblers while others were steep fast and throwing. Really weird. But man there were some hidden gems. I caught 2 set waves that lined up perfectly for me. Both rights. The first one was essentially just a speed run to keep up than a big bang on the closeout section. The second was a bit slower but still walled up which allowed for a nice hook right up in the pocket and a roundhouse before taking it inside and ending it like the first.

Got pretty crowded. One LB sitting way outside, paddling for set waves then bitching out making everyone inside miss it. Was getting a bit annoyed. Then this beauty of a left came to me. Steep and late drop, lip throwing.... grabbed my outside rail and pulled up to get some shade. Had a hiccup and got compressed so hard as the wave closed on me (did get a nice view though). Some how i managed to break through and ride out of it. But the damage was done. Tweaked my upper ass/lower back. Somthing that ws bothering me st work yesterday but got much worse after that wave. Caught 2 more than called it. Tomorrow's looking fun, i got to stretch this thing out because there's no way im sitting out.

 

Overslept and it was raining. Almost didn't go out this morning before high tide. Glad I made the effort. I have yet to regret paddling out.

 

I paddled out before 1st light on the LB at mid-high incoming tide. Wind was light out of the S / SSW. Swell was mixed up ESE / SSE and struggling to break. Lots of paddling and searching for a waist / stomach set wave to break through.

There was a full moon sitting just over the dune line, opposite of where the sun should have been. It was hiding behind a dark silk screen of storm clouds and layers of overcast for a while until the morning sickness wore off and then suddenly it was bright as could be and hot! Felt great on the skin.

I managed to pick off about a dozen or so waves before calling it at full high tide. Weak windswell can be frustrating but there are little nuggets to be had if patient enough.

There was a few that walled up as I was making my drop / turn from back on tail. I love that accelerating feeling of drive and flex on the center fin and along the rail when it’s locked in and in the pocket, dragging a hand along the face, crouching and leaning into it as it throws and closes out in shallow water.

I’ve been relegated to surfing shorepound on a lot of high tide days when it doesn’t lineup with my schedule but still want to get wet. I thought for sure I would have some dings to repair by now but i’ve been fortunate.

I hope things pick up and we get some longer period swell, we’re about due for something soon.

 

Go online and look up periformis stretches. Guarantee you it helps bunches. Also get yourself a lacrosse ball and do some point massage with it. Hurts but will unlock that deep muscle.

 

Fun sess this am. Three days in a row we get some decent waves. Ran into Mr. B yet againe.

Waist to stomach. Chest hi sets. Slack wind all morning. Surfed 5 hours, back and forth between my simmons/fish and hybrid. Good time, but feeling spent.

 

All forecasts called for 2-3 at The Rock today but I swear it was more like stomach to shoulder this morning. Water is like algae bloom green and warm AF.

 

That's exactly what iv been doing all day hahaha. Know of a bunch of good stretches for that spot. Use a lacrosse ball alot too. Great for the back after lots of paddling. Little tougher on the ass check but with it. Although i didn't know it was called periformis. Going to look that up and see if i can find any other stretches i don't know of. Thanks for the heads up Mr.

 

Oh and LIbro... same in my neck of the woods. It was not consistently shoulder range. But when those sets came through they totally were in that range with some good umph. Nice little surprise

 

It’s my go to stretch - the replacement hips require constant stretching and it completely got rid of any lower back issues and sciatic shit too. After I play hockey (I’m a goalie) it’s a great post workout stretch to keep from stiffening up too. Floods the muscle with oxygenated blood and keeps lactic acid buildup to a minimum.
Gotta keep our breathren healthy Bman!!

 

3 days of fun surf! Water was super warm this morning, no wind and perfect waves! Been stoked to surf with Kanman and the other regulars the last few days! Lots of fun trading waves without the agro paddle battles and such... just a mellow time and some laughs

Rode the old '64 10' LB this morning- was anticipating waist high but was surprised at some of the chest high sets! Caught a lot of waves... now very tired

 

It was beer belly high today. Not epic, Not horrible, and surfed solo. No friends, no acquaintances, and the winds were light and variable. It was Otay! Nice way to bring July to a close....

 

Super fun morning. Checked it early in the dark. Couldn't really tell what it looked like but knew it was surfable. Jammed out in the truck till the sun just started to approach the horizon then got on it. The lot was already getting crowded.

Picture perfect. Waist/stomach high, chest on the sets with a few rouge sets pushing the shoulder range still. Offshores kept everything nice and groomed. It was crowded right out the gate today. But knowing the spot pays. There's two main peaks where everyone sits. But i love my rights, and i know if you sit inbetween those two peaks.... it won't look like much is going on but when the sets come through your in perfect position for the right. Just got to be patient. First few waves were lefts. Started to doubt myself for a second and thought about moving. Then the stress started coming through and i got a bunch of sweeeeeeeeet rights. Nice steep drop, right up into the pocket for a big hook, fly out of it with speed and fit a roundhouse in or hit the end section. I was loving it and really started pushing hard on that hook. Found the sweet spot, pushed too hard on a few and had the board slip out, then dialed it back just a touch. Iv been really loving that turn lately. On the right wave when you put all your effort into it, feels magical.

The crowd got heavier and heavier but i was alright in my "in between zone". Then i had a little tangle with another surfer. Situation got diffused and was handled respectfully, but i could feel the tension and decided just to paddle down a ways where it was actually looking better with the tide rising and only had a buddy of mine on it. Surfed over there for a bit. Things were getting slower, but still really fun as the tide filled. I was shot. Im usually surf for 3 hours easily. But today i was SHOT after 2. Just went all out for that first hour and used up all my juice. Worth it though as that was when it was the best. Called it quits. Going to take a nap, get up and get some IPAs in me and finish packing up this apartment. Moving into the new house Wednesday. Stoked

 

Right!?! "Good tired!" Had the bonus of surfing all day yesterday. Three different boarts. Fish, log, and ultralight stringerless midlength... which was actually the most fun. I rarely ride that board, but every time I do it puts the biggest smile on my face. Super floaty so it catches everything early, and it's a thruster setup and super light so you can whip it around. Super fun when it's got a little size but the wind isn't cooperating or it's just not very organized. It's a "make somethin' outta nuthin'" kinda board.

 

Thanks again DP, I'm glad I was able to drive over and share some waves with ya! And thanks again for letting use that coil, that thing is sweet!

 

Anytime dude, it was good times, Glad you enjoyed the ride too!

 

The surf was pretty fun over the weekend. Went for dawn patrol Saturday morning. To my surprise I was able to ride my short board. There were some punchy chest high sets if you had patience. I even got a few quick cover ups.

After the lifeguards shut the surf scene down I headed south and found some fun empty peaks. I paddled out on my mini longboard so I could pick off the sets, sprint paddling between empty peaks. The water was warm and unusually clear. You could see your feet while sitting on the surfboard and then some.

I went out again for dawn patrol Sunday. Saw that the winds were supposed to be calm at first light. I found a shallow sandbar that was working. The surf was small but fun on a fish. The sets had a nice peak that would let you in and then the wave would run quickly down a very shallow sand bar. I caught the smallest barrel of my life haha. Crouched all the way down and tucked my head under the lip for a moment. I wasn't deep at all but it felt like it counts. A few of the vacationers watching the sunrise would clap when I caught a good wave lol. I hope you all got to surf this weekend as well. It doesnt feel like July.