who here has been surfing this week?

With as quiet as it's been with lack of storms, I just feel the next two months will be very active. So you should be getting some relief very soon my friend!

 

Dear Mr B2

Praying is very important, especially when your down in the sand with your son... praying!


Your pal and bff,
Mr B1

 

Mr. B1,

You should also play with him too - when you’re down in the sand.
Probably have more fun that way as well.

Your bestie,

Mr. B 2.0

 

Left at 5 am to go to outlets, against my better judgement. Looks all fun, but too fast. Totally not makable. Ended up driving back up to the cliffs since it was a negative low.
I was scouting from the top of the hill and ran into none other than Ben Gravy in some random ass back street of Point Loma. He had a white van, no duct tape.

Anyway, First wave at the cliffs, took an outside “set” all the way to the inside. Bad idea, ended up leaving a little bit off my ass and back on the reef. Fell directly on to dry reef. Rest of the session was awesome. And it must have looked good, I was the first one out and by the time I left there was 20 dudes.

 

So my little one is doing an intermediate surf camp this week - personally I dont think she’s ready because she hasn’t had any real reps or surfing time - flat as concrete for two months now. BUT the caveat is she’s gonna use her bort so that’s good but crash camp 2018 isn’t my idea of gentle with a nice bort. I also got bamboozled into loaning out my old restored Rusty Desert Island to my oldest niece... I’m having palpitations already
Lol.

At least I hope they have a few boat wakes to surf

 

Been flat as a pond out there for most of the month so far. Did manage to catch a few on the fat soft top Friday noonish, but I was the only one doing so. Conditions haven't changed and forecasted to remain the same. Water's been warm though...78-82 range.

 

small uptick in our flat spell. semi chop but a good punch to get ya down the line, along with some makeable lines. stood outside the car looking at it for like 15 min before i decided to jump in, nobody else really out there at the washout. took a big volume fisch n had some ok rides. lotta creatures out in the play, rashguard on luckily no jellies. glad to get sumtin, while still waiting on da season

 

small south windswell nugson tonights incoming tide...had to look around for something remotely ridable today. when the swell is this steeply south, and this short period, some spots dont even get a whiff. and the spot that in gets into often has a terrible sandbar in the summer. Yes..this is the spot that was GETTING the swell...that should say something about the spots that weren't!

 

I’d sell my ass on a street corner for that right about now Bruh’
Lol

 

Small, sloppy stuff late yesterday here, to.

 

Kinda fun on the longboard here in central monmouth this morning. Good would be pushing it, but compared to the last week or two it was a nice change of pace. Semi regular fairly clean thigh to maybe waist high sets, had one ride that was well over 100 yards and a couple more shorter but still enjoyable. Only downside was there were about 30 people in the water by 615 at the spot I was at. Oh well, beats not surfing.

 

If that was green I’d be doing the banana dance right now... but I’ll take it. Would sure be nice to be dropping into that mess on my new Roberts, but I’ll make the 8’4 fit hahaha

 

Nice, lazy session at Crystal Pier this morning. Rode my 9'4 Stewart HPLB.

Consistent thigh high peelers coming in with the very occasional waist high set. Managed to get a few turns and and couple head dips before going into work. HPLB works great in fast, dumpy surf.

 

Indeed, I love mine too!

 

My Mini Mal is awesome all around but it’s funny, my 9’4” Ledge runner Beal is a lot pickier for me... I have to be up way early and she glides like silk. If I get caught any bit late she wants to pearl if I’m not on that tail right away and turning. I’m sure it’s me, but that little red boart is so forgiving it’s a blast... can concentrate more on the ride than the start.

 

Fun little session on the edge of an ACOE project early this morning with the recently recovered dog from the other thread. Knee to waist and soft but clean.

Even though the board was just gone for a day, appreciate it more than before. Got to make something else soon.

 

I HAD A COUPLE OF SESSIONS THERE EARLIER THIS YEAR. LONGBOARD ACTION. I WAS SURPRISED HOW FUN THE SANDBAR WAS THERE. IT WAS FUN OUTSIDE THEN REFORM ALL THE WAY TO BEACH ON A SMALLISH SWELL. I HAD NOT SURFED THERE IN OVER A DECADE...PRETTY CHILL SECTION OF EC. I JUST REALIZED I AM YELLING...DID NOT MEAN TO YELL...I AM NOT RETYPING...

 

LOL!! Too funny, brother...!! What a cast that was...

Cleaner surf today... ran around on the mal. Which is about as much fun as you can have in knee high surf.

Well... maybe waist high on set.

 

Was planning an afterwork surf; SI let me down...settled for a swim.