who here has been surfing this week?

My simmons was made for days like this. Super fun sess after work. Small but punchy south swell. Some really fun “against the grain lefts.” I think I’m using that term correctly. Knee to waist high. Just one of those sessions where everything lined up right for me. The offshores made it really clean. Kept paddling back out for more. Good times with good friends.

 

VB...

 

Small crappy unrideable waves here. It should be small crappy and rideable on Saturday morning so I got that going for me.

 

I may wear my helmet.

 

Our Saturday looks to be bout thigh high but with an incoming tide starting around 8AM. Winds may be semi offshore (W/SW) but that could change depending upon how low the incoming cold front sinks to the south. That's all I got coming my way when I have any free time over the next week.

 

Sometimes a good thigh high with offshore is a fun day... hoping for ya. I’d be stoked if this makes some swell but the problem at this place with wind swell is it gets piled up and messy.

And that will be Five Star dining after two months of flat for me! Banana dance may ensue - feel free to imagine THAT majestic display.

 

I swear to god, when it's a lake out there, Mitchell will find surf!

 

and a condom because well,,, you know

 

I caught about a dozen knee - waist high waves this morning on the LB. It was glassy with very light to calm wind. The water felt cooler than it has been lately.

It smelled fishy and there was lots of action in the water. Lots of fins in the distance, some dolphins, some sharks. The reef usually has some sand packed on it but today it was totally exposed and I smacked my feet and fin off of it a few times.

I had it all to myself until the end of my session when a couple of foreigners speaking jibber jabber paddled out right next to me. I caught a few more and went home / work.

 

More knee - waist weak windswell on the LB after work today. It was kinda bumpy and mixed up with light - moderate onshores. Kinda meh.

 

Been pretty flat and like soaking in a bowl of fish broth here too. Went out yesterday before work. On my way out again this morning.

 

I caught about a dozen or so knee - waist glassy sliders on the 8'1" McTavish this morning. It was pretty fun for what it was. I checked the reef spot I usually surf but it was barely breaking so I checked a little further North at a similar break but it was bigger there and lined up pretty good. Not the longest rides but some fun ones for sure.

 

The waves blew cocque this morning and then the winds started howling out of the NE. I almost ran over a big 20+ pound gobbler on Rt. 9 this morning. Dumbest turkey I ever done saw. He wouldn't move off the road until I got out and chased him away. Bunch of dumb ass tourists driving around it like it was a trash can blown into the road.

 

Only a couple more months until I move to Central FL. Glad I didn't have to be there for this summer, sounds like August has sucked

 

quick ride out on 8th st E on folly. plan was to go in right where the surf camps were, start some sht. drifted a bit north, took out the 6'9 loehr. nothing too memorable in the waves, cpl waist hi's but nothing down the line. felt good in the water tho, been a while

 

Some soft longboard waves yesterday morning. wind was offshore until 11 then side/onshore breeze came up and destroyed it quick.

 

I was out that morning (Friday) in SBVA, just south of you. Found a spot with very clean thigh high rights. Surfed for an hour before low until about 2 hours after (~10am). not epic, but very fun. Was actually able get score some waves (mostly knee slappers) 5 of the 7 days I was there, even though it was relatively flat, just had to be at the right spot at the right time (and needed a LB or SUP).

As a funny side note, on my way out of town Saturday, I was getting gas at the 7-11 at the corner of SB Rd and Upton, and two guys were loading up their fishing boat with gas/supplies and were discussing the bad juju of having bananas on board (or even in ones stomach). One of the guys looked over at me, as I was smiling, and I said, "Yeah, I heard about that on SwellInfo", (reference the boating tread).

Meanwhile, back on cape, the shark hysteria is at a peak...

 

Was out yesterday in Northern NJ. Some sizable North bump coming through (around 4'@6") and mixing in with some smaller ESE swell. It was actually pretty fun... maybe waist high, but there was a ton of organic debris in the water (logs, leaves, branches). Water was warm, though!

Hoping for some waves this Wednesday evening

 

What? You don’t have a surf helmet?