who here has been surfing this week?

Fun, mid-AM to noon today. Better than Labor Day which had been about the best I'd seen all summer. Clean, mostly waist high with plenty of chest high sets popping up for good measure. Long rides too. Water temp almost like bathwater.

 

Was hoping to get some surf this weekend.... yeah, no. Big and blown out

 

#metoo

 

Big, nasty, choppy and blown out here too... wind is weird. A few regulars out trying but no one getting any rides... and it’s a 75yd walk out/paddle out through head high foam wash and rip.
Gotta work anyway

 

Went to garbage on the longboard. The beach was a little too low and too fast.

Paddled our into the mist. Only 6 guys on the peak. I was sitting a little south of the pack, was picking up the bigger ones.

Got this one. Made my morning, fuck my whole summer. First barrel on my 8’0. Legit to. Just cruised into it, probably 3’, and I see its gonna just pitch from the top to bottom. I couldn’t have been any better positioned. Sliding bottom turn, scoot up to the center of the board, crouch and grab the outside rail (I’m going frontside), lock eyes with this guy paddling out just giving me the biggest grin. Pop out the back and everyone was looking. “Fuckkkkkkkklk meeeeee” so loud. Dude told me I couldn’t have ridden that wave any better.

Rest of the session was fun, but that waves gonna stay with me for a while.

 

Rhode Island was smaller than forecast but still a fun morning surfing. Got some good rides, had some lulls. Water warmer than the air but it was fine in the spring suite. Some dudes still trunking it, other dudes in their hooded suits.

 

Man o man was today fun! I rode the 6’ M-80 again, but switched it back to a thruster setup, and I’m glad I did! My buddy came over from the Gulf and he rode his SUP.

Early on and most of the morning there was no wind making conditions pristine. Tide was a little deep at first coming off high tide, but the sets were still breaking through.

Size was chest - head high with the occasional overhead set way outside when the tide dropped. Lots of rights and lefts. The rights stayed open and were ripe for some roundhouses off the lip. The lefts were speed runs with some carving turns.

More feeding frenzies with lots of mullet running. After one of my best waves I paddled back out and a school of them came flying out of the water as something chased them and they ran across my legs and back. Freaked me out but nothing I could do about it. Lots of big fish hitting these pods and I was just praying I didn’t get mixed up in that and get bit. Luckily nothing happened and I went about my business.

Later in the afternoon the onshore seabreeze kicked in and started to put some texture on the surface but still really good out. I was exhausted at this point so we called it.

I can’t ask for much more than what we got today. It could always be bigger, but it wasn’t necessary with such good conditions.

 

Incredible day of east coast surfing! I slayed 10 Hatteras Island sets. One of the top 5 best sesh' s I've ever had. Was just in the zone, making everything. Stay safe and good luck in this storm!

 

Got sat morning super fun at Assateague

 

Definitely bigger out there this morning - chest high plus - but a bit choppy and disorganized...not the "green and clean" per SurfLine and SwellInfo.

Noon update: It's cleaned up since this morning. Waist-chest. Looks like fun.
But took day off from office to oversee contractor work at house. Must get done before Flo hits here.

 

Well, 2018 wave tank just got a little bit fuller this weekend. Surf was real good this weekend as Mr Gnarley illustrated. Felt good to get some juice after last weeks fun run on the LB. Rode my 6'2" and had a ton of fun. The NE wind swell mixing with Florence made for a variety of waves...now it's time to prepare for the flooding that is about to ensue from Flo. Stay safe errrybody!

 

Went over there to catch it around the low with a little more swell. Got there just in time for the wind and rain to kick in instead and watched the beach get shut down. OC was ok that morning, but sounds like early AI would have been the better call.

 

10'-12' VAS

 

Had a similar session in central Brevard. The tide was too high early morning but when it went out it turned on! Tons of surfers but the field was so spread out I got nearly every wave I wanted. 4-5 turn waves with lots of that groundswell power. The 5' 7" puddle jumper feels like magic and I think I'm gonna take it in the bigger stuff since it rolls in and planes right away on the take off.

 

Yep. got there at 7 and surfed the south end of the state park. A bit fat at first but on the larger sets it was fine. Got out around 11-11:30 when wind got on it too much.

 

I missed my sat window because I had a bday party I had to attend in PA.

 

I'm seeing a brief lessening of the winds on Wednesday down here and drop down to under head high. High tide around 10:30. I may have to give it a go.

 

Exactly what I was going to do but didn't. Overthought the whole damn thing (tides, swell, wind, rain). Glad you got it while it was good (AI was almost eerily quiet Fri evening). Mediocre OC morning was still better than nothing at all.

 

the dead dolphin in the water was a bit eerie though

 

It’s looking like we may have Ridable surf until next week if the winds give us a break. So far it’s been big at buoy but blown out chop crap onshore.
I could foreseeably be testing wailing a certain white rocket ship on tomorrow afternoons outfoing tide... and supposed 6’ at the buoy and 12 second periods. I’m in a pretty crappy funk (post surf trip depression lol) so I could use a double dose of stoke