who here has been surfing this week?

Yeah im dreading returning from 9 days in Costa to 5mm suits.

 

Did that over summer during sesh with buddy - I brought two borts and let him run one. He was betting early and came out to let me know and this dude who was just standing in the breakwater watching us surf asked me if he could use my RB Cougar. Seemed like a cool guy so I said yes. Turns out homeboy can surf and knew my shaper and loved the board and had a blast. Shared stoke is the best stoke

 

No lie! I was so stressed out and tense for the first part of my weekend down in Long Island - don’t do well out of comfort zones - and then it just went away and I had the best time with my daughter and the surfing was picture perfect, people were great and it was stoke city! Then you come home and it’s mayhem all over again lol.
That’s depressing

 

I got out this afternoon for a quick session after lots of job searching.

Waves were chest - head with OH sets. Wind was onshore but not too bad. A little bumpy but wave faces were pretty clean. Low incoming tide made for a tough paddle out at times but with patience a little lull would happen and let you back out.

1st wave I schwacked the lip over and over with backside roundhouses. 2nd wave was similar. The rest were a mixed bag of lefts and rights that didn’t offer as much real estate, but still had a nice drop, bottom turn, and little bit of a section to work.

After a dozen waves I was already spent and called it, just a bit tired from the last few days.

Tomorrow morning looks fun. I’ll jump on it before my interview. The next week looks seriously fun, and BIG!

 

got back on the coast yesterday. took the 7'2" Angulo out by the folly pier. didn't catch sht for a lil bit but then got my act together on the south side of the pier. had a lotta lefts, semi chop chest hi. me n this one guy was killing it, he rode a 6'8 single fin Hobie. good bit of drift, had to walk back up about 5x. I'll be stickin around during this storm, so lookin forward to some more swell

 

Wow.... I had an amazing session this morning. Set waves were consistent in the shoulder / head range with bigger sets overhead and just perfect open faces on mid - high incoming tide.

As the tide got deeper it got less consistent and finding a good shoulder was more challenging but not too much of an issue.

The local crowd was out but everybody played nice and spread out. So stoked! Now time for another another interview.

 

It’s 6’ at 7secs windswell at the buoy so it’s coming in ugly and big. Someone good would be riding those HH/OH and shredding! Me? Not til the wind shifts and tide starts going out haha
I enjoy surfing not getting mauled - BUT this afternoon l hopefully will be getting RBBT wet. Screw it - jump right the hell in I guess

 

That looks gnarly. Clean enough....i get that'd be amazing.

Just got back from a sesh. Worked out east all day and got home early. Winds were light so i went. Chest to HH. Low tide. Clean but wonky. Felt great to get into juice! Didn't surf great. Never do after working. But i don't think this swell is going to pan out for us so im happy just to get in and feel that power. My ass aids is still bothering me.

Might get a chance tomorrow AM. It's looking wishy washy. Glad sponger of you guys are scoring! Stay safe southerners!

 

Super fun afternoon. No Florence energy yet, but that E groundswell from the pressure Ridge last weekend is still lingering and chest high up here. Good luck to all in the path....looks horrible from a flooding perspective.

 

i didn't surf today,but I went to the beach after work and smoked a blunt with a coworker and I did a little trash pickup.was walking and almost stepped on a needle,and it looked like it was dropped their yesterday.it was pretty bad.i used 2 sticks and picked it up and threw away.made me feel a lot better lol,fukd up u know ppl are barefoot on the beach.the tide was super low

 

Saw a video on insta a guy shooting the pier at folly today

 

Shotting.

 

Nate Garza 5th Street Ocean City this evening.

 

still pretty mellow at folly. waist hi breaks for the DP session off 3rd E. still going left. getting crowded. was out yesterday evening around 8th E and it was supa crowded. ppl snaking waves all around. 30 min of that n i decided to find solitude at washout for the last 30 of sunset. not a lotta water there, but still waist hi compared to maybe chest hi at the better spots. i'll prolly pull the folly card tomorrow morning then wait to see what happens with this storm before riding again

 

Got out for about an hour after work yesterday in moco... not super clean but plenty of swell in the water and some very fun rides. first test for my newish longbort (9'10" christenson bonneville) in any sort of real waves and it worked magnificently. Shockingly quick and maneuverable for how massive it is. Pretty much in love. (I still haven't gotten around to performing delam aids surgery on my other bort, the rare occasions i had a free day stuff kept coming up around the house that was more pressing, eventually went with the expensive quick fix cause the lack of a well-functioning longbort in summer was killing my stoke.)

Waves were a pretty mixed bag but pretty damn fun considering how fucking flat it's been for the past month and a half here. Chest to head high, some clearly overhead sets, a little disorganized, a lot of closeouts, but there were a few, both rights and lefts, mixed in there that lined up beautifully. Several fun ones all the way to the beach.

Got absolutely worked by an outside set at the end of my session, was paddling back out for one last wave, got caught in no man's land, thought I could make it over, didn't, and got absolutely pounded. Longest I've been held down in a while (prob only 10-15 sec but felt like much longer). Had a couple seconds to partially catch my breath and then took 3-4 more right on the head, ended up about 10 feet from the beach when it was all said and done. Welcomme to fall I guess, haha.

 

Fun long lines on Delmarva last night and again this morning. A bit bigger this morning - like chest shoulder - and no wind. Glassy conditions. This pic from last night after i crushed a rail and had to get out early.

 

Not that good and real foggy. WTF?

 

This 5:30 a.m sesh failed on takeoff - blown in mush, mixed with big sets that ganged up at the beach, side shore chop and fog/rain/wind mix... not what I was hoping for for first run with bort.
Regroup and charge this afternoon with good tide.
Swell is there though - just have to find it I guess.
Kid said Egypt beach was HH and glassy before school. Screw him haha

 

There’s no lie about it - you could find surf in a Wendy’s drive thru. Congrats!

 

Try outgoing mid - low tide.