who here has been surfing this week?

Yep. Best tide is mid - coming and
Going. I knew that but had the bug to try anyway lol. This afternoon it will be mid/outgoing so I should be happy
Really muggy and weird weather today -

 

Got the Juno Pier southside peak with 30 of my closest friends on the incoming tide earlier this morning. It was waist high and clean, glad I took the LB. Got a few long ass glide rides and it was getting fat with the high tide so cutbacks were required. Fun session.

Tomorrow should be big enough for the shortboart. Or the at least the fish. Thank goodness it's finally starting to wake up down here in the dirty souff. Life is goode.

 

Almost forgot (must have blacked it out on porpoise), on the best wave I caught, some guy on a LB dropped in, I was going backside (left). He was going almost straight LOL. He ignored my hoot. The nose of my LB went under his boart near the middle, and as we glided together down the line kinda sorta, he grabbed me for a second, said "sorry dude!" and then let go. It kept me from falling, and somehow our boards disengaged (this sound so gay), and I got back into the wave, and got going down the line and banged a few weak off the lips and a nice cuttie and then nose rode it the rest of the way to the beach.

Never had that happen before, and I think I will now take a shower.

 

Got out yesterday during my 1-hour window of opportunity. It kinda sucked. Was glassy and had nice size all morning, then the wind went sideshore, the tide hit dead low, and it starting closing out. Didn't get one good wave before I had to leave. Hours later, the wind died, the tide started filling in, and it got fun again.

Today it's looking good again, and I'm stuck at work until 7pm.

FML

 

Local forecast was completely wrong and it SUKKED THE ROOT. Big swells mixing in and piling up on slower SE wind swells and just making a total shite show... compound that with me in all my clumsy glory attempting to learn the Roberts. In 4-6’ 5 sec period swell/side chop with a good 15 mph onshore wind.
I’m a total beanbag. Looked like a total moron and got pretty frustrated until I got out after two hours and saw what I was trying to surf. As a stone beginner on that board. Jackwad. But I got a lot of reps and attempts at paddle ins, which were actually pretty easy once I had sweet spot locked in. I can duck dive like a duck, and it paddles prett easy for sinking so much. I got up on waves probably half dozen times for little scraggly “rides” but mostly just completely jinked up foot placement and pop up. But hey, I surfed and water was warm and I’m ok

 

Well... Ive been surfing a lot a lot. got scared a few times , amazed my self a few times and pushed the boundaries often, Theres really to much to tell,

 

There is surf up and down the coast this week...every day....i just happened to shoot a picture of it.

As far as drive thru's go, In and Out Burgers usually has makeable tubes

 

Paddled out tonight after work. I got a workout fighting the current but that was about it.

 

Haven’t had time to be on here much lately. Even tho this swell hasn’t been perfect I’ve gotten a few fun days out of it. Got one barrel on my new hp borte from soulrider. I’ll have to post about the new whip sometime. I love it. Here’s one from Tuesday.

 

Looking good out there dude! No surf for me today, i'm studying for my insurance exam. Looks like that's my only priority for the next several days till I take my exam. Then it's out into the field to make some money. I may squeeze in a 1hr DP session in over the weekend but that's about it.

 

Thanks bra. Get it done. Sometimes life takes over and there are other priorities. The surf will always be there in the future.

 

No logo? No stringer? no problem...

 

2 days of small, but fun ground swell. Couple hours before work does the mind some good

 

snuck past this one, took the next on the head. Couple of bombs coming through. Some of the sets gave me the willies.

 

Awesome

Newport?

 

What's the plan for the upcoming days young fella? No clean up till Wednesday from the looks of it. then tiny.

 

Yesterday it was chest to shoulder high liners with long lulls. Found a spot that had a spread out crowd and a shallow bar, and got into a real nice rhythm with my 6'6" NA egg. It's fast and works great in clean weak surf.

Today was a tad bigger, still kinda weak, maybe some HH peaks at the Pier with a big crowd, but I went out and got a few nuggs. Long ones. With lots of turns and cutbacks and more turns. Maybe this evening as the tide drops, it will be steeper and more shortboardable. The NA Pete Dooley egg works great on this soft stuff. After a few days of steady waves, finally feeling surf fit againne. Life is goode.

 

Rode my Ricky carrol 6'8 mini mal xl in chest high waves this morning from just before sunrise till 9 ish then switched to the walden 9'2 you had to be in the right place today fo sho

 

Going flat fast down here. Checked it on the way home (bearing thai food - nam sad and crispy duck with basil and chili sauce and fried bananas drizzled with honey - medium spicy). Waist high sets few and far between.

Revelation! I live too far fucking south.

 

Or not far south enough?