who here has been surfing this week?

Got wet today. Swell dropped quicker then i was hoping but still a decent wave, size wise. Chest high, some pushing shoulder. Dead low tide. Winds were lightish but had to much east in them. It was doable but messy for sure.

These things would jack up and break in knee deep water. A little sketchy considering the slight texture and lumps on the wave face. I played it safe mostly because of my hip/leg/ass injury. Im thinking i got a strain/sprain or something. But there's waves, weddings in a week then in going to CR....i don't got time to let it heal so im just dealing with it. Got a couple really fun rights. All were similar. Come off the bottom into a top carve/snap or a cutback. I was babying it a bit due to the injury. Then repeat until it was over. The inside was rough. Water was just ripping over the bar. Duck dove into sand and got worked on one paddle back out.

Didn't stay out long. Got a few good ones, leg ws bothering me and conditions are deteriorating so i called it. Plus im covering a on call shift today so I'm working. Trying not to over do it so i can surf again tomorrow, next week, and in CR.

 

Slightly hung over, I paddled out this morning at low incoming on the 6’4” Flashback Fish.

Waves were waist - chest with a few a little bigger. Conditions were absolutely perfect, lined up, glassy thumpers. I picked the right boart, because it ate those waves up and I was catching everything.

I rode it as a quad with TC Aqualines and I found it wasn’t loose at all like the quad felt in the 6’ M-80. It must be the swallow tail the slightly wider outline. Anyways, it was the right equipment for the job.

 

Finally got wet after a few weeks of chasing a work deadline (thus dry for me). Boss gave us yesterday afternoon off and even though I was not feeling it, mostly from lack of sleep, a buddy persuaded me to meet him at one of the goto spots. A nice swell was pumping in, sun was out, the onshores layed down, and the water was warm, an added bonus - trunkable. So just me and my buddy, a goofy footer, shared a peak to ourselves, he mostly going left, me right. About shoulder high+, incoming tide, with inside bowl section jacking up with speed overhead in the trough. I was a refreshing sesh and some of the best waves in a while. Doesn't get much better than that.

 

Fun couple hours this morning north of Boston- 2-3’ and pretty glassy. Still spring suite temps, not too crowded, hoping for more tomorrow...

 

Tomorrow is looking SWEEEEEEET
Mr Wave... all down the coast. And water is still trunkable!

 

My crew took me surfing this morning! It was the end of the Florence swell, so it was knee to thigh high with waist high sets coming through. The water was glassy and so clear you could see the manatees not too far away, playing. It was the first time this summer that the water was warm! Almost like a bath tub.

The paddle out was easy and the waves were forgiving. But, last week I had a dickens of a time with the legs, teetering on a trip to the ER. So, It was the voice in my head this morning that was the real challenge. The fear that the body would completely fail and do what It wanted to do, not what I wanted it to do. But there is the bigger fear of losing surfing that kept me going.

And I was richly rewarded! I scored four waves, and two were keepers. I was thrilled I could still pop up without going to the knees—Victory! And the biggest thrill besides the wonderful sensation of the glide, was being able to keep the knees bent pretty low in almost a crouch and absorb the small bumps. Not being able to squat on ground, this is truly an ocean miracle!

Sure, I have to spend as much time sitting in the chair as in the water, and sure I will never be able to surf as I did, or as you do, but I swear the stoke is just as powerful!

 

Betty, your a legend and a inspiration. For real. Your the best

 

Not on this here surf forecasting site? 1-3' could be fun enough at the right tide but kinda small. MS likes your chances better though than SI.

 

It’s funny but with the right wind and tide and period those end up waist high chest high at the beach and long fun runs. And your it’s positive on The other SI as far as stars rating - a 1 star or better usually means fun LB at the least... maybe I’m just being overly optimistic though lol

Besides that, now I’m gonna be paranoid watching out for my daughter in the water for a few surfs at least -

 

Wind died down enough late yesterday afternoon to get out and wash the day off. Water felt like it was 80 degrees. Took out the fish and slip slided a few bowly peaks. Needed that.

 

yea...the water was warm but that air was a bit cooler than its been. I noticed some dudes smarter than me were wearing some rubber. I got chilly after an hour or two skinning it late afternoon yesterday. Some fun ones coming in for sure. from around 6 p.m.:

 

Small victories. That's what today is about. Got up early and headed down. Waist- stomach high, clean, still low tide and super shallow but there were makeable ones. Got on it.

First wave was a left. I made the decision to ignore the left's today. Due to whatever i got going on in my leg/hip whatever. Atleast when it's steep and throwing. That backside body position on a steep drop puts alot of strain on the injury. So i stuck with the rights. Which still hurts but i can use my front leg more i guess. I don't know. It just hurts less.

Caught a few fun ones, picking and choosing the right ones. Then the wave that has me stocked came through. Waist high, dropped in and went into a drawn out cutty, came out of it and faded high, dropped back down with speed and eyed the oncoming section. In my mind i knew i shouldn't go for it, this is the type of thing that could potentially sideline me officially. That waves had punch and i had speed. This was going to have some umph to it. But my body just reacted to the wave and i banged that oncoming section hard and rode out of it.....PAIN FREE! Small victory. It was the first wave since injuring myself over a month ago that i surfed how i would if i wasn't injured. Pumped on the wave, pumped on the lack of pain from a smack like that.

Kept surfing but the rights were getting more sparse and there was this backwash ramp thing going on that was wreaking havoc on my leg so i called it.

Beautiful day, fun waves, I'm stoked. Yeeeew

 

Just had one the best sessions of my life this morning! I saw the swell came up over night and was pumped to get out there.

Long period swell, glassy with light SW side / offshore wind, with waves in the shoulder / head high range with overhead sets that were nice and lined up.

At dead low there were a few closeouts but still managed to find a few shoulders, both lefts and rights. The rights stayed open longer and were the better of the waves.

As the tide filled in some it got better with less closeouts and more open shoulders allowing one to do whatever they hell they wanted.

I have been surfing at an all time level for myself lately. Good surf will do that. Im not ripping by some people’s standards, but doing a roundhouse snap off the lip of an overhead wave feels like busting a nut.

So glad I didn’t stay home. Now time to study.

 

Today was a lot like yesterday but a little choppier. Still some great rollers if you waited. Less people out but more SUPs. Beautiful morning though.

 

Bassmon, you’re a really good writer! I was so right there with you.

 

Super fun this morning until the tide filled in too much and it got too deep. Warm water... just a couple of friends sharing a peak.

Locals' Summer.

 

So many barrels today!
Went to Oceanside for first light. Was graced with these and only a handful of guys for about an hour. First 3 waves were all barrels off the takeoff.



Ended up leaving by 8. Ran into ZaGaff. Got back to mission beach and took the longboard out (solid 4’ on set) and got a perfect sand bottom barrel. Snuck out before the oncoming section, then proceeded to get worked!

Drinking a beer watching some football... great Sunday!

 

Beautiful waist high/chest high sets rolling in at intervals all days long! Water was warm as LI, gorgeous day out but super crowded... but there were plenty of spots to paddle to with no one on them if you know when they start to work on incoming rides. I watched my daughter catch and ride an easy 30 plus waist high rises and I had one of the best sessions ever riding my RB big boy fish and man was it a nice release and just easy all around fun and a ton of long rights and lefts that often turned into a second swell closer to shore for a fun workable speed session. Last ride to shore Brooke got rolled and took a fin to the face by her right eye. She took it pretty good too, but she savaged out and no tears, just soaked up the sympathy from the Weber Crew on the rocks lol.

Days like this are a blessing

 

certainly A great morning from dawn till about 930. Surfed south brevard co. solid chest to head high ,lefts and rights as far as you could go. water was 84 and a light sw wind that really groomed the sets. after the surf session i headed down to Boca to visit my son who attends F.A.U and ended up with a 200$ grocery bill!!! Home now and eating a PB&J

 

O Betty, stoke is stoke! I actually get excited when I hear you exuding some stoke.

I have my ailments. Lower back, knee, etc. I was reading your post just now and wondering if I get that stoked.

I catch waves throughout the year and some pretty good ones stick out in my mind each year. but, the variety of your stoke does not compare to how I feel when I get good ones.

Your variety is as good as it gets. It’s pure. It is sensational, orgasmic, and wonderful.

Thanks for sharing your situation with us. Each wave we catch is a blessing. Each moment of stoke is priceless. I’m so glad you are sharing your stoke. It is inspirational (especially as I age lol).

Keep charging sister!!!