who here has been surfing this week?

Well, buoy ticked up a bit and winds look favorable again tomorrow. Next two days look to be muy bueno!

Then, a continuation occurs with conditions that can’t be confirmed at this point.

It’s still warm and there is swell...no complaints here. Hope the swell brethren are getting while the getting is good.

Hang in there SE NC...

 

took a break today after surfing several days in a row.

Agree...tomorrow the swell looks to start building a bit and with better winds. Back on it.

 

Bee-yoo-teefull!

 

Yesterday AM before work. Long line at Dam Neck base gate so went to Croatan.
Nice change. Waist high and clean. Most were getting their share of rides. Friendly folks, lots of chatter, good vibe.

 

Avoid the clowns, cruise down to Chavez country today. It'll be waist high and clean at mid-tide, around noon. There is a strong chance I'll be the only one there. My only worry is how well my bar will handle the period. May be lots of close outs which means clown country for all.

 

i woke up way too early this morning, so i figured i go against my word n ride out to Folly for DP. The waves were forecasted to come in today, actually overnight. Clean, long lines from thi to waist hi. was going to 7thE but they got the construction crew out there and blocked off some entrances. cruised to 3rd, first in the water, but slowly drifted but held my own space for the short sess. Took the 7'2 hog molly fisch n made it work, grabbed a handful. decent drift south, unnoticeable, but solid apex frames with long lines to cut either wayz n pretty hollow for the size. was one if not the very few out there without a LB. Going after work for the rest of the week i'm almost certain

 

I'm sorry but I gotta complain for a bit.

Trying to hang in there but I'm dying right now. Prospects for surf in the next couple weeks looks dismal unless I want to A) drive 4 hours or, B) risk getting sick. Looking at the sunrise pics from this morning hurt.

I'm not surfing and in a shit mood all the time because my employer is cracking the whip and making us work 60+ hours a week and not paying overtime. Working more, not surfing. Not good for my mental well being at all.

 

May be time to plot your exit. So many good job openings right now, no one to hire.

 

Very much agreed.

 

Chest high this morning. I saw some guys get racy ones that roped down the sandbar for 75-100 yards. I felt like i had the wrong board....5'6" mini simmons. I rarely ride a mid-length but wish i had my 6'6" egg this morning. It seemed like getting in early helped set the wave up.

From around 8:00:

 

Straight offshore and busting on to the sandbar at dead low this morning. you had to chose the right one...chest to shoulder and pretty good power. I had two really good steep late take offs. Most offered up a good turn before they detonated on the shallow bar. Good fun...wish I had the day off!!! it is probably really good now with some water moving back in...

Something about a sunrise session that just mellows you out for the day.

 

Sorry for your disposition. I know it does not mean much but it sounds like you got lucky with the storm and you are physically ok and that is something, compared to many. The job thing sounds like a tough situation on top of the storm stress. You just have to grind through it man. All the best on recovering from this episode in life!

 

Thanks for the kind words man. You are absolutely right about my luck. In the grand scheme i'm lucky as hell.

 

I was able to score North end OC, it was ok, tide made it better, but its still just junior sized, I had some chest hi pits for sure and even one where I hardly had to squat and got some tubular visions, even made it out of a few, I was going to wear a springsuit but decided to trunk it, glad I did, it was wonderful.
I spent most of my time at one jetty, got a few sic ones, then tide came up, went to get out and then surfed another 45 minutes at another jetty that was working. last wave of a 3 hour session was best, decided to get out on that note.
IT was good ole golden brown jersey tubes, dark when deep.
wait what? no homo

man, I love the surfing
and the waves

this surfing thing truly is great, I dont think Id be this happy golfing or bike riding

 

@headhigh
This too will pass brother

 

I was feeling exactly like you... until today. Got fed up and made the call yesterday to take today off. Headed south and got into some dreamy lefthanders at one of my favorite spots in the state. Solid head high, offshore, rifling barrels.

Sometimes the right thing to do is put your oxygen mask on first... Walking around in a sh!t mood all day every day isn't good for anybody.

 

It was dreamy today. Warm Air/Warm Water/Sun/Trunks/October/Offshores/Spread out Lineup/4ft Lefts with occasional Rights for Shats and Gaggles.

 

Yeah i hear ya. I'm constantly reminding myself, with the help of a few kind swellies, that I have so much in life to be thankful for and I need not get hung up on this temporary BS (hurricane aftermath).

I'll be living vicariously through you all for a little longer. Can't wait to feel that water on my skin againe

 

Sorry I didn't make it up that way dude. But the waves at my spot were too damn good. I dint get out of the water until 1:30 when the tide got too deep. Chest high long period lefts just reeling down the sandbar. Straight offshore winds. Trunked it. Only two other guys out, both killing it on longborts, especially on the higher tide. Prolly the best day I've had there since last fall.

 

Oh yeah, both long boarders were wearing spring suites.