who here has been surfing this week?

Just got back from a pretty fun playful sesh! And im kinda stoked!

Got out of work early as planned. Buoy was looking good at 4 somthing feet @ 12 seconds.... light offshores... mid tide. Grabbed the 5'8 after work and sped over. Hour and a half of sun left. Got to be quick. Didn't even check.

As i came over the dune i was hit with a few diffrent thoughts.
1) looks kinda small. Fun. But smaller than i expected
2) shape does look great so im not disappointed
3) it's packed! The afternoon crowd is always kooky. Always.

Two main peaks are packed. Found a less packed spot inbetween the two. Not as consistent but i saw a few waves roll through. Got out there. I was disappointed at first. LBs back paddling, and what makes it worse is they don't even know they are showing bad etiquette. Waves coming through weren't looking great.

Then i scored the sets. There was a really long wait between actual sets. The sea of kooks were all gobbling up the crap waves. When a set came through i seemed to be the only one to hunt it down. Hell i think I'm the only one who caught a set wave.

Sets were chest high, only caught lefts, nice and clean, nice wall and steep at first then would soften a bit. I don't know if i have a CR hangover or what but it felt weak considering the 12 second period. But it was still super fun. Got a few really solid turns. Couple snaps and carve to snaps then a nice wrap to finish off. The leg still hurts but feels better. Was really driving through on that back foot and the turns felt solid. Despite the crowd, i found a few guys with a good vibe. One guy was just a nice guy, a few others were complimenting my waves, a younger kid was stoking on my board for some reason.

Got out of the water with a big smile and felt really good. Sunset was gorgeous. Got home, wife was making shrimp tacos, one of my favorite fall beers in the fridge..... that's a sweeeeeeet way to end a Wednesday if you ask me.

 

Nice! Best part is the wife back home making dinner, good stuff.

 

got some 5-6' short period hurricane swell today from big storm offshore, hot and humid but some nice lefts on the 6'10". News says peaks tomorrow at 8-12' but swellinfo is calling 3-4'. hmmmm

 

accidentally set my alarm an hour early. ventured out this morning to what was deemed the day of the week. wasn't better than yesterday morning, 2.5 feet at 12 sec bout thi high. set up by the erosion crew, took the same board as yesterday since it was in the car. had a handful, not a lot of stoke. don't think it will do well after work, we'll see

 

Quick fun one from 730-815 this morning. Seriously stoked on my new work schedule right now, basically traded an hour of afternoon surf availability (which more often than not is complicated by crowds, bad winds, or other conflicting obligations coming up) for an hour in the morning. Seventh day in a row I've surfed, every session has been chest high or bigger on sets, and I've been surfing well (for me) and getting good rides every day. Plus my busy season at work ended at the end of September so life is pretty goode right now.

 

Yesterday afternoon was a blast. Almost everyplace was breaking.

 

herro leslie

 

its shame they were ghey

 

It's been a little while since I've checked in. We've been having a lot of internet issues and busy cleaning/repairing from the storm. Our place is finally getting back to normal but I wish I could say the same about our beach. Florence absolutely wrecked our sandbars and it's the worst I've ever seen it. We have a semi-decent high tide only wave out front of the house but most spots I've checked are much worse. If you wanted to surf at low tide there better be a 6 ft swell at 13 sec and it would break 200 yards off the beach and it might get chest high (seriously). So, I've made a couple strike mission trips to the OBX the past couple weeks. Last week was big and gnarly but fun and this week served up some of the prettier waves I've seen all year. It seems like half the folks from SE NC made the trip so I'm sure a lot of y'all scored too.

 

Few more....

 

Really, really enjoy your photos, NICA. Mind if I save one for my PC Desktop at work?
Wishing you the best in your dig-out efforts

 

Another AM sesh before work this morning on son's 8-6 Austin. Water temp 76 or so. Mostly waist high with a few chest high sets for good measure. Plenty of closeouts, fairly strong northward drift, plus a reminder not to get too dependent on leashes.

 

Headed sorta souf late on Tuesday. Wed morn around low in VB was goode from afar but far from goode. Afternoon was really fun approx 4 hrs before High. Leslie was sending some Luv, biiitch had a bit of pop to her, OH on sets every so often & plenty of closeouts, which were hilarious when surfing with friends, & a few peelers made it a fun sesh.

This morning I resisted the temptation, held out for 11am & there were a couple of magic hours of peelers combined with more noggin cleaners as well. All in all a really fun couple of daze with VB local friends & a lotta laughs at our own expense, always.

 

Got in 2 hours of pretty chunky surf this afternoon . Rode my 7'2 mini me then switched to my 9'2 walden more better on the long board but faster on the shorter board I guess I could say it lined up a bit but that might be a stretch . 3 to 5 and semi bumpy but its been so windy here I was happy just to get in. I think I must paddle stronger or have a better strategy when peddling out, i seem to watch most others around struggle. wonder if its just my perception ?

Lots of sea weed but no sign of the red tide! Im greatfull for my time in the ocean.

 

5 days this week...Mon-Fri. What a great week. Man, I needed that.
But tonight, I'm nursing my old man sore neck an shoulders with a few cold ones and some base-a-ball. And not just any baseball but October base-a-ball!
Fond memories watching the Dodgers play the Mets for the NL Pennant in Oct 1988 (30 years ago?...damn) with my father-in-law in Rome, NY.
I'm a Mets fan, but for this series...Go Yankees!
...Sorry, much of this probably should've been in the "Sports Bar" or even the "What are you Sipping" thread.

 

ugh...

SJB.... where are you?

 

Got out early again today. Ran down to the beach to surf. NE wind had me a little worried but it could be worth it. Bouy ws 4ft at 12 seconds or somthing...... flat. I don't get how. Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Winds still look iffy but if there's a wave im going.

On a positive note..... just pulled the trigger on a new board! Then counted and realized i have 9 boards..... it might be time to let a few go. But i just can't bring myself to it. 7 get used, 1 has sentimental value, and 1 hasn't arrived yet.

 

NE wind chunking things up a bit on Delmarva today. Checked a spot that was a bit wind-blocked but also a bit swell-blocked. quick lunch break sesh.....snapped a pic, surfed for 45 minutes, got a bunch of funky but fun lefts. Enjoyed the fact that with a bit of drizzle and wind the recent crowd of 30 was a crowd of 2. Leslie swell day 7.

 

Decisions, decisions...