who here has been surfing this week?

HAHA! Is that really your quiver? That's awesome.

I quickly mulled over letting a board or two go but they really are all diffrent. I have some overlap wave wise, but not feel wise. For any given conditions i have at least 2 or 3 boards i could ride, but are drastically different feels.

Only problem im having is my board room is getting a bit cramped

 

No, not my quiver...yet.

 

Fun sesh yesterday morning before work, waist high, nothing spectacular. BUT, it was my fourth session now with no more than one or two people out. Just wave after wave... shoulders are screaming for advil after, but my endorphins were overloaded, smiling all day through work.

 

I caught a few chunky dumpy waves on high outgoing tide. Conditions weren’t good but there was size on em. Some OH sets breaking way outside. But it was so mixed up and wonky it was hard to get a beat on them. Happy for the ones I got though.

 

Great stuff at Nantasket today. Waist to chest and glassy as all hell. Oil slick type glass and the sun peaked through, which made for quite the Sunday session, and with no work tomorrow life is good. Awaiting a cheese pizza now with a rum and diet in my hand looking at the waves. Hope you guys scored today.

 

Leslie swell day 8, and probably the best session I've had out of this 'Cane swell. Not stellar, but head high on sets, plenty of lefts, and the swell period has come down to 11-12 seconds which helped eliminate the closeout factor. Rode a 6'1" swallow tail shortboard that only comes out when the waves have some punch.

 

Few shots from mid morning in Maryland in between sessions. Felt good to get some real pockety waves where you have to be on your toes to make the wave. Not many turns going on....pop, drop, slot kinda waves

 

What a run of swell from these systems in the last few weeks...all kinds of conditions. I need rest...

 

Similar conditions. Punchy, sections...winds have been better than I expected last couple of days.

 

we got screwed on this leslie swell down here. tides didn't align right, 2 ft at 11 sec ain't sht apparently. could've been flat i know, but the hype was a total letdown for us. i was reminiscing about floyd w a dude on sunday morning. went dp on both sat (8th st) n sunday (washout). had an hour on sat that had some LB lefties, thi hi 50 yarders. sunday was fast swell, same thi hi. Heard some ppl talking it up, but quickly deciphered they were full of sht. gonna get choppy from Michael, so no more long period- switch to short period swell. Thankful for that change at least

 

an awesome weekend to be in DE. Got on it LATE Saturday with a crap tide but still held up almost till sundown. Wind glassed off and got some super fun lefts and plenty of peeling rights all with less than a dozen people. Perfect sunset and then home for a beer.

Sunday was a zoo, but there were plenty of waves to go around and felt like summer. Sets were head high plus with serious juice, although had a slight case of closeout-itis on the bigger ones. Still fun to pull in and get blasted. It seems like the wave of the day kept coming each set. Between the temps and consistency, you couldn't ask for a better day.

Random: I don't get why people are already in fullsuits - was trunking it for 3 hours and no problem. We have all winter for that crap, viva la summer!

 

Much the same here in Jerz... Super fun yesterday in some glassy, shoulder high waves. Caught the incoming... rode the shortboard with a quad setup, which was a mistake, IMO. Should have went with the thruster.

Clean Ocean Action had a contest at my go-to, so I had to surf just outside the contest zone, which was definitely inferior to the sandbar that the pros were shredding to bits. Fun to watch them, though.

 

Northern MOCO:
SEAL ALERT!

 

No work today and scored a fun session! Good times.

 

Work all day today. No fun at all. Stormy junk anyways.

 

Had a fun 90 minutes in Belmar on Sunday night. Water was still real warm, air was still real warm. I was able to trunk it and I was out until after sunset. First time I remember that in October in a while. I’ve trunked it in early October plenty in Jersey, just not much in the evening hours. Only mid day when the sun is blazing. Sometimes the water is warmer than the air during this time of year and it’s too cold to go in with no suite, just based on air temps alone.

Anyway, nice waist to chest high and glassy waves. Just how I like it! I had been out of town on business for about 11 days, so it was nice to come home to do some surfing.

 

Did you end up with any sea lice stings? I keep getting more of them every time I go in the water. Weird.

 

HELLO BUOYS!! And Girl lol.
Been a long time in solitary - miss me??
On the thread side, DAM ITS BEEN INSANE AT NANTASKET LATELY!
Waves for all - and I do me all...I’ve surfed 5-6 days of glass, warm water and as others here can tell you, some MASSIVE waves for this beach. Break clearing sets. And some crazy good surfing to watch all the days long. Double session days these last two weekends and BABAMMM!! I’m actually getting rides on the Roberts shortie. Hard as hell to make that big of a transition (smallest bort I surf is my 8’4” Cougar/alsmost fish lol)
But the two I caught Sunday before it went onshore and snotty were fast, fun and smooth as a dance floor. I’m super stoked to know that this is gonna be totally doable for me - so now I don’t have to worry about spending $$$$ in boarts I can’t surf hahaha
And drinking at the Parrot after surfing a nice fall day is THE best, unless you get the wrong waitress and your beer is flat by the time it gets to your belly!

 

Was out probably about the same time a few miles south of you. Pretty much a magic session for me and a great way to cap off a swell I'm going to remember for a long time. Nothing epic in terms of size, or even overall perfection, but all factors just lined up just right for me. Too much bigger and I'd be holding back a bit anyway, chest high to slightly overhead is definitely the sweet spot for me to really push my surfing without either getting bored or taking a real beating. From 9/28 through 10/7 I surfed 9 of the 10 days, rode at least 3 chest high or bigger waves in every session and had to be well over 50 in the course of the week, with the vast majority of them going 50-100+ yards and basically all the way to the beach. A couple days less than perfectly clean, though even those had numerous fun rides.

Sunday was my best session of the whole run and seemed to be lining up the best at my favorite local spot. Trunked it with no leash, no rubber, just me and my newish 9'10" christenson bonneville, which I've got fully dialed in right now and am in love with (and somehow have not dinged yet despite riding leashless more often than not). Tons of people out Sunday but the waves seemed to come right to me nonstop. Paddle out, sit amongst 10-15 people on the peak, wait 30 seconds, a chest to head high set would roll through, I'd paddle for a wave, sometimes the first, sometimes the second or third or fourth but there was no indecision, it was like I just knew which one was my wave. Everyone else around me would either not paddle for it or not catch it. Stand up in the perfect spot, steep fast drop, easy bottom turn to the right, nice long glass wall for carving, eventually would mush out but that bort doesn't need much to keep going, plus about as easy as a dock to move around on despite the shockingly quick turns. Reform on the inside and drop in to a nice steep waist to stomach high bowl, repeat 1-3 more times all the way to the beach. Run back to the jetty, paddle back out, sit among 10-15 people, wait 30 seconds, and oh look, there's another set wave with my name all over it. One of the most dialed in sessions I've ever had.

Fully expecting the other shoe to drop the next time I surf, but I'm gonna remember that session (and this swell) for a long time.