who here has been surfing this week?

So won’t I hahaha! I just lived vicariously alittle bit. Cheers

 

The gulf delivered the good last night. Pics at gulfster.com with a video from venice at the bottom of the page. The red tideade made things a bit harsh. In the whitewater it would choke you. Feel ok this morning though.

 

fun leslie last pulses today. Perfect warm late afternoon sesh. Cant believe its October 10 and the water is 75 on Delmarva. Super fun session on the 5'2" Dharma Twinnie. Liking this board a LOT. Shot these around 5:30 after getting out.

 

Sergio brought his B- game to mission beach. Looked all fun but the big sets were stupid fast. Got a few small ones that had some juice but got my butt handed to me on about 5 or 6 solid sets.

 

Been a lot of that happening all over the place it seems lol. Have some pics that make Nantasket look like Cali or even better but waves are freighttrains and it’s skill and a buttload of luck hitching a ride. But still so dam fun

 

We've had a pretty good run of swell here in SoCal with no real end in site.

I've gotten pretty lucky. I live about 2 miles from Tamarack in north SD, and work about 2 miles from the Ocean Beach Pier in south SD, so I am commuting to and from good surf breaks every day. Of course, that's a brutal hour +/- each way everyday, but...well it is what it is.

I had a pretty good lunch session Weds at OB Pier. It was a bit crowded but I found a peak down the beach a bit and scored a handful of lefts that were just lined up walls. Two or three waves made the whole session worthwhile.

Today, I simply couldn't get out at lunch so I hit it at Tamarack after work. It wasn't that big, maybe chest'ish, and the wind was on it a bit, but there were some lines that, if you could get the corner, just peeled down the beach. Again, a ton of paddling, but the two waves that lined up were unreal. And I had my peak pretty much to myself, which is both unusual and appreciated.

Something was swimming around just outside the lineup. I "think" it might have been a seal, but...well, unidentified gray things swimming in the lineup are a bit unnerving right now.

 

FINALLY got some out front this morning.

I greatly underestimated the forecast. Normally the morning after a topical event the surf is tiny long period waves and blown out. Ended up being solid waist with occasional bigger and really fun despite a mushy takeoff. Beautiful sunrise too.

Feels good to be back.

 

Look they are lining up nicely. I swear, every time I used to surf Mission, it seemed like the morning would be full of close outs then around noon they would start lining up.

 

got out yesterday AM for what appears to be the last gasp of the SW swells for this year, was 2-5' and a little inconsistent on sets. got a few good ones, got eaten alive by a couple...looks to remain fun size for the next week or so.

 

Can't get down to RI today, forecast alleges some waves tomorrow still but I kinda feel like the remnants of Michael will be gone sooner than forecast. Hope not..

 

I thought you were in RI? You make a move?

 

OCMD kickback wind swell from Michael passing by early morning. Total combo swell - S winds on the front side of the system overnight, hard north winds on the backside of the system this morning, then golden NW winds all afternoon. Chest to Shoulder high in. Should have been better than it was. Combo swells with stiff offshores usually punch the ticket in OCMD. Fun, fall-like. Pics from around 4:30:

 

I did. THE MAN made me an offer I couldn't refuse, so I relocated to San Diego, bought a house, and am settled in for the long haul.

I wasn't planning on a 35 mile commute, but I really wanted to live bike distance to the beach and north county was the only place I could find something I could afford within 2 miles of the beach.

 

Awesome man! Hope you're enjoying it!

 

That commute can get ridiculous.. there’s a train stop in old town (assuming close to your work) that you could pick up in Oceanside.

I’m in south mission and surf Oceanside a lot when there’s south in the water.

Let’s link up for a surf!

 

A lot of fun in the Belmar area yesterday!

Been busy with family and havnt surfed much (or posted on here) in the last month or so... but took off work yesterday and there happen to be some fun waves in the afternoon!

Chest to head hi and pretty much offshore, nice strong offshore wind which I love! Fun rights. Rode a board that I had shaped by a local craftsman here- felt smooth a silk with the clean waves... got one nice cover up which was most refreshing for not getting in the water much lately.
Very refreshing... except the water was super dirty from runoff lol

 

Had a fun sesh this morning. Checked it in the dark, looked about thigh high. As i was about to pull away to park and get ready i saw a solid waist high set come through. It just ran off but figured the tide filling in would help that out.

I was going to surf regardless, was just trying to decide on board. I had my mini with me in case it was small and my new 5'7 in case it was pushing that waist high. So i decided to give the 5'7 its maiden voyage. Turned out to be a good choice. I wouldn't of had fun on the mini. Waves were waist-stomach high, clean, fast, and standing up nice with the lower tide. A couple closeouts but fun ones too. Winters coming. It was cold. About 50 degrees with a real feel in the mid 40s. Rainy and cloudy. Waters still warm though.

Waves were tough. Fun but every wave wasn't a good one. My best wave was a left that just went. A backhand top carve and off the lip then bang it off the closeout. I had fun. Welcomed the cold. Love this time of year. Plus getting a new board in the water is always a good time. Ill do a ride report in the other thread but I'll say this. I really like the thing. We're going to get along just fine!

 

Logged an hour at OB Pier yesterday. It was maybe chest high, perhaps a nub bigger on the best sets, but most were in that suite waist-chest range. It took me a while to get my groove on, but sitting wide at the edge of the surf/swim zone paid off again. There were some dudes out there bodysurfing in the swim zone and they had that part of the break pretty much to themselves...I may have to consider that the next time I get there and the crowd is too annoying.

I got a few, maybe 8 in an hour which is a good session for me. A few really lined up.

I'm a bit surprised the lifeguards still have a surf and swim zone delineated. The water and beach aren't all that warm anymore. I hope they break that crap down at some point, it would really spread the crowd out.

 

Fun surf in RI today, no sharks sighted. Water was warm but changing was chilly. Fall is here.

 

Thursday was great for me by my standards. Mostly chest high and well groomed sets with west to south west winds. The outer sand bars were lined up and connecting all the way in.

friday dropped off significantly thigh high but still lined up.. surfed the same spot and had it all to myself.. Thank wayne i did , There were a few locals on the crossover babbling on about how it wasn't good enough for them , you know that narcissistic type! 2 hours later the same boardwalk bullshitters were still there only now they were saying how lucky i was to have the right board.. I smiled and rinsed off in the shower happy to have head the ocean to myself... no surf today so its bbq day at mi case with some family and friends boat day tomorrow !