who here has been surfing this week?

Couple sick ones down here on the island today, the boys were doing step offs in rodanthe. I wish i had a ski + driver just to tow me back up the beach instead of battling constant current.

 

Pumped to get out tomorrow am... got a ton of work to do at the house but got calls from 5 different peeps saying they’re heading to Jerz in the am... forecast looks sick. Hope to get a few and get back early enough to paint the kitchen, living room and dining room

 

Fock painting when there's waves. Your walls can wait untill it's flat.

 

Delmarva had the goods today. Looks like more is on tap for tomorrow. Yewww.

 

Delmarva was solid and offshore by noon. Some heavy ones coming through. I didn't get as many as i wished.

 

I might be driving to jerz here in an hour

 

Man I am shot... This morning was firing in Moco. Head high with some solid ones early.

 

Still firing here. Too spent from this morning to go again, but man... if I had anything left in the tank, it'd be on.

Surfed the last hour or two of incoming, through the high tide, and the first part of the dropping tide. My usual go to spots were not very clean when I checked it first thing, so I went to another spot I've surfed only a handful of times over the last year. Made the right call... next to nothing winds, super long lines, not that hollow but just really ripable. I paced one off walking back up the beach... 230 yards... which is not very common around here.

Offshore wind came up just around the time the tide started to drop, and it really started barreling. Got one REALLY good one. Then it got crowded, quick.

Decided to switch out fins on my 6'4 round tail before I headed out this morning... pulled out the rear Stretch quads and put in a mismatched thruster trailer with a bit more rake than the side fins. Stretch SF4 fins on the rail; FCS AM-2 as the trailer. Felt REALLY good. Great acceleration, forgiving off the top, smooth and roll-y going rail to rail, but still had some down-the-line drive with the added sweep in the trailer. Never tried this combo before, but I'm totally digging it.

 

I was at Dam Neck for 4 hours today, not surfing but helping with the dune planting restoration project. Still out of action with healing foot/ankle. Talked with some the guys who had been surfing, and all I heard was how great it was yesterday, best they'd ever seen in VB,...etc.
Today wasn't yesterday, but it still looked like a lot of fun. Lots of long rides.

 

Surfed MoCo all day with my buoys. Where I was you had to work to get waves, but I got a few that lined up way outside and took me all the way to the sand.

I got SMOKED on one set. Made the drop and it was easily 2ft over my head, saw that it was closed out so I cannonballed it and got absolutely wrecked right after impact. Ragdolled for a solid 15 seconds. Felt like an eternity under water. Thought my arms were gonna be ripped off. Good way to wake up tho....

My bud was getting drone footy and got one rad clip for me. I’ll add some of the shots up later. Here’s a couple for now.

 

Assateague today. So fun after yesterdays bombs.

 

What time of day was this pic taken?

 

Fun weekend. Had another good sesh today with plenty of barrels. I hope you all caught some good waves. Imagine how good life would be if we had surf like this all of the time.

 

Send some of those waves down here ya’ll!

 

Did dawn patrol for this forecast up here on Nantasket that was green like a leprechaun the last three days...solid onshore 15+, fog, rain and a giant mess of rip wash, foamy break for 75 yds and huge swell mixed with insanity. Worse was BassMon made the trek from LI to see good stuff.’
Wait it out. Wait it out some more. Starts to get decent looking and crazy big outside - just thunder dome to get through... decide to suit up and go - couldn’t even make it out of the inside it was so bad with piled up water from swell and incoming tide. What a skunking. Got clean outside and random big sets looked great but if you weren’t out before high tide, it was an almost impossible battle.
Also went from summer shorty water to being too cold in a 3/2 without booties or hoodie, in three weeks.

 

around 11

 

Beach renourishment has FB breaking like sheet. Tough 2 weeks for me scoring anything better than waist high slop.

 

Agreed LazyE. Friday was a bust, junky all over the place. Saturday was scoreable waist hi in the morning. first wetsuite action. glad i brought the funshape, my fisch would've had a rough time catching. felt pretty good tho after the sess. def bailed on the SE NC action after the dismal display on Friday

 

Hit assateague sun morning for a super fun session. Ran into Mitchell. Lots of people with gloves and boots. smh

 

4 hours in the ocean on Sunday, that's a good day! I am spent!