who here has been surfing this week?

man, i was chilly in my 3/2 after an hour or so, more so because of air, then again iam getting old.

 

I was surprised just how fast the water temp dropped over the last week. I def didn't need booties or gloves, but it has dropped. I did see a couple people out with head gear, gloves and booties, maybe they were old. LOL

 

I almost put on booties yesterday. The air had a booty-like feel to it. I chose to forgo them. I was aight. Waves were most righteous. It was a mini-session for me. I had to get a quickie and then head to my son's soccer game in PA. Missed a big PA buck on Saturday at dusk. Like surfing, you gonna git rusty if you don't practice with the bow.

 

I sat in my command bunker (office near DC) and was plotting a strike for Saturday. (Had previous obligations for Sunday.) From here, NC, VA, MD, DE, and NJ are all in striking distance. Against my better judgement, my brother and I opted for NC (so far for a day trip, but we could share the driving). (It had the best forecast for Saturday, and he's got a place in Salvo.) We drove all night, arrived at 5 and grabbed some sleep. Woke up to the empty wave pic. On my way over the dune, my wife called on my cell and informed me that the Sunday commitment was NEXT WEEK, so I could stay another night if I wanted (gotta love her.)



We paddled into what looked pretty makeable, just to get thrashed. Knowing I'd have more opportunities later, and maybe Sunday, I bailed. My silly brother stayed out there, drifted about a mile up the beach... I felt like I should keep an eye on him, so I walked up the beach. He was drifting so fast, I could barely keep up with him at a fast walking pace. Not sure what good I would have been, except to ask someone to call the coast guard... He finally got out of the water, and we walked back, into the wind.

The next day, we drove all around the tri-villages area, checking all the spots to see what was the best option. (Loads of wind, and near high tide.) Most of the known breaks were just wall-to wall surfers, and the others weren't too impressive (too much water.) We opted to go out south of my brother's cottage, using the fantastic option of driving onto the beach to find a peak. Even though the wind was tough, we caught more than our fair share of big set waves.



The wide angle lens on a longboart nose-mount diminishes the size of the wave a bit, but check this out, that's my brother's 9'6" Walden up in the lip. I think it definitely brings things into perspective.



Judging from what I read in this thread, I'm pretty happy with the choice we made. I had my eye on IRI or TPTSNBN when I thought it was a day trip for Saturday only.

 

Yesterday was pretty epic at a couple spots by me, but I had my kid, so just as good as getting skunked. Got out for an hour today but real tough side shore winds, more work than fun.
Lots of photographer's out yesterday, Im sure something will pop up on YouTube, I have a shot on my phone and tried to post it but comes up as an error. Probably my cheap phone.
And I always wear booties unless I surf beach break, which isn't often, Im a tender foot, getting in and out of the rocks sucks.

 

Bass, I feel bad you got skunked, I can't draw a map but with a little research you could have scored , lots of coastline brother

 

I love bow hunting... best time of year to be in the woods and the most challenging hunt imo

 

got out 3-4 times last week, back to background dribble this week as the southern pacific wavemaker shuts down for winter. and the Northern wavemaker starts to wake up...the King is dead, Long live the King!

 

We had the luxury of a bunch of scouts at the spots that could have worked and the scuttlebutt was they were all about the same as The Stairs. T’s worked for a short stretch but got messy and Egypt and Lefts and Rights had the same problem - too much water staying up onshore. Someone said Green Harbour was working but I didn’t wanna drag him down there and find we missed the tide lol. Which is what we ended up doing, waiting for it to lay down alittle too long. One thing I noticed was it looked like a bunch of reef breaks that kept moving around, and sometimes going huge. That much sand moving around? Crazy

 

To be honest Mr B, I didn't know what to expect the way the forecast looked, drove by the spot and was stunned. It was pretty busy though.

The great thing about RI is the different facing coastline in a small area, it seems like you can always find a spot with decent wind. Lots of spots just a few miles away we're blown out

 

Hahaha. That’s a big NO GO ... no laser beams on those machines, just teeth. And I don’t think there would be many surprised Swellies to hear that’s a frikken nightmare of mine lol
That’s dam Jaws movie ruined me

 

Stunned sounds right! Did you happen to see it around noontime? Man, it got BIG. Some good rippers were getting a few and some of the LBs dropped in on some stuff that had everyone holding their breath. It was raw but tons of energy
I was stoked that at least Bass got to see what it does around here - he was like a kid watching some of it so I can guarantee he’s already planning his next strike. And he taught me something important: it’s not always about the surf but also about finding a new spot that catches your imagination. And he could see the potential and is pumped. He also really liked the local crew.

 

That was right around noon

 

That's awesome, all about the stoke

 

Just found some perspective - these pics are October 27th 2017. I was wearing my body glove 3/2 and was blousing in the shallows after this three hour sesh because it was so comfortable I actually got hot and had to cool down.
Also some perspective on what could have been this same weekend one year later haha
Man that was an awesome swell

This is what I was hoping BassMon would get to see only bigger... he’d have quit his job and moved haha

 

Your totally right. Thing is it was improving. After my long drive id close my eyes for a few minutes in my truck, then open them and look. Everytime it was long better and better. Just waited to long.

But that's what fascinates me about the place. So many options. NJ and OBX ste great, been to both plenty times. But up north is so much different. Totally plan on making more trips, exploring the coast line, and learning what's out there. Super cool place. You may have a smaller swell window but you make up for it in coast line

 

Almost time to set our clocks back an hour, giving me back my early morning DP sessions before work. I need to get back on a regular surf schedule, work is taking up a lot of my time and that is the only time during the week I can go now. More early morning daylight is just what the doctor ordered.

 

Still haven’t gotten my drone footage, but here are two shots from the bortewalk....



My neck is still whiplashed from yesterday. Didn’t let it stop me from that after work sesh tho. Got my fill of viz’es but no cigars. Too small to make but nonetheless good fun.

 

Nice!^^