who here has been surfing this week?

When I was married I lived in Northern RI and surfed Nanny a lot. at least around 30 times or so. It was the same distance as RI breaks for me back then. It is a super fun beach break, long rides when it's working.

 

Leftovers yesterday were pretty suite. More of a SSE/SE combo swell, but still offshore, hollow and clean. Not even close in terms of size or punch, but super fun. Rode the fish and got one long microtube.

 

#microtube

 

Halloween swell...i'm taking a half day today, so hopefully the forecast is true in being clean, thi hi, off shore. i'd usually sport an outfit on the special occasion, but i've been slacking this go round. i'll see if i can whip something up to go on top of the suite

 

Me too! Supposed to be chest high and clean offshores and sunny 50’s ... tomorrow in the 60’s and almost as good. I need a decent wave like crazy.

 

Welp, forecast sucked, pure and simple - except for winds and temps and sun so all in all it wasn’t too terrible. Three hours, 8 waves, shore break close outs for most part...BUT!!! I caught 4 legit scrappy waves for actual rides on my Roberts so I’m super stoked! Getting to my feet is still alittle awkward if I’m not concentrating but if I do, I’m up and foot placement is perfect. I actually did some trimming turns too! I know, sounds like Forest Gump of surfing but it’s legit my third time on the bort and the waves were barely thigh high shorebreak so I think that’s pretty good. And I’m once again shocked at how STABLE and solid that board feels under my feet... it makes me SO stoked to get some chest high decent waves to get some actual faces because I know I’m gonna be able to carve really easily once I’m up and going.

 

Too much work, too much travel, not much time to surf. Went to a show on my day off on Sunday, before departing out of town to a few (landlocked) cities on business. Still replaying my trip to Oahu from August in my mind’s eye.

 

yesterday was a good day. got an offer from work, took my piss test, cracked open a beer n sumtin to smoke bout it by noon. went out by the washout, had the block with only a couple guys, pretty much by myself. great stomach hi long running swell with a lil semi chop. took the LB and had a blast. good to be back in my naturally lifted form

 

pulled the trigger yesterday and burned a vacation day. Headed south to Rodanthe and scored head high toobs at a break near s turns. Super fun day, with only five or so others out. No hassling for waves, just fast breaking barrels. Took a few to get adjusted, but once I did, I started catching some screamers that held open nicely.

 

Got some nice rides at sebastian inlet! The jetty blocked the south wind and not really packed out. Took a solid beating on one wave, its funny how i see the exit of the wave but just didn't surf fast enough to hit that exit point! rode my tuned mini me made by ricky carrol.

 

Friday afternoon jetty lumps. I love it when rather crappy looking waves end up surfing really fun. that was today...had a blast. from mid afternoon:

 

Yeah! Looks fun! I'll be out tomorrow

 

Charge it Man!!

 

Got in just before light and it was good an hour later the north wind blew and blew and I got out. very cool sunrise though and lots of marine life today. everyday is a good one that includes the ocean visit

 

Surfed today. Swell went right by Delaware. At least it wasn't showing up in the AM. Drove south and it got decent right after low tide. Forecast said 3-4+. It was more like 2-3. I guess most of the power went right past Delmarva and ended up in NJ or NY.

 

Caught a few waves today. The strong offshore winds knocked down the swell. But there were still fun rides to be had.

 

I had to have pulled into 30+ backside barrels today and came out with a goose egg. It was barreling fast and hard. A little too fast. Still a super fun sesh. Hard off shores and chest-shoulder sets with no one out but my bud and I. I swear it was empty for miles. Surfed out.

Leaving for California on Monday. Forecast not looking epic but I couldn’t be more stoked to do nothing but sarf for 7 straight days.

 

Yea... wind beat it down fast yesterday. Was only waist to chest by the time I could go. A few inconsistent bigger sets but nothing like the morning before the offshores took their toll.

DP’d it this morning at first light. Just me and a SUPer down the beach. Pretty small and gutless but clean. Took the log and the fish and made the best of it.

 

Not to be a downer, but this morning ws a bit of a disappointment. Totally forgot about day light savings so i was an hour behind the sunrise from the get go. Funny because my internal clock is on point. I woke up early and felt like i over slept.... but looked at the clock and realized i wasn't.... if it was yesterday.

Got on it. Second shesh on the 5'7. Lots of closeouts. My go to spot got super shallow after florence. Needed more tide or a smaller swell. Did manage to get a few quick drop and a real quick section before it shut down. But most were drop in and get denied. Got really crowded. Grateful to get wet but i was really excited about today and got my hopes up. Oh well.

Going to stretch out some then try again as the tide fills back in. I will not give up so easy. If there is a wave worth surfing today.... I'll find it.

Which brings me to a unrelated side note. I feel iv become complacent. I do my morning sesh then that's it. If it's not good at home it's not good and that's that. Well iv made the decision to put myself in the best position to surf. Doubling up on seshs if the AM isn't leaving me fulfilled. Heading south or north to score better winds if home isn't looking good. My 20s went by fast. At 29 i need to make the most of it before i start getting to old. I refuse to be 40 and regret not giving myself as many opportunities as i could.

 

Surfed for 3 hours down in RI. Fun waves, sunshine, not too cold. Wicked crowded at the start but cleared up as the waves dropped off or people had to go do Sunday things. Toss up on wearing gloves, didn’t wear them and was cold after a few hours but it was ok.