who here has been surfing this week?

Second sesh was kinda fun. Strange. This AM looked perfect but was closing out. Afternoon looked junky, but was pretty fun. Swell dropped off a bit but still some chest high sets. Some slight bump as wind started going NE. Alot of them looked like closeouts with the lip all crumbly but the face was open. Which was awesome since i finally got to put the new 5'7 through some turns that i could actually set up as opposed to rushing them. Got to pump it down the line. Thing feels awesome under my feet. Still havnt got to really put it through its paces. But for my second day on the thing at least i got to get a better feel for it.

Had one really really solid jam off the lip. It just felt really natural on that board from the set up to riding out of it. Pumped on that. On my back hand i had a few good turns but that leg is still bothering me some so i was babying it. Got plenty of rights though so all is good.

Really shot now. Of course i have a show tonight. I don't understand why i always run myself thin like this. I never have anything going on when it's flat. Busier i am the more waves we get

 

You will if you don’t - and try as hard as you can, regrets only get dim, never go away. Trust me Pal, im trying as hard as I can to dim the SHITE out of mine lol. And your not complaicent - just not hungry at the moment because your life just had some major life priority changes and your digesting them.
To rub it in your face, you’d have had an erection seeing the waves and setup at Easton’s today and you’d have friggin shredded! I didn’t but it was still epic. And now it’s another piece to the puzzle for you.

 

What beach? I was at 1st beach from about 9:30-1 and yeah it was really good conditions. Prolly 20 surfers and some sups. Loved that offshore and real sun!

 

Knowing when to pull out is the tough part. An improper pull out can get you into a lot of trouble.

 

Words to live by.

 

I dated a legit crazy chick back in the day. Like she ended up in a mental hospital crazy. Well one time she wrapped her legs around me to keep me from "escaping". Legit had to fight her off me. Crazy ass broad

 

Was engaged to a friend of hers I think. She Moved In With another girl, began a serious relationship with her and then tried getting me to “donate” for her family plans... and then move to Florida. Her girlfriend warned me. No word of a lie.

Can you imagine the insanity if this were and actual thread? Crazy ex’s? Epic

 

did your boards fit ok?

 

Got her all packed up last night! Thanks again for the hook up, brother. I’ll be CA bound in T-minus 8 hours. Stoked to have my own boards with me.

Also note-to-self and all others. Alaska airlines is legit. They’re offering $25 board bag fees for two boards in one bag as long as they fit within their dimensions. Hopefully they arrive in one piece. I did a good packing.

 

im thinking about putting a note inside my bag asking TSA to repack it the way the opened it.

Surfed Assateague for 4 hours Sat morning. Got a really solid frontside barrel .

 

I don't think I've flown anywhere in the last ten years when I haven't found a TSA slip in my board bag. I must be on a list somewhere. still small and weak in my corner of the 808...

 

I got a 3 hour sesh on First Beach and while my wave count was way lower than potential, I did manage to catch a chest high right that peeled forever and I stayed with the lip hanging over my right shoulder for about half the ride before I got out ahead of it and then it built up again on the inside and I kept going. I’ve only been that steep on a wave a few times and it was awesome. That red Mini is EPS and it was louder than normal going over the ripples - is that normal?

 

I surfed 45th St. Sat morning for about 2 1/2 hours. Fun, but waves were like freight trains. I left when I started getting drilled more than I was riding. HA HA

 

w checked town at 715 and it looked fun but i figured it would get dumpy. State was nice and soft then got more hollow but even at dead low it was plenty makeable. that wind was cold though

 

Mind disclosing this break to me privately? Looks like one that I know but it is a little left of the jetty. Im pretty sure I know where it is but I am shocked by the quality if I am right...worth a try?

 

Where’s he been lately??

 

Stellar morning. It's been a while since I got out so it was much needed. Waist to chest,spot was protected from what little wind there was, only 2 others out, one seal, and one surfcaster casting right in the inside. ( I don't get it). My shoulders have been sore so I was picky, waiting for the bigger ones to push through, long left after long left. Even got covered up on a waist high peeler on the inside, which is rare for me (less than a clean exit but I was smiling). I am stoked.

 

I can't but its a well known spot easily seen from the road. No jetties close by. I am a transplant and respect the locals. You know the rules... If it's a big swell you won't have a problem seeing it go off, just have to take a drive along the coastal route.