who here has been surfing this week?

Finally able to get in the water this morning. Was heading into work early and wasn't planning on paddling out, didn't even look at the cams. Drove down along the beach and couldn't pass it up. I always keep a board, trunks, a 1 mil chest with long sleeve rash guard, and a towel in the truck. Small waves with some waist highs rolling in, but really clean lines. One spot in particular seems to do pretty well giving some down the line rides. Water is still warm enough, but the wind made it a little cold while waiting. Glad to soak the soul

 

I haven't gotten wet since mid-october. This must be what it feels like to live in Kansas. Disgusting. Turkey day swell cannot come soon enough.

 

I loves me a turkey day swell WOOOOOOOO!!!!!!

 

Your boyfriend is doing a horrible jobbe

 

Been in socal this week - a couple sessions in Oceanside on Sunday and was at one of the more well known spots yesterday and this am. Size has improved a bit, but not as much as I had hoped.
Still fun, but damn it is cold out here in the early AM. I have a 3/2 that has some years on it and wish I had packed a hood like discussed earlier. Wind is whipping and I'm freezing my arse off.

 

Best waves I've surfed in a while this afternoon. Cold front came through mid morning and switched the winds offshore. Rest of the day was gold. Got two or three of the best longest rights i've had in months. Pics from right before dark.

 

Slowest taxi driver ever turned 2 hour drive from LIR into 3 hr drive. Rented a log & paddled out.

Made it in time for 30 mins in water prior to sundown. Evening tropical downpour as sun went down. OH on sets, nailed a couple decent rights but wow it’s ugly how out of surfing shape I am.

Warm water & that Pacific power even on the smaller waves. So looking forward to the next 12 days here.

 

Get it bro!

 

Recently got back from an 8 day trip to San Diego. Never got epic during my stay, but I surfed everyday for 3-6 hours and had a freaking blast! Got fun waves, good eats and chilled in good company.

The south swell ranged from waist to shoulder high. Perfect Southern California weather every day and light wind in the morning. The water was literally a crystal clear blue the whole time. I surfed all up and down SD County and got to some spots that I wanted marked off my list. Got one super fun day at Blacks with a light crowd. Even got a sesh with the man himself, Scobey. Glad to see ya pal.

The wild life was cool too. Saw some baby sharks, rays and dolphins, which were surfing the waves. Super rad experience.

Couldn’t be more bummed to be home... The minute I stepped off the plane I was salty as hell. Happens every time I leave. Crappy east coast weather... I did, however, get blessed with an hour before sun down tonight and slid into a backside tube. That dulled the pain some. Maybe more choobs on the way.


P.S. Huge thanks to Pump for sending me a travel bag. Traveling with my boards was a great experience. I plan to do it more often.

Here’s a couple shots from the trip.

 

Trunked it this morning with an 85 degree high and offshore winds all morning. Swell was running chest to head high for the most part but was a little drifty with strong south winds firing overnight. At this point I'm looking forward to cooler temps and our first true NNE groundswell. NC next week for Turkey day with a possible strike mission to Folly somewhere in the works.

 

Kanman- Nice! Looks like a fun time! More pics!

 

Visited an old spot that has not been working after it was dredged and because my newer spot was blown up and super crowed the last 2 swells. It was absolutely perfect yesterday! Only 5 guys out in the area. So stoked to see that spot back to life.

 

I’ve been surfing at Cocoa Beach the last few mornings, its been at least stomach high, lined-up, textured but winds have been variable.

I recently moved to the area and my hotel is across the street from the beach so I have been able to hit it mornings or afternoons. Loving it here, the vibe, sunshine and warmth. Still trunking it too.

 

I hate you

 

Loved surfing out there! I 've surfed San Clemente, Camp Pendleton, Carlsbad, Oceanside Blacks, La Jolla, PB, Mission and Ocean Beach. Dammit, now I wanna go back!

 

Duuuude! Welcome to the area, let’s get a session one of these days. I hit it before 1st light this morning further South and it was really fun. Chest high, lined up, mostly clean with a little texture. I rode my 6’4” Flashback Fish. I got a little over an hour in before work. During the week I have to go early, weekends I can go early or afternoons.

 

Sure, I’m supposed to move further south once we get the rental home squared away. I think yesterday at sunrise was the best so far this week but I could not get in that early.

If you know where Nielson’s surf shop is, that’s near where I’m at right now

 

I know exactly where that’s at. Was up that way yesterday running appointments, I killed an hour and watched the surf at a few spots from the Cape all the way down to PAFB. It was early afternoon and onshore winds kicked in but looked really fun despite the wind, wasn’t too bad.

In the mornings during the week I hit Satellite, Indiatlantic, and Melbourne Beaches, because they are closer to home. I can hit PAFB too if I get there early enough. Takes a few extra minutes to get home from there. Gotta be home by 8am at the latest. Weekends i’ll go anywhere, doesn’t matter.

 

This will make you feel better

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...0&ll=32.86319409730545,-74.04805297675375&z=5

 

I hate YOU even more.