who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    No pics from this morning....but i'll tell you for the past 10 years i have worn a hood without booties OR gloves many many times. Once my ears went to shit, got drilled out, and now are cleaned out but super sensitive, i'll rock the 3/2 or 4/3 with no boots or gloves anytime there is a cool breeze blowing and the water is below 65. the past month, i have basically been wearing a bonnet but no boots or gloves every single session and that is typical every May and October for me.
  2. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Been wearing the squid lid for weeks. Just started wearing thin 2mm gloves last session.
    SCOB3YVILLE likes this.

  3. Yankkee

    Yankkee Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2017
    Repeated & constant exposure to wind whilst in the ocean is what causes Surfer's Ear condition. People in the tropics have to have their ears drilled out, too. It's got nada to do with air temp or water temp.
  4. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Yank's right... there are a lot of confounding variables that have, over the years, tilted research toward the cold water hypothesis. If you "happen" to study cold water surfers... and if you "happen" to only study populations that seek treatment... and if you "happen" to study a group of surfers that live in cold water climates... you're going to get very skewed research. Years of surfing, number of sessions per year, cold vs. warm., windy vs. glassy.... all confound the research. However, researchers have tried to eliminate these variables and have made at least some progress toward shedding light on the main factors that cause exostoses:

    From a study done in September 1999:

    Water salinity may not be the causative agent, but water temperature seems to be a significant factor.5 Water temperature below 17.5°C stimulates changes in the external auditory canal,6 and cold-water exposure leads to prolonged meatal erythema.2 Cold-water exposure is the most consistent characteristic in the history of patients with EAE.12,14 In fact, Deleyiannis and coworkers14 postulate that surfers of the warmer southern California waters (16.6°C) may require a longer duration of exposure to produce EAE. This is based on the finding that their patients (Oregon and northern California cold-water surfers) had developed significant ear canal obstruction after having surfed in water temperatures ranging from 9.4°C to 11.1°C for 5 years or longer, whereas the southern California surfers (30 [43%] of the 70 patients) in the study by DiBartolomeo3 showed the presence of exostoses after having surfed for longer than 10 years.
  5. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    wknd morning waves were great. pulled on the rip curl 4/3, newly bought a month or so ago, no booties needed, on at the right time i'd say. Saturday was on da shtr contemplating, then buddy gave the heads up the LB was being strapped on. Met him on 8thE Folly, went cruising on mainly thi to stomach easy peelers. bit crowded, but didn't get dropped on(close, whistled that guy out of the lineup i think). next morning, lot more chilli bone, took out the 6'9" Loehr - convinced another buddy this time to come along. lil more sideshore n reckless, but all very manageable waves with n to s drift. had a few that went to shore, cutting back n forth. tomorrow is the most promising of mornings, right after lo tide, hoping to score - supposedly IOP might be where it's at for the most of the week
  6. be.ach.soon

    be.ach.soon Well-Known Member

    Aug 30, 2015
    Surfed Saturday morning and again an hour before sunset. The morning session was about waist high with strong offshores that blinded me with spray as I paddled into waves. Saturday afternoon had a few knee to waist high sets left but it was mostly gone. I surfed alone til dark. No one else was out and the beach was empty. I was finally spooked out of the water by a sea creature thumping into my back. Wasn't able to figure out what it was but light was just about gone by that point so I didn't hang around to find out. Boots and no hood for me and I was fine. The water kept me warm. It was the walk off the beach that got me cold.
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018
    MrBigglesworth likes this.
  7. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Did you say a 4/3 in Folly?
  8. Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2010
    Some small waves this past weekend... but tide/wind/waves didn't work out well... too high in the morning, blow out and small in the afternoon

    Either way- it's starting to get cold... not the water, but the air. Had the old 4/3 on already... but I guess it's that time of year
    desandan, LBCrew and MrBigglesworth like this.
  9. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Got it Saturday morning, waist to chest liners, mellow crew. Long long rides on the LB. Some grom, trying to be polite, complimented my board. It's a 20 year old 9' single fin Mindless with lots of rocker and is pretty beat up. He was shredding it on an old 7' thick board. We were both getting waves from outside to the sand, he was turning every other second. Me not so much.

    Yesterday, by the time I got off work, the north ground swell was headhigh and the wind was blowing from the south at 20. Gnarly. Closed out. Breaking way outside on the low tide. Took a pass.

    This morning it cleaned up, and dropped to chest high peaks with light wind, making some glassy sections. Got a few nice ones, then the wind picked up againne and made it wonky, and a paddle fest. I was doing the internal dialogue "oh well, at least I got out here and enjoyed it, time to go to work", and paddled in to the inside, and got one nice peak, had to really weight forward on my 6'6" NA round nose round tail - and it went zoom - and I got a juicy one into the shore break and some old lady walking by gave me a thumbs up, which was cool. Life is goode.
  10. Panhandler

    Panhandler Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    Finally able to get in the water this morning. Was heading into work early and wasn't planning on paddling out, didn't even look at the cams. Drove down along the beach and couldn't pass it up. I always keep a board, trunks, a 1 mil chest with long sleeve rash guard, and a towel in the truck. Small waves with some waist highs rolling in, but really clean lines. One spot in particular seems to do pretty well giving some down the line rides. Water is still warm enough, but the wind made it a little cold while waiting. Glad to soak the soul
  11. foamieswithmyhomies

    foamieswithmyhomies Well-Known Member

    Sep 18, 2014
    I haven't gotten wet since mid-october. This must be what it feels like to live in Kansas. Disgusting. Turkey day swell cannot come soon enough.
  12. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    I loves me a turkey day swell WOOOOOOOO!!!!!!


    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    Nov 16, 2016
    Your boyfriend is doing a horrible jobbe
  14. Sandbar18

    Sandbar18 Well-Known Member

    Nov 22, 2009
    Been in socal this week - a couple sessions in Oceanside on Sunday and was at one of the more well known spots yesterday and this am. Size has improved a bit, but not as much as I had hoped.
    Still fun, but damn it is cold out here in the early AM. I have a 3/2 that has some years on it and wish I had packed a hood like discussed earlier. Wind is whipping and I'm freezing my arse off.
    eatswell, Yankkee and Notaseal like this.
  15. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Best waves I've surfed in a while this afternoon. Cold front came through mid morning and switched the winds offshore. Rest of the day was gold. Got two or three of the best longest rights i've had in months. Pics from right before dark.



  16. Yankkee

    Yankkee Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2017
    Slowest taxi driver ever turned 2 hour drive from LIR into 3 hr drive. Rented a log & paddled out.

    Made it in time for 30 mins in water prior to sundown. Evening tropical downpour as sun went down. OH on sets, nailed a couple decent rights but wow it’s ugly how out of surfing shape I am.

    Warm water & that Pacific power even on the smaller waves. So looking forward to the next 12 days here.
  17. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Get it bro!
    Yankkee and MrBigglesworth like this.
  18. Kanman

    Kanman Well-Known Member

    May 5, 2014
    Recently got back from an 8 day trip to San Diego. Never got epic during my stay, but I surfed everyday for 3-6 hours and had a freaking blast! Got fun waves, good eats and chilled in good company.

    The south swell ranged from waist to shoulder high. Perfect Southern California weather every day and light wind in the morning. The water was literally a crystal clear blue the whole time. I surfed all up and down SD County and got to some spots that I wanted marked off my list. Got one super fun day at Blacks with a light crowd. Even got a sesh with the man himself, Scobey. Glad to see ya pal.

    The wild life was cool too. Saw some baby sharks, rays and dolphins, which were surfing the waves. Super rad experience.

    Couldn’t be more bummed to be home... The minute I stepped off the plane I was salty as hell. Happens every time I leave. Crappy east coast weather... I did, however, get blessed with an hour before sun down tonight and slid into a backside tube. That dulled the pain some. Maybe more choobs on the way.

    P.S. Huge thanks to Pump for sending me a travel bag. Traveling with my boards was a great experience. I plan to do it more often.

    Here’s a couple shots from the trip.

    eatswell, NICAfiend, Yankkee and 12 others like this.
  19. JohnnyCornstarch

    JohnnyCornstarch Well-Known Member

    Feb 24, 2015
    Trunked it this morning with an 85 degree high and offshore winds all morning. Swell was running chest to head high for the most part but was a little drifty with strong south winds firing overnight. At this point I'm looking forward to cooler temps and our first true NNE groundswell. NC next week for Turkey day with a possible strike mission to Folly somewhere in the works.
    eatswell, Yankkee, desandan and 6 others like this.
  20. Notaseal

    Notaseal Well-Known Member

    Apr 18, 2015
    Today was a good day at the Washout with my most awesome new 5'5" Rusty Dwart.
    eatswell, Yankkee, desandan and 3 others like this.