who here has been surfing this week?

Another fun morning. Lots of clean lines and only a few guys out, plenty of peaks to spare. 2nd sandbar was working and with enough juice to ride all of the way in.
The air temp is dropping today. I used to give guys crap for being in wet suites before Dec. Guess I've adjusted to the sunshine state.
Glad to get the stoke tank topped off, forecast is looking a little bleak until the weekend

 

Even the Gulf is going off?

Daaannnng

Glad to hear everyone is scoring

 

Just got out from a really fun session on the LB. I could have ridden the SB but happy with my choice. The sets were chest high and reeling down the sandbar with stiff offshore winds. The waves would build and build into a nice wall and then boom, flying down the line. I needed it, because I have a lot on my mind these days. The ocean has a way of healing and providing refuge from life’s issues.

 

Yesterday was a lot of fun. It was macking when I first got out. I was at a particular break in Ocean County in the am and saw some of the thickest sets I’ve seen all year. Bigger than last Friday big. Had to be pushing in the double OH range on the biggest sets. Most guys weren’t paddling out where I was because of how massive it was. My buddy and I went for it and we got rewarded, but I definitely felt out of my league for a little bit.We got some big lefts and rights for a couple hours, before I got out and went home to pick up my photog.

Went back out in the evening. The size dropped out a little, still head to OH, but so did the tide and it was draining in like 2 feet of water. Barrel fest. We pulled into everything we saw...

 

Those are some pretty sick pits

 

I don't remember the last time I went surfing. I might have to go through my posts, because I'm sure I posted about it the last time that I did haha.

Too much work this time of year, hardly any days off. Last day I had off and planned to surf, it was either completely flat or just completely blown out. I don't even remember anymore. I have off today, surf looks okay, but I need to sleep.

 

Same in MoCo... There was a stretch where every wave was a barrel. Stupid good...

 

Well I FINALLY go out this morning--air temp 32*F, water temp 46*F. Waves waist to shoulder, offshore winds.
So I decided to longboard on my G&S RT Competition board. Had blast for 2 hours, then got a bit cold, wearing a 5/4 for first time this year. Next week I will be in 85*F water--I will feel naked in trunks only. Hmmm....maybe I should go naked....who would care??

 

You need to surf - you’ll get plenty of sleep when your dead

 

Who would care? Anyone with eyeballs. Welcome back Barry, bout time. Have fun in PR, post some pics.

 

Did you custom order the round tail or did you find one stock?

 

This one I got "off the rack", which I now regret a bit. It is 9'2, a bit longer than what I custom order my longboards, which are usually 8'8". But it has been a great board nevertheless. But next Spring I will trade it in a get one (same model in my preferred size, which makes it way more maneuverable.
G&S is great about making customs, I found. I have had a lot of their boards over the years.

 

I’m in the market for a 9’2”. Just sold 9’6”.

 

*Finally* a swell that lingered into the next day. It got better through the morning with some clean head high sets coming through late in the morning.

 

Wuz that youz out there on a SUP around 7AM??

 

Ran home at 3:30 to grab gear, bort and go - get into water about 4 as sun set and it’s pretty big swell but there’s a nasty cross wind about 25mph making sideways two foot chop. Chest high but every 5-10 a set of HH/OH rolled through - giant closeouts. Side wind had me paddling up beach every five minutes. Starts getting dark and I Paddle into a nice one, caught it, got to my feet turning right as I drop - all looks good... then i get blown off boart by a sideways closeout lip that made me see stars. Got rolled along bottom for 20’ in compete darkness and finally stand up in the wash. The one wave sent me from outside the break all the way to the foam. Shook it off paddled back out and waited until I couldn’t see the swells coMing and caught a second wave, made the drop backside, caught one good trim up the face and then down for some speed and then turned out of the closeout and called it. All in all, I shouldn’t have been out in it alone, and it was pushing above pay grade, but I got some good paddling in and some salt water in my face so I’m happy enough.

 

Damn, it's been frickin 1.5 months! I last surfed on October 13th, going through my posts. I know I haven't surfed since, because I would have posted about it. This thread is almost like a mini surflog for me at this point. I also surfed on October 8th and I know quite a few times in September. I had plans to a couple other days, but the conditions just didn't hold up and weren't worth it.

It's not the longest I've went without surfing, as I regularly go through this every fall and winter, due to work. Another killer is when I get home around 6:00-6:30 like I did tonight, it's too dark to get in the water. I usually try and get out a bunch when I get home in the early evening in March, when the sun starts setting later. I'll surf in the dark with no problems, but I just don't like starting the session in the dark. I'll gladly finish in the dark, though! I'll be in California in a week and just want a few good sessions there.

 

7am!?! Who surfs at that ungodly hour? After a full breakfast, reading the morning paper, and my daily constitution, I paddled out at 9am just as the last of the worker bees left the lineup. I mean someone needs to surf all those empty waves.

 

Yup, i do that as well, but yesterday a friend (I actually do have friends, you know) asked me to go with him at 7AM, so I obliged. Was a lot of fun for us; hope it was for you as well.

 

I get empty waves almost every time I paddle out. I enjoy watching the sunrise from the water after already catching a few. It’s a spiritual experience IMO.