who here has been surfing this week?

froze my butt off in clean waist to chest this afternoon. Best part was after the first 15 minutes or so the only other guy out went in. I can't remember the last time I caught a good break in vb all to myself for almost two hours. I think that alone made it one of the better sessions I've had in a long time!

 

had an awesome sesh today in monmouth county. had it alone for an hour, then the kids got off school and plenty of chest high glassy clean lefts. i love winter surfing, it is sometimes hard to be motivated and throw on all the rubber, but sooo worth it when its fun like this

 

Today's session erased all of the difficulty of yesterday's. The waves were bigger, better, and more lined up. Solid waist to chest, with a few random chest +'s thrown in for good measure. The sets seemed to come and go. The SW was on it by the time I got there, but it took a good hour to create some moguls. Between the longer period and the wind, there was a surprising number of closeouts.

Nonetheless, I managed to eke out a few faces, the best of which was a beautiful looking wave that reared up just as I was returning to the lineup, too late for the peak of course, with no one on it and no one in position. With the shoulder holding up, I turned and I went and BLAMMO, I was rewarded, launching myself off of a chunky mogul at the end. That was my favorite wave, but there were fun drops to be had thereafter, and any day with multiple rights is a good day at my spot.

The sun was out, and it felt much warmer than yesterday. Eventually my nose and feet became icy. But by then, the waves had largely subsided, and the chill blue-boarded dude I had shared waves with was long gone. Only one of two jetty hugging, inside loving grommets remained in the water. The rest of the beach was empty and more or less flat.

I walked back to the shop and, for the first time, opened my freshly purchased locker, grabbed my towel, and took my wetsuit off in a hot shower. After changing under the boardwalk last winter, I was grinning ear to ear. "Best money I ever spent," I thought, as I remembered saying the same about my 6/5/4.

Great f*cking day.

 

Don't want to derail this, but Peajay, what gloves did you get? I might go shopping this afternoon.

Still little swell in the water here, might be a window before dark.

 

Solid NW running here. The wrap into my homebreak is only WH/CH, but super clean long-period swell. Probably 17s. Moderate offshores all morning turned light onshore during yesterday's noon sesh. Very racy lines, but some corners and barrels. Got a nice clean left-handed barrel with the 3 other guys out staring down the tube at me in envy. Nice and warm with the offshores. Cool water, but not cold.

Should be good again today.

 

Not hyperflex... Xcels are da best.

 

Not the best pic, but yesterday was fun

 

looks like titty high?

 

3 to 4 with some larger sets and some smaller, it was fun

 

I've got an older model of those...

Mine suck

 

noice I'd take that any day

 

My last four pairs of gloves have been two of the 5 mm. Xcel Drylocks, and two of the 5 mm.O'Neill Psycho. Edge goes to the O'Neills for warmth and durability. My hands were fine yesterday in the O'Neills and the water is down to 39 or so. The Xcels have better grip.

 

My hands stay freakishly warm in 5m Xcel mittens, next pair will be gloves methinks.

 

My son rode his bike up to surf for an hour last night before dark. Nearly froze to death riding home. Kept muttering something about moving to Southern California.

 

Surfed for 1.5 hrs last night. Fun. COLD! Alone. Tide a little high. I probably missed it by 3 hours.

First time in since that early December swell. Good to get wet that's for sure.

 

At first I thought you meant he rode an hour to surf and an hour back!