who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    HEY! WHAT IS HAPPENING?
    10,000 POSTS! FAR OUT!

    When I started this thing I never would have thunk it would be still going this long. Very cool. Thanks for everyone who abided by keeping it positive and surf related.

    I got a couple more surfs in the last 2 days. Yesterday I returned to the rock reef right that gave me some trouble last time. Surf was chest to head and so clean. The water was Crystal clear. No seals this time but looney birds were all over. They would jump over the breaking wave and almost land on you. Rode the fish this time and had no trouble getting in and around that 1st section. Most of the time. Off the top after and then you were set up for couple more. Back side is so weird.
    I wore a 3/2 with a hooded vest and winter boots and mitts. Not because my balls are huge but because my 5 mil is that bad. The wind was blocked by a cliff and I was fine for hours but you could feel the cold creeping in after the sun dipped. Was a great session super stoked because I thought I lost my backhand.

    Had a Turkey dinner waiting for me at home but no cranberry sauce. Can't have everything.

    Wore the same suit today at a less protected cove but only lasted an hour with the cold air and biting off shore. Handled my work load and found a beach on the bay to type this out. Something tells me the wife is cooking fish cakes up with the leftover mashed potatoes.

    Again thanks for making this thread cool
    Hope you guys get some surf too,
    PJ
     
    headhigh, Wavestrom, Zeroevol and 9 others like this.
  2. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    No no no no, thank you sir.
     

  3. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018


    Get past the first bit and this is what we had for dawn patrol last week... this guy is local and makes all kinds of funny vids and catches some great swell and surfing too. This is what it looked like for BassMon but nastier wind and more exposed area... made a huge pile up mess inside and ruined what could have been this. Above my pay grade but he’d have ripped. 3:20 is our local shaper Roger Beal on one of his Cougars - my green “fish” just a shorter version.
     
    Zeroevol likes this.
  4. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Looks really fun and user friendly, i’d hit it!
     
    MrBigglesworth likes this.
  5. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    That particular spot can get REALLY big with the right swell direction and period. There’s a few others that nuke on occasion 2-3’ taller but it’s on rare swell.
     
    DawnPatrol321 likes this.
  6. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Yeah it looks like it can hold for sure.
     
  7. pkovo

    pkovo Well-Known Member

    599
    Jun 7, 2010
    Haven't posted on here in ages, but in the spirit of 10,000 posts.... I surfed for 4 hours yesterday in Jersey.

    First spot, well known but oddly empty with the main peak grabbing a nice head high wave every so often. Surfed a little 5'11" round tail fish which I could never surf here if there were others out. It paddles terrible and I mostly do no or limited paddle late takeoffs under the lip jamming the tail into the face on this thing as I am nearly 200 lbs. It was quite odd I caught it to myself, but was super glad. Had the masses paddled out I would have been forced to snag a longer board from the minivan, but was glad it didn't come to that.

    Second spot, smaller and in a bit of a crowd, but lucky for me it was a crowd of people that didn't seem to surf particularly well. Now I'm no superstar, but everyone seemed to want to sit way on the outside and fight for the bigger rare set wave that seemed to only roll through every 10-15 minutes. Most people sat too far outside to catch waves anyway, seemingly afraid of the prospect of potentially taking one on the head, but it was waist high wind swell, and 60 degrees out so it was all a little odd. It was fine by me though, I sat a little inside and caught my fill of nice chest high waves using my patented lazy man no paddle takeoff. I'm a weak paddler these days, but I was uncontested, which was bizarre given the number of people in the water. Rode about half of the waves I caught all the way in to the sand only to trot down the beach to the rocks, paddle back out duck dive free, inch over to the peak and do it again.

    Eventually it got too deep, my old arms got too tired, and I knew I had to take my daughter to karate lessons, so I bailed with 4 hours of much needed surfing under my belt. Stopped for a pork roll egg and cheese sandwich on the way home and the nice lady on the grill who I was chatting with gave me a dozen free bagels to boot (winning).

    Anyway, super nice way to waste an extra vacation day I had to use or lose, and 10k posts to this thread is sweeeeeet.
     
  8. eatswell

    eatswell Well-Known Member

    981
    Jul 14, 2009
    Both north and south! Not sure how many hours I’ll get for surfing, but hoping to get some time in the water in LA/Orange County and Santa Cruz!
     
    Notaseal likes this.
  9. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
    First sesh of the new month was yesterday for my lunch hour off Dam Neck. Nothing special...maybe knee-thigh high. Water in low 50s, air temp mid-upper 60s. There were about 5 of us out.
    Still getting used to the added rubber. Borrowed my son's 8-6 Austin (he's in Texas).
    Less than a month until retirement.
     
  10. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    airbrush is fine, backhand stylee looks good. Gotta ask, what are the dims on this stick?
     
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  11. mrcoop

    mrcoop Well-Known Member

    605
    Jun 22, 2010
    Surfed a few days between turkey and this past Monday. Surf was good at both sp and oc...tho really deep at sp halfway towards the high. Fun times.
     
    MrBigglesworth likes this.
  12. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    So I got out of jury duty early, and was ready to head down to the beach when the wife asked if I could help her mom put together one of those newfangled electric fireplaces for her. Did I forget to tell you that all my in-laws relocated from over the mountain to just down the street? Lovely.

    So I spent like 3 hours working on that Chinese ball of feces, grumbling all the while that I was missing perfect surf.

    After finishing, rushed down to the beach to find excellent shoulder to head peelers groomed by strong offshores...And nobody out.

    Me and my best bud caught it alone for about an hour before 2 other locals paddled out, trading waves for another hour. A very good surfing day.

    Super long period groundswell starts filling in this afternoon...should get interesting
     
  13. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    You sound like a cool dude - you should visit more often
     
    DawnPatrol321 likes this.
  14. smitty517

    smitty517 Well-Known Member

    716
    Oct 30, 2008
    Had the day off today (thanks DT) but of course it's dead flat.
     
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  15. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    5'7 x 21 3/4" x 2 1/2" Its my winter mini simmons. Few inches longer for extra float
     
    La_Piedra likes this.
  16. capecodcdog

    capecodcdog Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2012
    Finally got wet after several weeks outta the water. Heavy work load with critical deadlines and other responsibilities kept me out, but finally things lined up Saturday and was able to squeeze in an hour+ sesh. Air temps in low 40's (water mid 40's bon voyage grey suite buoys), and I was nice in toasty in the new 5/4 I scored on clearance earlier in the fall (thx for the tip scobes). Got some nice waves (although any decent bumps are good waves when you've been in the surfing sahara), rights and lefts, w/ soft take offs into zippy inside sections. Got a little more crunch as the water drew out. Fairly clean as the wind was near dead. Quick snap below I took from the weeds before getting in .. no time for cinematical artistry when you haven't been wet in a while and needed to make haste to score. Good to be re-immersed in salt water.

    Be well swellers!

    20181201_095517-1_resized.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2018
  17. dave

    dave Well-Known Member

    422
    Dec 11, 2008
    I've been buried with work, no surf since mid-October! These posts help out a lot (also the fuckton of $$$ I'll make) so thanks all! Especially the ones with pics. I'll have more time in about 3 weeks.. how awesome is that 1st wave after a long drought of surf? Too great to describe?
     
  18. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    ...... only if you make it! Hope you get some soon. Hell i hope i get some soon. One more month and i get a new stock of sick days to use for those mid week days!
     
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  19. McLovin

    McLovin Well-Known Member

    985
    Jun 27, 2010
    surf way better after a drought, just a lot hungrier/committed
     
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  20. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    Last good session was a month ago... got wet and slammed around for a few last week at dusk... I’m SOOOOOO gonna enjoy Rincon.
     
    Notaseal likes this.