who here has been surfing this week?

That is funny, I can always count on you B

 

Keep enjoying your trip--seems as if you have been.

 

Sick pics Yank! Those shots are legit. Looks like you had good fun. That’s what it’s all about.

 

Thanks Kan. Yah, those HD shooters can make even a ham & egger like me look almost ok on a boart!

 

AM sesh before church today. Thigh-waist and a few chest high sets. Had some rain while out there. Larger than the usual crowd this morning, many sweepers, but was fun to get wet.
Getting ready for son's Holiday visit. He's been in Texas this past year and itching to get wet.

 

So, are u getting a bimbo for him??

 

He doesn't need my help.

 

Then your job is done!! Well done I might add!!

 

Had a really fun sesh with Mr Biggs today, he came down to RI and I took him to one of my favorite spots. I can't say enough what a solid, great guy he is. He really is super stoked. I watched him paddle into a bomb, get up and make the drop, then got annihilated, and came up smiling and happy. From here on in, the guy is always welcome to come down. Now we need the mods to lift his ban! Free MR BIGGS!
By the way, great photos Yank. Looks awesome.

 

Thanks.
The lad does all right for himself.

 

Either that or one of these guys...

 

Gracias Manik - - and why is Biggsy banned?

 

He said muther F’ing.

 

Thanks for sharing. Looked fun

 

Focking A Yank. Good stuff man.

 

Today was really fun! It was a solid chest high and clean. I rode the LB and caught a ton of long rides, mostly lefts with the occasional right. The lefts stayed open forever it seemed, lots of carving up and down the face, cutbacks, nose rides, you name it. I had a buddy out with me and it was fun to share the stoke. The waves were more fun than I thought they would be, which is always bonus!

 

Took a long walk to mallums. It was really fun. 5’, lined up and only 3 other guys out. Everywhere else he 20-50 people on every peak.

 

Went on a mission to find waves today.... Woke up sore as hell from yesterday’s training session. Did a lot of stretching and recovering before heading out. Drove far south and got it good with two of my buddies. Waist to shoulder high and fast zipping lefts. Pulled into a bunch of hollow suck ups. Super stoked to find waves when I wasn’t sure we would.

Tomorrow is gonna be good, but I gotta grind. Looks like the weekend might offer something. Holding onto hope.

 

Scored two sessions today. Was expecting 4 foot surf and ended up finding some solid waves! First time I went out in the full winter wetsuit... Felt like my timing was off but still managed to scratch into some sets. Was almost denied on the paddle out. Grinding for 15 minutes or so, out of gas and about to quit when a lull came. Dug deep and broke out. It was a battle in the 44 degree water and full winter gear. Persevered and caught some fun waves!

 

Dude are you seriously taking off deeper in the peak than the locals, and they're backing off?

Balls, dude. Just balls.