Saturday was looking good. unfortunately my buddy flaked on picking me up cuz he didn't think it'd fare out well. didn't surprise me tho, dude's a forecasting moron even after 10 yrs of surfing. had Sunday tho to make up for it, went early to make it count. brought out the big NSP riding machine when the tide was starting to fill in n ya needed the size to get on it. had a bunch of em going backside left out on 3rd E on Folly. small drift down south to the pier, logged in a couple sessions going back n forth. then made a move to the showers at Washout for another couple with the Greg Loehr fish. found myself getting caught up n a current running out to sea sometimes, but caught a plenty. wasn't that packed out there Sunday, but was solid stomach hi peelers. might venture back out tomorrow evening for a good new years whalecum ride-out
Hey what's happening? Got My last surf of the year. A nice waist high line an hour after dead low. I had missed a few swells with a back strain. Saturday my whole situation snapped into place and I could do some stuff like get out of bed and put on socks without a struggle. I figured Longboarding a fading swell would be the easy best bet. Got into my gear at the house. It was a new suit and it was a struggle. Getting a heavy LB into the Ocean was also tough. I might have given up if I wasn't already suited. Once in the water though, everything was OK. There was a light snow, I was around less aggro LB elders and the waves sets were spread apart so I got out there easy with just a little pressure on my back. Didn't have time to sit as a perfect left came right at me. Two stokes an I was in. Got up quick, there was a twinge as I tried to fade in but after that it was fairly smooth. Didn't head to the nose, just rode the tail around the pocket. Didn't get a barrel but crouched like I was in and a few dudes out on the shoulder were fooled at my illusion and hooted. Felt good. Got a few more like that and the tide killed it. I didn't want to over do it anyway. I drove home in the suit. I almost called for assistance to get the new suit off my shoulders. Ate some eggs with toasted Italian bread then played super smash brothers with my kids. That game is incredible. Ready for another surf already. Hope yous find fair winds and empty waves in the new year, PJ
Got some leftovers yesterday. Went to my spot immediately after low tide and got some knee/thigh high peelers. Ocean was like a mill pond, no wind. Decided to take out an old 7 foot fun board. Incoming killed it quick so I went to the only spot that where it would still break. It's a secret spot on the North end of Ocean City NJ, in between Waverly and 5th street. Only about 500 people know about it. So I show up and each jetty has about 6 guys on each side, all on LBs and SUPS. Hell, even the shit pipes had guys gaggled around them. But there was still a little decent leftover swell coming through so I muscled my way into the gaggle and got some decent rides. Not a bad two days in the water after being out for so long. You guys have a safe and happy New Years!
For the first time since November 4th, I finally got into the water and caught fun and consistent waves. Been wet a few times and had some action and one awesome water time sesh with Manik but none where I had more than a wave or two that I actually rode out. Manik sesh was tough cause conditions made it hard to get into the wave but they were there in droves...above pic is that day from someone else’s camera. So yesterday was a relief to get some dribbly thigh high waist high crap in close. Got to get some paddling in, some reps getting on sloppy waves and had a bunch of fun mess around mini Mal rides in the sun. Rode til sunset. Tested out new Hyperflex Viryl 5/4/3 and love the fit and how easy it is to put on/take off but it didn’t feel much warmer than my 4/3 Bodyglove legend. Love the attached hoodie. One thing I’m up in air about is the undershirt I’ve worn twice now. It’s an O’Neil thick rash guard, not neoprene but stretchy thick nylon, and I don’t know that it’s helping or hurting As far as keeping warm. I’ll try without next time but it’s kinda tough now cause water is 42degrees so I’m at about the limit anyway. Don’t wanna wear that God aweful 6/5/4 Red cell until absolutely necessary but short of buying one of those core heater under vests, that’s what’s coming next. Was pretty fun ankle pumping around foamy closeouts on glassy humps though
It was good to get out Saturday and yesterday morning, Saturday being the better of the two. Water and air temp were nice. First paddle out on a CL steal, 8’6” Super Frog. Great way to end the year and looks like Wednesday and Thursday should be good with the front coming in. Sure would love to start the new year with a few days in the water, that would be swell
If its nylon and not soaking up water it certainly doesn't hurt...if its super thin then it may not be doing much good either. I'll tell you what you can wear under a wetsuit that really makes you warmer....THIN merino wool base layer top. Provides a lot of thermal insulation even when wet, doesnt soak up any water at all. I've been surfing in 40 degree water with a hooded 4/3 and the merino wool top for the past 5 years. Love it. There's a reason Patagonia uses merino wool lining in their winter suits. It works.
I got one of these when I was in Santa Cruz. It fits like a rash guard but is kinda like Fleece. I wore it underneath my 3/2 along with some boots and was warm enough to surf a few hours in the morning. Water was about 50, air was about 45-50. It did add warmth without too much added weight or restriction. I have the short sleeve, but they have long sleeve too. http://mysterioso.com/product-tss-m-tech-shortsleeve
Never seen one of those before. pretty interesting shape. never rode a board that size but have seen some that caught my interest. if you get a chance, can you take a pic of the backside of the board showing the fin placement? Hard to tell the front of the board, pointed or rounded off. hope u score and have a good new years, cheers
I checked the tag on mine and it's 24% polyester, 60% nylon, and and 16% spandex. It's real stretchy and warm.
$36. 100% merino wool. I’m ordering two and hoping it keeps me in my Hyperflex through the whole winter.
this is roughly what i use...i went for long sleeve. i'm sure short sleeve will help with core warmth. you want a snug fit...its very soft and its a base layer.
Got some nice chest high rides this am - had to be on the spot to miss closeouts but if you payed attention and could get on them, there were a bunch of nice lefts and rights early on. Wind shifted with outgoing tide and went hard sideshore and blew it out after a few hours but it was fun. Welcome 2019 and new starts
Had to work last night, NYE in the hotel is always busy. Current fins are ok, the board handles nice and turns quicker then I was expecting. Not bad for $75. I felt a little bad, I low balled thinking she would counter back to 100, but she didn’t.
Really fun in NoMoCo this morning chest+ with gusty offshoures... my spot was working better than it has been recently which resulted a decent crowd (mostly NYers). Holiday and 60 degree weather added as well. Still mellow and lots of fun. Couple of little barrels and long, lined up rights
surfed north of the city for a few hours. Wind was pretty brutal but the air was warm. Tons of kite boarders out, looked like a perfect day for them. Walking back into the wind with my board, I was almost knocked down by the stupid gusts twice. I hate the wind. Here. I like the wind a lot when it’s far away, generating swell.
You missed the sand blasting on Nanny walking up from water at low tide...had to hide face behind bort. Howling
Got my fill on the New Year. Strong offshore flow and fun south swell. Got pounded most of the day. Rode my hybrid while the barrel board is getting fixed. Hybrid has knifey rails and very little rocker. Drops were tricky, but doable. There were a few that made the beatings worth it.