I've been watching a lot of late 60's/early 70's stuff on You Tube. Rory Russell and Jerry at Pipe, Sunset, Uluwatu. Larry B and Barry K. Billy Hamilton and Jock. The pioneers of shortboarding (or shorter boarding) at those spots. Smooth, styled surfing. Good soundtracks.
Can't get wet on Friday now. Hopefully, there'll be some leftovers from the monsoon were getting right now on Saturday.
Iv been on the same boat. I was reading somthing recently that mentioned today's high performance surfing. Essentially they were saying what makes it high performance? It's the industry. Sure, guys are doing crazy stuff. But go back. I just watched "morning of the earth" the other day. Old buttons videos. The style and flow of that era is very impressive. Is that not performance? At a high level? That's a conversation for another thread. But yeah. Big arcing stylish cut backs are what gets me off.
What time you leave? It got really good around 3:30. Not huge but definitely some solid ones and dead low tide. Wish we had another couple hours of daylight.
Delmarva was insane today (this morning). Heard yesterday was good too but super long, rippable lines today. Water feels like ice!
Suited up, 49 degrees out, got to beach, checked the most likely spot to have a decent wave based on the SE swell angle and NW winds. There were rideable waves but they looked weak and soft and getting torn apart by the stiff NW wind. I pulled a Barry and went home. I brought my SB and didn't feel it would offer much of a ride, had I of brought my LB I probably would have paddled out. I'm working on getting a truck soon so I can bring more than one boart when my wife has the Trailblazer, which seems to be always these days, funny how that works. How did I end up with her Corolla and she ends up with the SUV?
It is the price you pay for having a beautiful wife. Sounds as if she is very good at "managing".....lol