who here has been surfing this week?

It's been a struggle as of late, work and family have kept me out of the "Fun Zone". I check it early before work, it looks doable to good, I look at lunch, crappola. After work, crappola, and/or I didn't bring the log for the weak boat wakes. It was going off yesterday am, filled with conference calls. At least the bills are paid.

Enough aboot me, glad to see some of ya'll are getting the goods! Tomorrow looks rideable (maybe kinda) and I'm free......knock on wood lol. Peace and waves fellas.

 

Finally able to get some yesterday. AM sesh was fun waist to chest with some a bit bigger, clean and glassy with a good punch. Cold in Fl standards but a fun hr and a half, then had to go to work. Kept checking the conditions throughout the day. Was a pretty annoying day with meetings and having heeps of corporate sheet thrown on to "motivate" everyone for the upcoming season. So's I ditched out way early and got about two hrs in until dusk. Size dropped a little but were some decent sets rolling in clean faces. Winds worked out well yesterday after days of 20-30+ and blown out slop. I hope the other gulf guys got some

 

That sounds killer...

I haven’t surfed in weeks (since trip)...missed a couple of good days too.

 

Yea, I have been ignoring the fun zone for a few weeks too! Working hard so I can play hard!!!

Glad to see some stoke flowing around dis place tho!!!

 

just got back, clean 3-5' with some + sneakers to keep you honest.

 

Those of us that have found the perfect (as possible) lady, looks and brains, are the fortunate ones. I allow my wife to manage me wholeheartedly. Likewise, she allows me to manage her as well. That has been going on for 47 years now. Works for me. And for her.
While some may consider me nuts for staying with one lady for so long, I consider myself lucky in that regard.

 

Glad you got out. I kind of have had the impression you haven't had much opportunity to go, now that you 2 kids.
I have not been surfing more than once every 10-14 days, or so. Been busy helping family with items. Also, I no longer feel that urgency to go surfing, especially during winter. Age, I suppose. That and the fact that I have sucked out the milk of thousands of waves during my lifetime. Do I really need any more?? Well....just a little.....

 

There is a small wave out now, and winds are not TOO bad.
But....I have to pick up granddaughter this morning, so no surfing for me!!

 

Well said, and I agree. We have another 40+ years of marriage to catch up you two though. I tell my wife all the time if I can surf when there are waves, she can have whatever she wants, like us spending the weekend in Orlando like we are now, just because, since onshore winds are still ruining the swell. I give the green light on things like this and she takes care of all the planning. I just enjoy the time with her, no matter where we go or what we do.

 

You have the correct impression. I certainly have missed a lot of waves recently... I actually have the easiest time getting out during the week since I make my own schedule and don’t go in to an office.
I also moved in to a new house so I have been working on projects here. Today I’m refacing the fire placing and building a new mantel. Fun stuff
I agree that the urgency fades when it’s freezing cold. That’s what makes sessions like yesterday so great... warm sunny and no wind

 

Yesterday was so fun. Unloading my boarts from the truck last night, I heard a voice form across the street. "How was it?" He's a young man, with a young son that takes up all of his spare time. Haven't seen him in the water for at least a year. He's just trying to get by. It reminded me of all the good days I missed raising my kids. At the time I just tried to think about how one day... before I knew it... they'd be able to take care of themselves. I knew exactly how my neighbor feels... a bit of depression, melancholy... maybe even a hit of jealousy or resentment... I had been in his shoes not that long ago... but at the time, in the back of my mind I knew that what I was doing was way more important than yet another day of surfing. I knew then that the feeling of missing waves would be replaced one day soon with the feeling of missing little kids to raise and teach and care for. And as it turns out... that's true.

But yesterday's session was what it's all about for me now. Chest high with a few head high sets... light offshore, south swell perfection. Had this particular spot all to myself from about 3:00 till dark, thinking... "these are the days." The low, mid-winter sun turning the brown, murky water to gold. Rifling tubes spinning down the sandbar. A solitary loon... a flock of sea ducks. A couple heads in the water a few beaches to the north... another dude out by himself a couple beaches to the south. These are the days. You pay them forward as a new dad.

A set started to rise on the horizon... I paddle out and over, and line up with the end of the rocks. I let the first one go by, and turn for the second... a little more lined up. The tide was approaching dead low... I'd have to find a speed line to make this one. A few long, deep strokes and I feel the surge of power rise up through the bottom of my board. Dropping in I accelerate to the bottom of the wave, turn, and pull up about mid face. Looks good! I tail stall a bit, and drag my hand across the face. The lip folds over ahead of me and I lower my stance... duck my head. The moment becomes timeless. Thoughtless. The oneness of everything reveals itself. A fleeting flash of zen-like flow makes everything disappear... and there's nothing to think about... nothing to ask myself... nothing to process. I'm just there... but in a way, I'm not. The speed of exit shoots me out low onto the shoulder. Bottom turn... set my inside rail for the top... carve a tight arc... and back around into the pocket.

Over the next hour or so, the swell sputters out as daylight fades into dusk. I didn't get another tube after that one... but it's all I can think about walking back to the truck.

These are the days.

 

Every time I miss a day of good surf and conditions, I remind myself, "That is not the last swell ever. The ocean will provide many more swells exactly like that. Then it will be my turn".

 

Well thought and well written. Exactly how I feel on "those days".

 

“These are the days”

 

Great post LB, I am like your neighbor right now. I am writing this on my lunch break, covered in dust from sanding the skim coat I applied yesterday and fighting yet another cold. I was really looking forward to getting wet this weekend ( no kiddo) but life and responsibility has kept me dry again.
I live for my kid. I could move to California and have a much easier life. My family is there, warm weather, ect.. Send the ex her child support and slide on. But I couldn't watch her grow up, be there when she's sick, put on that band aid when she falls, be there for father daughter dance, even just watching sponge Bob with her. So even though I live a stones throw from some of my favorite local breaks, I surf less and less.
And such is life. I felt a little sorry for myself yesterday but I wouldn't change a thing. One day she will grow up and I'm sure I'd rather watch sponge Bob with her than paddle out.
Hope everyone has been scoring! At least I can live vicariously when I can't score myself..
Sorry for thread derailment.

 

It DID look fun as hell yesterday

 

Got out this AM after a long hiatus. For me at least. Been about 2 weeks. Wasn't looking great. Cold. Lot of things going through my head. Im on call, worked late last night, grandmother was given her last rites last night, thinking about my family and other stuff. Honestly wasn't feeling it. It wasn't bad, just not stellar... which was the type of wave i needed to motivate me. A buddy of mine showed up. We checked another spot. Back to the first spot. Then i decided to just go. I want to surf, so surf.

Waves were stomach to chest with a few plus sets. Cross shore winds were light enough. Not perfect glass but clean enough. Sectiony though. Our new sand bars are mirror images of some of the jersey type set up now. Close to shore and shallow. Was going to give it a second look to choose board but decided not to. I just grabbed the 5'7 lost uber driver from the back of the truck and went. I had fun. No long peeling waves but punchy and offered a long enough section to get a solid top turn in before having to bail out. A couple closeouts that at least offered a quick view. I had fun and was glad i made myself go. It's easy to sit on the beach and say "its sectioning off and cold, I'll go home". But deep down i know that won't make me happy. So i fought it. Pushed myself to just go and in the end im happy i did. Always am.

Got back to the truck and saw a few calls came in. Refrigerators and heat to fix. Customers are mad no one called back yet and boss is calling me asking if i got the calls. Oh well. They can wait. Back to reality and work. I will say though. Climbing up onto a commercial buildings roof and realizing your tired and sore from a surf and now have to lug tools and equipment up..... sucks but makes me smile anyway.

 

Sitting in the ATL awaiting boarding. Another week of CR surf under the belt, approx 180 or so waves.

Seems to be typical: 2-3 days challenging / poor conditions, 1-3 days good to epic conditions.

Initial several days were unholy shoulder ville as the NNW swell wrapped around the N headland. Result: constant paddling to attempt to stay on peaks. Trace device pegged me paddling 1.7 miles one session.

Offshore gusts made it a kick forcing self over the ledge on a OH day.

All good. Things cleaned up & settled down towards end of week. Finished with calmer, smaller conditions. No one was complaining.

Good stuff

Pics to follow in a few days.

 

Got two sessions in today in what was left of yesterday's goods. Daybreak right after low tide at my spot, bout thigh to waist high and glassy. Cold. No one else in the water or in sight. Incoming tide gave it some push. Very fun. Got about 90 minutes in and quite a few fun ones.
Went home and thawed out and then went to OCNJ around 11:30 and surfed until 1:00. Bout thigh to pecker high. Mostly longboard-able type waves. Went with an old beat up 7'0 WRV that was laying around the garage. It worked great. Light winds and mostly sunny. Good day. Now I have to take my youngest son and his little girlfriend up to Phiily to see an indoor lacrosse game. Philadelphia Wings?? I dint even know they existed. They play where the Flyers and Sixers play.