who here has been surfing this week?

Spent the day doing some ding repair and polished the deck - flat as glass around here too but I surfed
Jaws in my head. Does that count?

 

Paddling out tomorrow for the first time since double hernia operation the day after Christmas. Full suite and booties will probably kick my arse but I 'm stoked to get back in the water!

 

Stoked for ya, brother... good luck!

 

waist to chest this morning. good lines out there. took 2 boarts, went with the longer of the two since i saw a few with LBs. could tell i was out of shape from the get go, def gonna push myself harder this month with pushups n crunches. anyhow, took along by the pier where no one was n had a handful of rail grabbers n cutbacks. also has a few dives from late drops, the line was moving n hard to find the apex at times. more ppl followed suite but my time was coming up - late to work anyhow. What was predicted over the wknd didn't happen - so this morning was a shot in the dark somewhat n happy i scored for sure. Hope ya guys get as lucky - yeeewww

 

Wednesday while out I yelled like a baby. Water 52, air 68, waves thigh high but fun. Sitting on my board enjoying my "thin privilege" (new fat pride saying) and all of a sudden this freakin roar starts coming at me. I was like holy crap it is a great white, then while whimpering I thought 'do great whites roar?' and at that moment a fighter plane went by at like mock 72 and low. Only 2 things scare me in life, New Jersey and loud noises, this one nearly did me in.

 

Finally got to surf Swami’s. Inconsistent but Really fun right.
I will be back!

 

Surfing snow:

 

Yea...looks fun. I surfed there for the first time 1.5 years ago. It wasn’t that good but it was super fun! That looks so fun!!!

 

Dude where's the crowd lol

The left at Boneyards gets real fun too

 

Monday morning. All those suckers have to be in the office. Not me. I’m the boss now!! Haha

Thumbs up on the left. Got one good one at the end of the session after a bunch of 3-4 turn rights.

 

Felt like a total kook but don't give a fuuk. Back in black give me a few and it all comes back. Body sore but gawg I like it. Any day I catch waves is good. Surf on. Stoked!

 

f you were in south brevard county yesterday I hope you enjoyed those head high sets that came through with regularity! I caught it for about an hour and a half.. rode my tuned mini me and had a blast. empty peaks at the hidden spots , today looks smaller but still fun.. gonna ride my wade 9'2 magic model.

 

Flat again today, as usual.
Winter storm slated for tonight into tomorrow. Hopefully, it will bring waves....

 

not me, still getting over cold from hell. Lungs feeleel like I've been free-basing asbestos.

 

Wow... that sucks, hope you get better soon.

 

Gracias Mano!

 

Tomorrow afternoon looks good.

 

Took the walk to 33’s with my buddy.
Just me and him for two hours around lunch.

Tide was a little high for that spot at 2’ but schockingly amazing session. Wind was dead calm. Solid chest high sets with about 6-10 waves in every set.

Today was a good day of living.

 

It's been a long time since I've surfed that spot.

Had it been infested with Nazbo's yet?

 

I think it’s too far for them. Everyone was at abs. Or subs. It’s hard to keep track of these names.

Is it mallarad or mallum? Scored that one a while back with same buddy I surfed with today.