It was a few foot OH and stiff offshores so there were big barrels today in the dirty souff. This morning was low tide, and bombing way way way way outside. Guys were getting clobbered at the bottom of the drops, so I went to work and waited till after lunch and the incoming tide. The wind swung a bit more out of the SW, holding the lefts wide open. Glad I didn't go out yesterday, my way younger (41) buddy got his shoulder dislocated inside a barrel he didn't make it out of, and he surfs Peru and PR on the regs. Did some yoga instead, to get loose for today. It still looked quite gnarly at the Juno Pier, and Singer Island was a giant ball of bait fish, so I found a spot up in Jupiter that looked more forgiving and peaky, about shoulder to head high. Surfing is as much about confidence as it is about ability, timing, equipment, and conditions. Mine was a bit shaken after last session, so I chose a spot that looked easy on the takeoffs. The last wave I got was a beauty, a smooth hollow shoulder high peak, held wide open by the wind. I had to paddle almost due south to angle in properly, and I paddled hard to get down into the face. Made a real nice smooth drawn out backside bottom turn on my 6'6" NA Pete Dooley round nose round tail. It is FAST and fat. Got a couple off the lips and the face got steeper and bigger, about head high. Did a quick cut back to get back into the pocket, then got a nice off the lip backside and the wind blew me almost out the back, but the board has a round nose so I scooched up front and did a re- entry back into the wave, and got maybe three or four more real nice backside turns, and made it all the way to the sand, and said to myself....time to go back to work...with my swag back. All it takes is one good wave well ridden. Life is goode.