who here has been surfing this week?

alright i'm over summer, fall where you at

 

It's been waist to chest all week... for my daughter.

 

Hey there's always a wave dudes

This one just needs some cat litter and a broom

 

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Hey there's always a wave dudes

This one just needs some cat litter and a broom

 

it got head high alot when i went at it

 

Woohoo! GO BEFORE YOU KNOW-- called for ankle high today. Showed up with the crew at 7:30 a.m. for waist high sets, choppy and pretty short interval. There was only one guy in the water and he looked ecstatic. We had the ocean to ourselves almost a hour . Gradually word got out and by 9:30 there were some great surfers there.

I got two of my best rides ever. Took the waist high wave just right and popped up better than usual. Man, the ride went on forever. The waves began to cleanup by 10:00 and came down some.ran out of gas and left feeling very high.

 

These were all taken within the last 10 days or so. The week before last was really consistent with multiple days chest high + This week is shaping up like doo-doo though with tomorrow morning being are best shot at something half decent.

 

A few more

 

Dang you, Betty with your GO BEFORE YOU KNOW stuff! You don't know how pissed I was to check the cam this AM and see those nice waves. Certainly wasn't the Flat/0-1 that was fourecaste. I tried to surf some of the short period choppe we had here. But between the sargassum, moon jellies and crappy waves it just wasn't getting it done. You still maybe gonna play hooky on Tuesday? I'm probably coming up. I need some decent surf.

Oh yeah, good on you for having a great surf day!

 

Spent last week on Oahu, vainly hoping for summer swell. Although it was fun on 2 days, one being on the east side when we caught the remnants of Guillermo & the second being a waist-high but fun morning back in town at Threes & Pops, it was hardly worth the 10 hour plane ride. And the crowds, wtf. 25 dudes on a peak 15 mins before sunrise...all of 'em little dudes, maybe a buck 50 sopping wet, & all of 'em on 9' & 10' logs.

Diamond Head was much bigger, but the ever-present trades & the crowd made it an oceanic obstacle course.

btw, Honolulu is foul in just about every way. Although some of the restaurants are mackin.'

Today was actually a relief to be back at the-place-that-shall-not-be-named. Puny, munchkin nearly shore pound waves.

But you know what.....? It was just flat-out fun to be at the place-that-shall-not-be-named, working for little angled takeoffs right or left, esp without 30 people sitting on a peak for 12 mins waiting for 2' waves (see: Castle, also Pops in Oahu).
Post-surf with a couple cold ones & some good food with no one around for 50 yds either way = Tranquility Base.

Was a bit taken aback by the trash, litter, cigs, plastics that the summer virus has crapped on the beaches.

Only a few more weeks until Labor Day turns all the Pennsyltucky staycationers into homebodies, and then the place-that-shall-not-be-named cleans up & sparkles.

 

There's no place like home braddah, glad you're back safe.

 

Knee high dribble yesterday on the log. That's the only thing to do on a hot August day. Although I did cut the outline on this before it got too hot.

 

Oh man LBC that outline already has sex appeal

How can I get a LBC twinny fish?

 

Gracias, hermannnoooo! Actually a relief to get back to the wrong coast.

 

A little swell filled in on Delmarva this afternoon...longer period made for some rippable walls. From around 6 tonight.

 

^ good stuff, fun in the east coast summertime sun

 

Sunday around 7:30 AM at Dam Neck (VB) was clean/glassy, 2-3 ft, very slight offshore breeze, and quite a few dolphins chasing breakfast. Air temps in high 60s, water low 80s. For quite awhile, I was the only one out there. When the tide is right, mornings are my favorite time.

 

Sunset sesh last night with the sun setting over the cliffs of Cape Cod.. hadn't been in the water for nearly two weeks due to travel. Light off shores, small but clean lines rolling in.

Paddled out, taking the "circuitous route" way outside of a lineup of ~10-12 surfers, and low and behold, a large wave heading in, that was right after a set cleared out the lineup and I was the only one positioned to get it, as everyone else was too far inside or paddling back out... Caught it perfectly, a right, that provided several turns and re-entries -- perfectly clean and long ride, paddle back out with a dry head. There were several other nice clean rip-able waves, and a good sesh overall, but it it is rare that the first wave is the best wave of the sesh.

Good to be home and get wet again.

 

Well, I took off work today and tomorrow when I read the wave forecast. It was superfun today with 2-3' waves, semi clean, decent interval, came down a bit after two hours. There were lots of rides to be had but this one was just perfect. My pop up worked really well and it was a long ride with some fun bumps in it. Totally made the day. It got pretty crowded after a while, but the lineup was well behaved. I cannot believe how hot the water was, like 85 degrees, 90 air. Had to roll off the board a lot just to cool down.

As we were leaving I ran into Valhalla who was pretty fried from his long drive up from the Keys. I hope he got some nice mellow rides. Maybe he will chime in when he recovers.

 

Well, I didn't drive straight from the keys though I kinda felt like it. I did stop at home to get not quite five hours of sleep. I almost didn't go but the alternative was not surfing for the foreseeable future. After two plus weeks of nothing that wasn't a viable option.

At last I got a chance to try my new board in something other than choppe. I am so comfortable on it now. The waves seemed to drop a bit but picked up again as the tide went out with fun peaks up and down the beach. The crowd also thinned out by mid afternoon maybe due to the ominous thunderstorm that never made it to the beach. It was easy to find my own space. I've had days with longer rides but I was doing things today I haven't done before and with confidence and no hesitation. I was having such fun I didn't want to get out of the water but finally did around five being thoroughly spent.

I entered the day with some apprehension, tired as hell and not in the best frame of mind. All that fell by the wayside after two waves. Seven hours later I was both exhausted and rejuvinated. Betty, thanks for encouraging me to come. It was so worth it! I'm gonna pay for it tomorrow, though.

Life is good! I feel sorry for people that don't surf.