who here has been surfing this week?

This morning I checked a few spots, but most looked weak and not much happening although there was swell on the buoy. It was mid incoming tide too so you would think it would be working, but it wasn't very appealing.

I went to one last spot a little further North and found it breaking a little better there but still not that great. I grabbed my 6'4" Flashback Fish and paddled out anyways, being that it was a nice morning and the work I had already put in to find a spot I figured why not.

I spent 20 minutes paddling around looking for a peak that was working. It wasn't really breaking on the outside or even the mid section, it was all happening on the inside, AKA shorepound.

I finally settled in on a peak that gave me a dozen or so rides. Mostly quick dumpy waves in the waist - chest range, but it was glassy-ish so there was that. I got a few fun lefts, a handful of closeouts, one really good drop that I landed and then schwacked the lip with a snap, another one I was able to do a little turn on since I finally found a decent shoulder before it closed out. There was one closeout that I took off on right as it was pitching and I got dumped lol, Kinda got womped a little bit and that was probably the most fun I had all morning. Beautiful weather today, a dolphin swam right next to me within 3-5 feet of me. Not the best waves, but a nice session regardless.

 

Fun little sesh this morning. Damn small though. Knee to thigh high. Light offshores. Warm (relatively speaking) with air in the mid to low 30s. I head down to check it out regardless since I'm up around 5 every morning and have nothing else to do. It looked fun. Small like i said but super clean and nice lines. The lower tide had it walling up a bit. I was listening to hall and oates on the drive over. Don't ask me why, but hall and Oates gets me AMPED. So all amped up I'm like.....yeah, let's do it. Checked one other peak further down the beach but it wasn't doing it. Quickly changed and grabbed the new single fin i shaped. I had the mini sims, but i'l comment on that later.

One other guy paddled out just as i was. My arch nemesis. He's actually a friendly guy but i stumbled upon his surfing vlog one day. He basically tries to be ben gravy to the point that it's embarrassing, and he puts the better breaking peaks out there. No one's really seeing his vlog i guess but it's the point. Anyway, he's friendly so i don't mind being in the water with him. Caught a few fun little gliders.

The single fin has its wide point pushed forward, is wide, low rocker, and plenty of foam in the front of the board. I wanted it for waist/chest mellow rollers were you can get into that single fin flow. But it works great in these tiny waves. I can ride it pretty far up the board. Cheater 5s are totally doable on this guy. The mini works great too, but for waves this small were your not doing turns, i think i prefer this single fin. It's a fun ride.

My arch nemesis got out. I caught one more, then it just turned off. Ofcourse. He leaves and takes the waves with him. That's an arch nemesis for you. Got out happy. Nothing special. But enough to put a smile on my face.

 

Weak windswell this morning, it was struggling to break, I went to where it should have been breaking the best given the swell angle but after 30-45 minutes of paddling and searching I decided to get out and try another spot with a better bottom, bit of reef I thought may help, it did, barely, I got one wave in an hour and 15 minutes. I was the only moron out at either spot. Swell on the buoy but it isn’t showing at the beach for some reason. The bottoms are messed up at a lot of spots I think. We need a NE swell to mix things up and get some bars out there.

 

dims?

 

Go to the shaping thread, pictures of the whole board from start to finish.

It's 5'7 (and a half) x 21 x 2.5, diamond tail, single into double with vee.

 

Hey DP, what sort of wetsuite are you guys wearing down there now? The Sebastian Inlet cam is part of my morning surf check and it looked like some cats were wearing full suites last week. I didn't think it got that cold there.

 

I had a crappy session yesterday, started with bringing the wrong board and then just had no luck getting in right position when the soft waves came. So today I was hoping to make up for it, but nothing was breaking anywhere. There are a lot of throughs right now and the waves aren't powerful enough to break over them. Ended up just skating. I think we do need a good Noreaster swell, and have it blowing out for about an entire week

 

Surf has finally dropped down to the 5'-6' range around here, so I'm gonna run down and take a stab at it this afternoon after low tide

looks to stay in the stomach-to-head range all week, with all day offshores so hopefully the Fucast remains constant

 

Had some fun long rides today and stopped at the favorite spot for food

 

delmarva started out funky with a bunch of wind and rain plus high tide in the morning. By mid afternoon the dropping tide and better wind really helped. Plus the swell kind of built a bit. Surfed from 1-3 got out and shot these. A while later the sun came out and it got beautiful out but by then the bottoming out tide and stiff offshores were sucking the juice out of the swell.

Sequence of some dude getting a sweet one:

 

Jersey was kinda going off this afternoon, where I was at least. Buoy jumped to a solid 6ft @8 seconds. There were these perfect chest to head high sets coming through. Line up was very tame and I was at a popular spot too.

Pulled into some little tubes and fully made one doggy door. All before I took a beating on one set wave and the shoulder aids came out in full effect. Complete sesh and buzz killer. (Will post in other tread for advise.) I took pics when I couldn’t surf. I’m hurtin still, but the stoke is stronger than the pain!

 

Same here in NJ, my backyard went off for the last 3 hours of the day. These pics were taken before the sess and it only got better. The paddle out was a bit of a b-tch but once I found the hole that didn't drift sideways it was game on. Seemed consistent head high. Water is def warmer than usual for this time of year. Buttery.

 

Washout this past Saturday was a bit disorganized. not even 10am, my buddy n i were pretty convinced we were about to grab a beer. decided to check a different spot, a bit more covered from the winds. sure enough, waist hi peelers all along. also, nobody was out there. Took out the LBs and easily caught 20 or so waves each in our hour span. We were talking earlier about how great is to score with nobody out in the water, and didn't imagine it happening thereafter. Both of us had some nice drops n turns throughout. Last wave had him going to the right and backside while i went left n frontside straight for the jetty rocks n turning last sec to ride out a bit to my right. it was a great way to cap off the session and get my saturday right off to a good start

 

Right now, Monday AM, we have shoulder high some head high waves. Air Temp 34F; water temp 38F; offshore wind 40-50MPH!!! So.....fuck off, ocean!!

 

Finally got out in some fun 2-4 clean surf with no crowd!

 

Yea... yesterday after the wind switch it got pretty dang goode. Current was a killer, but good waves.

Been a pretty consistent couple of weeks 'round here.

 

Fully agree with that assessment. Actually described it to a buddy the next day as "felt like a fun medium size day during hurricane season, but with a fraction as many people." Perfect swell angle where I was at, super glassy, downright comfortable thanks to the higher air temps, incredible light just before sunset. Had to be fully moved out of my house by the end of the day Thursday, so only got out long enough to get two waves, and wasn't in quite the right spot on either, but still stoked.

Missed yesterday, but got a slightly-funner-than expected knee+ session this morning (not good, but not completely flat like I thought when I heard the wind at 530). Between the howling wind and the minimal size I'd have skipped it under normal circumstances, but had to go as it's most likely my last session as a NJ resident (this time at least... I keep moving away and then coming back), based on the current forecast for this week. Got 5 or 6 little cruisers in a half hour, no one else anywhere around for fairly obvious reasons. But I had fun. Thursday as soon as I'm out of work I'm driving one-way to downtown Boston. Technically I already live there... we are pretty much fully moved in to our apartment now, and closed on our house here last Friday. Now it's just me down here solo, finishing out the last week of work here while crashing with parents/friends.

I'm bummed to leave such a logistically favorable situation for regular surfing (east coast consistency issues notwithstanding), but pretty stoked about exploring the New England coastline. And no, I won't be changing my name here anytime soon... in my mind I'm always in Jersey, no matter where I go. Which is to say, I am down for a bench-off anytime, any place. And if I'm running late for said bench-off, I will run your ass off the road if I have to.

 

finally got out for the first time since january yesterday, took the longbort out in some inconsistent 2-3'. Was fun, feel human again...