who here has been surfing this week?

Another spring break session with a couple dozen of my closest friends. Waves everywhere else were marginal, this was one of the only spots where at draining low tide there was a vertical section or two. Very wonky with an underlying north swell aboot 4 ft and a SE wind 15 mph blowing it out and making for some random peaks.

Peajay ... this threade makes me think when I get out of the water, what was the unique thing or two that made this encounter with riding a wave on a board special. Two things today, beside a few nice quick drops and some weird lines in warm salt and sun -

A beautiful bodacious blonde was the only female out there, and it was hard not to stare. She looked like Darryl Hannah, and I caught a long wave all the way in and when I paddled back out she planed out on the takeoff, then when the wave died down she stood up in the whitewater and surfed for a couple yards, it was surprising, I figured she was a shredder.

Then I caught another one all the way in, and walking back out the shallows, there was a guy with a SUP out past me a bit, and when a bitty reform came thru he let the boart go, and I saw it before it happened and easily dodged it. He was young, but had a hipster beard, so I gave him some grief, stored up from the day before, no doubt.

I yelled loud enough for the lineup to hear - "Yo! Kook! Get ahold of your board. Grab a hold of the board fucker!" He went down the beach. I felt kinda bad for going all aggro, but he was old enough to have a teaching moment.

On the way out of the parking lot, he was loading up his SUP on his hipster mobile (actually a nice P/U Truck) and I drove by and apologized for getting all mean, but told him he was a hazard and I had to say something. He apologized and said he deserved it. All smiles and no worries on the way out.
'
God please let it break good somewhere else tomorrow!!!

Life is still goode LOL.

 

One more thing...there is a guy who I see at the spot all the time who can surf really good, we usually get there in the late pm - he looks like the caveman from the Geico commercials - I see him and then going thru my head ..."Every where I go..."



Is that you Kyle?

 

Looks like the T’s will be working on the incoming, no?

 

Fun waves this afternoon and extended daylight too.

Went in at the reef, and wabaaaam! Mistimed my entry through the reef and got drilled by the shorebreak. All good. Except 5 minutes into my session I feel something scratching my arm each stroke, and lo and behold I find this

 

I surfed a lot today. Made some $$ too.
The si forum mods are kooks and need to pump the brakes on the banning button.

Shoots.

 

when you surf alone its hard to do that.. even for you.

 

Damn that suuuucks. Fixable but damn!

 

Just kidding!

 

Digging the chined rail.

 

Caught some mediocre waves on the Fish this morning. Water is about 70 degrees and felt awesome. Too bad the surf is still weak, soft, slow, mushy poo. I saw a guy on a LB doing slightly better than I was but not by much, his rides looked painfully slow. On my ride home I got stuck behind every slow driver in Melbourne. Either they appeared to be lost or they were so stoned they were paranoid and thought cops were following them. But hey, I "surfed" today.

 

Cam rewind lol

 

I am ready for 70˚ water but (checks calendar) I guess I have to wait another 5 months. Hood season is winding down at least.

 

Good work starting the #1 thread on SI.

 

Its always the simple but relevant ideas that become the most successful.

 

This threadde makes me want to surf, even more so than before it was incarnated, so I'd call it inspirational. All youze guys and all ya'll keep the stoke alive. We are truly a bunch of lucky people. Sick in the head? So what.

 

Plus 10 dogg

 

Sometimes i catch a wave and as i kick out and paddle back to the line up im think to myself "yeah that's the one i'll be posting about later".