who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. NJsurfer30

    NJsurfer30 Well-Known Member

    193
    Dec 28, 2016
    Hell yeah I was! Ended up meeting both MrBigglesworth and NotAMasshole today (can finally confirm that at least a couple of the users on here are actual people) and definitely a huge thanks to both for the warm welcomme and hospitality. Pretty stoked to get one of my longest rights in recent memory, maybe in memory period within about 60 hrs of becoming a New England resident. Definitely a bitch of a paddle out today... 3-5 times as long as any beach break I’ve surfed before except OBSF, and water was def noticeably chillier than it was in Jersey a week ago... but well worth the effort even if I only got one good wave in an hour and a half (timing these waves confused the hell out of me and my second paddle out mentioned in MrB’s post was followed by about an hour of paddling around missing waves, then getting caught inside by a very cold three wave set, and finally catching a wave way too late and just coming in on the whitewater). All good though... learning the spot and the waves is a big part of the fun and I am about 100x more stoked to have moved up this way after just that one ride.
     
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  2. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    My local was totally off its nut today. Picture perfect long long walls and tubes, head to head and a half easily...And consistent. Yesterday's crowd was non-existent, just me and a half-dozen of the boys. Not one closeout, not one blown wave. One of the top 2 days I've surfed this joint. I'm still geeking out over it.

    I'm all over it tomorrow, more on tap.

    As they say in SI's most famous treadde, "life is goode."
     

  3. NotAMasshole

    NotAMasshole Well-Known Member

    71
    Jan 6, 2016
    Hell ya guys. Yesterday was a fun one. Bit disorganized but patience was rewarded. Met up with NJsurfer30 for his first day (as a resident) up in NE. Weather was almost 40 and sunny most of the day which helped a lot with the navy seal training paddle outs. I managed to get a double session in as well thanks to the heat from the sun. Having an extra pair of boots to change into this time of year makes a big difference. Surfed our point in the morning on a shortboard. Made some big drops, connected a couple long lefts, and took some rights towards the wall that resulted in a pounding trying to get back out. Current was so strong that I was just floating in the boneyard and getting sucked all the way to the channel for next trip out. Got almost 2 hrs there and managed to save some energy for round 2. Went home and warmed up (never took off my suit) ate a bunch of peanut butter had some more coffee, grabbed the longboard and went down to the main beach. Paddled up to NJsurfer on the outside. Managed to get a few good ones, and the last one was money. All the OG's chilling on the break wall were stoked on my last wave when I came out, which is always reassuring. What a beautiful sunny day. It's incredible what the sun can do for your overall vibe, especially when the water is 38. Today we have a foot plus of fresh snow- what a difference a day makes. Hope yall got some.
     
  4. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    Long paddle outs in winter up here are so painful. After 3 duck dives my head feels like it's going to explode. Fun waves yesterday. Took the big boy 7'6" board out, sat way outside, and picked off some nice sets. Got caught inside before I wanted to call it a day, but couldn't bear the thought of the 10+ duck dives to get back out, so retreated to a hot shower.
     
  5. mattinvb

    mattinvb Well-Known Member

    593
    Sep 9, 2014
    Got out the other day for the first time since I was in PR (Came home to a family that all had the flu which I caught a week later), finally felt good enough to surf saturday. It was cold and overcast, but went to check my usual go to spot. Waist high at best...mediocre. was having a hard time getting motivated. Convinced my friend to check another spot. Bingo, chest high with the once in a blue moon head high set and only a few guys out. Crowd dropped to 4 people all spread out within 10 minutes of me paddling out. Nice little afternoon session with a couple people I know. 20190302_133700.jpg 20190302_133703.jpg
     
  6. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Dammit, I knew I should have come down!
     
  7. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    Yeah dude, that was a fun one to watch for sure!
    At one point we all cringed but you held on and made it. Looked epic from shore
     
  8. MrBigglesworth

    MrBigglesworth Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2018
    Navy Seal training is a great way to describe it I’d say lol
    That shot to the head took most of the steam out of me. The outside was the right place to be for sure
     
  9. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Had some fun on Saturday, surf was def bigger than what I saw forecasted. Ran into Mitchell and chatted for a bit. Water is cold, I am ready for a little warm up!

    Surf 3.jpeg Surf 1.jpeg
     
  10. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening? Digging the stories and the meet ups. Good stuff.

    Had a great surf on Saturday myself. It was snowing at dawn. Not a superstorm or anything. Just snow. Scrapped an early go out. I could say it was for good reasons like I wanted to let my special lady sleep in after a night shift. Or that I that wanted to get my kids out in the snow before it was gone. But it would be a lie. I just didn't want to go looking for surf in the storm. I had a limited window because Grandma was coming over for a visit. So my deviant self devised a plan that was based in the Safety of my Ma. I couldn't let her drive here in this. I would drive to her and bring her out. And it wouldn't hurt if I got a surf along the way during the better tide, wind, and weather.

    I did just that. Wife slept in, made a snowman and ate a good breakfast. Then a good stretch and suited up. I also relied on a friend who did go and drive around early to give me the goods so I didn't even have to do any recon. I didn't check it. Just got my board and showed up to the break in the middle of the morning with the sun out and a fairly empty line up. Felt like a tourist.

    The swell was head high, glassy and had a nice angle. Pretty much like Bassmon said about Sunday with regards to the shape. But just a little bigger. Quick barrels at take off and then some wall. Easy paddle outs with a bit of a sweep on the inside. I would just go with it and drift into three peaks then catch one in, walk back and do it again. Caught a bunch of good waves every drift.

    Rode a proper SB for the first time in a while using fins at the high end of the ride #. I like the feel out of the bottom turn. Like a slingshot. Also felt very connected to the wave after surfing the fish so much. Dropped in with confidence. So much so that my last wave I got completely annihilated. I was thinking about getting out to go get Grandma. A bomb came out of nowhere and I just went stupid deep and late right into a body slam. It hurt.

    Got Grandma. Funny how the snow disappeared and she could have totally drove herself. But who knew? The weather-dudes over-hyped. Headed back and had a Great visit. Grandma was staying over to babysit while the lady and I got to see Lyle Lovett and John Hiatt do their thing. Good show. Missed Sunday morning leftovers but had a great breakfast and drove mom home.

    Hoping for more waves and stories soon. Good job guys.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2019
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  11. foamieswithmyhomies

    foamieswithmyhomies Well-Known Member

    379
    Sep 18, 2014
    the beach erosion is getting insane there
     
    Zeroevol likes this.
  12. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    yeah, it changes all the time
     
  13. foamieswithmyhomies

    foamieswithmyhomies Well-Known Member

    379
    Sep 18, 2014
    hopefully we'll be surfing by hammerheads in a few months
     
    Zeroevol likes this.
  14. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Super clean fun ones yesterday 'till it got too deep.

    I think I have permanent armpit rash.
     
    Kanman likes this.
  15. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Yesterday afternoon was a complete surprise for me. Rainy north wind conditions in the morning...busy day...gave up on surfing. Left my gear at home - kiss of death! But the forecast was like waist high at most. By mid afternoon the sun was out, wind offshore and sets were pushing shoulder high. Worst of all...it was a rare northeast swell with a bunch of lefts in the middle of a winter of south swell rights. Took a few shots after work all the while kicking myself for being so stupid but stoked for all of the people who were scoring, including a few SI members.

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  16. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Cool pic of the Gull posted up and the peak!
     
  17. goofy footer

    goofy footer Well-Known Member

    431
    Sep 23, 2010
    Yep, usual winter profile, the southern swells will begin piling the sand above the scarp line late spring. That local spot has done well for 5 1/2 years since the 2013 beach fill with fine sand.
     
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  18. desandan

    desandan Well-Known Member

    154
    Feb 12, 2013
    Nice, yesterday afternoon was way more fun than I expected too. However, that water is cooooold. The lefts were some of the best I have seen in a while out here. There was maybe 3 total surfers in the water which surprised me.
     
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  19. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    a lil nor'easter throwback. I love surprise swells.
     
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  20. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    There is a spot - Sand Key - a few miles west of Key West, it has a light, and a reef and breaks on a good south swell.
     
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