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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
This is about as small of a wave is I can ride with this board
When I do everything right...
When I feel connected to the wave through my feet...
Something releases inside me and I feel real joy...
Time slows down and all I see is potential. For me...
That’s why I love it so much and that’s why I want to share it. Because maybe it will give someone else some of those things and then your not alone in it.
Sorry so heavy - having a very heavy moment and need some help carrying it.
Peace and waves Buoys
Went down to RI. I parked at one spot, got all my crap on, board out and waxed and then a local cop rolls up and starts ticketing. In March, WTF. Drove up the road and paddled out there instead, lots of guys out getting some good waves. Surfed poorly, had a good time anyways, got a burger. Good morning out all in all.
It'd be a hassle but I could see getting a beater bike with a surf rack so I could park somewhere legal, then ride over to the break on the bike. There's a few spots where this might be handy honestly but probably too much of a pain in the ass to bother with...
My low tide spot was actually ride-able today. Even with the HOWLING west winds. Got it for about 2 hours from dead low until around 1:00 PM. Some pretty decent little waves were making it through. Thigh to stomach high with that awesome offshore spray. A good first day back after my small hiatus.
Some other notes from today:
Ocean City NJ was blown out and tiny. Yet, there I was, just a mile south of Corsons Inlet catching waves all by myself. I may have been the only person in Souf Jerzey surfing today. That's pretty cool.
I was so stunned to find ride-able waves, albeit at my regular spot, in that crazy wind, that I suited up, put on my boots and mittens, grabbed my already waxed board, paddled out, and caught a wave..... before realizing that I never zipped up my chest zipper. Yes, I was able to get zipped up while floating on my board wearing mittens. I got mad skillz.
Not once, not twice, but thrice the wind blew my board back at me after kicking out. The last time the middle fin came within inches of shreading my cheek and shoulder. My face be way too pretty for that ish yo.
Ha, first chance I've had to log on in a bit. Opened this threade first and hit some likes, then realized they were to posts from the 3rd. It felt like forever since the last chance I got to surf, but didn't realize it was that long.
Anyway, spring break season sucks bigg'uns, and we've had a prolonged flat spell. Then yesterday we had swell but the wind out of the south had it blown to sheete and back so moring sesh wasn't happening.
Then around 2:00 the wind changed and glassy lines were rolling in. As soon as I saw it, I hit a realm of depression because I couldn't leave and knew I was missing the opportunity of the month.
Was able to finally run out of work around 6:15 with only about 45 min of light. Made it to my spot, didn't even mess with putting on the wetsuite. Got 3 nice, long rides in, then paddled back in the twilight just before dark.
Wish I could of hit it early as the size had dropped some, but it just aboot all of the anxiety of being stuck at work and watching waves that I could not ride.
Saturday 7-9am was the window for central jerz. One of the smaller sessions and almost did not get out of bed as the cam look like crap. Fun waist to stomach little runners. Had one of those surprise tiny nugget barrels on maybe a 3ft wave as the tide dipped. Wave count was high. This session reminded me its always worth going even when in doubt.
Was way better than I anticipated Saturday morning. Checked a spot that had a bunch of dudes on it and decided to go elsewhere... a spot you can't see or get to unless you take a long walk. Was gonna bring the log, but decided to grab the fish instead just because I didn't want to walk that far with a longboard wagging in the wind.
Glad I opted for the fish... waist to chest high rights, with the occasional shoulder high wave. Pulled into a bunch... made two, one of which was really good. I was thinking about that Brett Barley video about tuberiding... his "hug the wall" technique on what he refers to as high and tight barrels. I realize that's sort of what I do... sort of. I like to get my cheek right next to the face of the wave in those kind of tubes. Kind of the same thing he was talking about... just a different way to reference it, I guess.
Spring is finally here, wax em up Floridians!
Been a rough couple of weeks out of the water for me. Shoulder injury is holding me back. I’m probably gonna cave and try to pick off a few waves on the foamie Friday afternoon. I hope it’s nice out. Might be one of my last sessions before potential surgery and 5 months out of the water....
I do enjoy reading the treade though. I am a bit jealous. It’s nice to visualize some of the fun sessions being discussed.
Took a few shots of my buddy last Sunday. Weather was pretty funky and the waves were too, but it was good to be next to the ocean.
Got out in some 3-5'+ this AM, got a few good rides but feel pretty out of shape. This winter has kind of sucked...
Fun mid morning sesh in Delray/boca area. Winds stayed lighter than expected outta the north and the swell started to get some juice once the tide began to push. Had one especially good long left with a few healthy backside hacks in crystal blue water. Love going rubber free in March!
was not expecting to get wet this week but now Friday is lining up to be another fun shot of swell
hoping the swell turns up this evening. winds should be shifting at any minute to make it lest sideshore n more direct. got a buddy back in town filming for a show, gave him some extra booties n gloves n kept his wetsuit from a year ago when he left it on folly. also, supermoon while surfin could make all things epic. waxing the bottom of my booties in anticipation
Yeah, if the forecast holds, my weekend begins tomorrow at lunch, and then take off Friday and head south to rodanthe
We may not have known how to spell Shaun Tomson at the time, but we knew who we liked...along with MR! Going through some old photos....this little guy was hanging from the ceiling in our crappy apt. in downtown OCMD, circa 1980. Twin fins....I guess we werent up to speed on the latest tri fin technology coming out of Australia!
Tropicaltidbits.com Looks like a strong start for Spring !
we called out earlier in the week for a big wednesday evening sess at the Washout. one dude dropped out still stuck hi n dry up in mtP. took it to 11th, perhaps expecting a drift down south. it stuck well tho, long rollers chest hi. took a min for me to dial in, buddy's board was 2ft longer n he was killin it off the start. i took real close to the jetty cuz my board seen it n felt it before. had a good time, felt chilly late into the sunset. this morning however were for the big bouyz. couple streets down on electric, first in the water, head hi+ sets long n clean. very selective for the short morning, a handful caught. 3 that stuck to mind, carving turkey to the right - ez to do on the loehr twin fin fish. bunny hopped one down to the left then back to the right, almost in that easter spirit i guess. then backside left on a head hi set, one of the bigger ones on a backside in a while. saw some good friends in and out of the water. no bad spills or deep duck dives, all is swell
I'm starting to think the surfline algorithm is tweaked by someone who lives on Cape Ann because Surfline always predicts crap waves up there even when SI shows 4+' and clean. We'll see what's doing tomorrow.
Today was F-U-N! Finally a decent groundswell typical winter day. Surfed just south of the Cocoa pier and had the place to myself for the most part. 3-5' groundswell with stiff offshores. Water temp felt about low 60s, air temp mid 70s
It was probably a little bigger further south but inside the cape is always cleaner with NW winds. Full moon made positioning crazy - it felt like I was having to sit in a different spot every 10 minutes with that tidal swing.