who here has been surfing this week?

BTW, Betty, there were some fellers in the grey suites lurking over near the rocks. I saw a couple of little guys and some barrycudas but others said they saw a six fotter. Blacktip or spinner. I dunno, I don't worry much about the ones I can't see so why worry a lot about the ones I can. Besides the water's clear so not much chance of mistaken identity. Anyway, just a heads up for your sesh tomorrow. Have fun girl!

 

Sounds like you totally had fun and were rewarded for pushing yourself to drive up.

We went out again today and scored some great waist high rides. The water was more orderly and cleaned up today. I think I got my best ride ever on my new board. Even better than yesterday. I didn't know I could pop up on a bigger wave and stay with it through the drop and bullet fast ride. It will hold me through the upcoming predicted flat weekend,

 

Another sick DP, thanks to 11-E. That tiny swirl of tropical energy must have been on just the perfect path, because it's been Head High, peaky, and consistent for the past two dawnies. I've seen CAT-4 hurricanes that don't work this well.

Yesterday it was me and two other dudes who bailed about 20 minutes after I paddled out. Today the lineup was clogged with maybe 7 whole bodies, most of them familiar faces. It was light offshore under the marine layer. There was no sand to speak of, so just jump off the seawall between sets, paddle like a madman, and hope for the best.

Maybe a hair smaller today, but peakier and throwing on the inside. I skinned it, and that felt great! Nothing amazingly memorable, but I did get a nice inside 4-5 second barrel. As I was getting ready to pack it in, an outside set walled up. I was down beach and outside from the crew, and sprinted for it, with them hooting me in. Haha, felt great to make that big exhibition drop and bottom turn down a nice clean face. It was a little walled, so I couldn't do much with it after that. Scrambling out over s--tty sharp rocks sucked, though. Didn't get battered, but it was a near thing.

 

Yeah, Betty, I was rewarded. Go before you know. Or just go. It's always better than it looks. If in doubt paddle out.

Glad you got some more today. Isn't progress wonderful? You can get stuck at a certain plateau and then things just click and you're onto the next level. Just gotta keep at it. That's the good thing about starting later in life. We continue to progress while those who've been at it for awhile are now regressing.

 

Nice way to look at it Val!

 

This is what it's about Cdog. Nothing like when the stars align for a fun surf!!!

 

Good stuff swellers, keep it up. Hopefully we'll get some action down here soon.

 

DP today at the-place-that-shall-not-be-named = fun. Not epic but just tons of surfing & fun.

Glassy for hours, waist high, really clean peeling at times, kinda long lulls at times but that's ok paddle in a bit & surf the smaller ones, bathtub temp water & majorly less # of people in the water as compared to any summer weekend day.
Mitchell probably has pics from up the coast a bit....?

 

Jersey was bigger cuz jersey is better... Surfed till noon then back to building , sooo tired!!

 

How tired?

 

Nah...surfed well over three hours in the same glassy waist high conditions as you got. Would have loved to have snapped a few from the water...could have gotten some nice shots as lined up as the lefts were but didn't shoot any and the south wind had come up by the time we wrapped up at noon.

 

The fucast was spot-on today, including the wind change (as you noted) from the S at mid-day. Still rideable even then but much longer lulls than this morn.

I need to get some pics of these days.

Was the big lefty up there with youse guys?

 

Serious question, bradface: have you ever surfed outside of dirty Jerz, if so where?
Second question, do you have a passport & have you utilized it on a trip for the sole purpose of surfing?

 

Good day in NE Florida. Lined up thigh-waist high peelers with a lil bit of period. Fish worked good and got some turns and floaters. Nothing special but enough to get the legs loose and warmed up for the rest of the week. Bring it on.

 

Pretty solid day overall in EMass. Stomach to chest on many. The sneakers were shoulder to head but infrequent and you never saw them coming as they'd be the fourth in a set of six nowhere near the size. The evening sesh was dope. 3-4 feet and glassy. More 3-fotters than 4.

Tell you what - I dialed that 5'8 Coil Megamind in beyond belief. Hadn't paddled out with it in almost a year. Wow. Really found its sweet spot. Can't wait to ride it a bunch now in the right conditions and also look into getting one shaped. Unless CL has a dope one somewhere.

4 hours of surfing yesterday and 2 the night before. Close to 50 rides in 3 sessions. I'm happy.

 

For real Yankee next meaty swell we should make a effort to surf in the same line up with Bill , no hostility just an all out shred fest. Then maybe the respect levels would fall in place where they belong. As for my travels no passport yet but Im lookin to travel alot in the up comin years, I have alot of friends in rad spots I need to go see.

 

Huh?? You have friends???

 

o barry


This thread is getting even longer, Peajay started it.


Dancin' with Blanch and them b!tches


#9/12

 

Scored DP this morn in spite of unfavorable forecast and tide. However, the onshore wind stayed low. Arrived at one off my go to spots at dawn to see some clean rip-able waves, but no one in, but a couple bro's pulled in the lot. We headed out as the fog rolled in, paddled by a group of seals, which added to the "sketch factor" .. from outside could barely see the sets coming in and could not see the shore to line things up, which added some extra challenge. Nonetheless, scored some nice fun waves, somewhere around shoulder high, lefts and rights, surfed for about an hour.

Glad I got up and went for it...eliminating the turmoil of doubt and resulted in a short but good sesh.

#BeenSurfingThisWeek

 

I love those foggy days! It's like surfing in the field of dreams! Ever see that movie?