who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    I used to love paddling for a wave on a big swell in the winter with the hood up and strong offshores, just to not catch it or pull out..... the sound the spray makes as it pelts you on your hooded head. I thought it was wild. The downside..... not catching the wave.
     
    MrBigglesworth and Zeroevol like this.
  2. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    The wind speed makes the difference--20mph, no problem. 40-45 with gusts up to 50mph, fun is gone. That is what you are seeing in that photo. Also, air temps were probably 20-25*F...wind chill sucks. As one gets older, we lose a lot of our insulation; we get colder wayyyy easier!!
     

  3. FUN

    FUN Well-Known Member

    830
    Aug 28, 2014
    o barry
     
  4. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Yes i am well aware. 20-25 sounds nice compared to some past winters. Line toy said, wind has been crazy this year. My cut off used to be 30mph. Now it's 20.
     
    JTS likes this.
  5. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Just got back from a fun session on the LB with moderate wind onshore / sideshore out of the SE.

    It was bumpy, lumpy, and chunky but when the sets came the wave face was semi clean. Some lefts, some rights. The left’s were longer and had better lines.

    It was mostly chest high with some peaks in the shoulder / head high range and those were breaking waaaaaay outside and if you played your cards right there was loooooong ride that connected all the way to the inside.

    Should be a little better in the morning but if it’s the same I won’t be mad. Pretty damn fun!
     
  6. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    More chest high waves this morning with sets pushing shoulder to head high way outside. Conditions were a little cleaner than yesterday but still a little bumpy.

    It was really fun on the fish, my first wave was the best wave. I caught it waaaaay outside, made several turns, up and down the face with speeeed! I let out a howl as I kicked out, but nobody heard me I’m sure since I was the only person in the water LMAO

    I caught many waves after that but none compared. The rest of the session was a lot of searching and trying to get in position because it was a bit shifty, drifty, and chunky. Just when I thought I had paddled far enough out, and I was way way outside, another wave would break even further out. The fisherman on the beach looked tiny lol

    I got so much water in my nose, ears, and I accidentally drank some too, making me gag till it came back up. Good times! I guess it resembled beer foam and thought I’d take a swig. What can ya do? :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2019
  7. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Went down and looked at it early this morning... looked fun, but weak. Lazy south swell rolling in... pretty clean but gutless. Looked about waist high around low tide. But there was nobody out, so I went home, suited up, and grabbed the log.

    Took the long walk down the beach to a spot I've been going to a lot lately and paddled out. Seemed like the swell bumped up a notch or two over the next hour, to the point where I felt bringing the longboard was a mistake. Solid chest to shoulder high waves started coming in fairly regularly... still not much power, but enough to make these glassy little thin-lipped barrels you could squeeze into.

    Got one good one... backdoored a nice wedging peak and pulled straight in. Something about getting tubed on a longboard... so smooth and fast... like a big, heavy a lowrider Cadillac. Find your line... set your rail... get your feet in the right spot... and let the wave do the rest.

    Sometimes having the wrong board ends up being a happy accident.
     
  8. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Maybe in reality it was the right boart? I’d say so if you pulled into a tube. It really does feel different on a LB, in a good way.
     
  9. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    mid morning low tide was ridable but weak. Clean but just waist high and not much push. paddled out anyway thinking the incoming tide would boost things. Around 11 a.m. (2 hours after low) things starting improving a lot. after 2.5 hours my arms were shot. got out and shot some pics of the kids having a blast.

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  10. CJsurf

    CJsurf Well-Known Member

    Apr 28, 2014
    Went up and watched my son and daughter surf yesterday but wasn't very motivated. Foggy with some shoulder high mushy waves coming through. On a positive note both of them wore 3/2 suits with 3mm boots and gloves and they were fine for a couple of hours. This is in southern NJ by the way.
     
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  11. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Story of my life this winter.... weird day. Woke up at 5 to some THICK fog. Buoy was for somthing at 8 seconds, just a breath of onshore wind, outgoing tide. Had my 5'8 and 5'7 packed. Seems silly when i say that but the 5'8 is more suited for weaker conditions and the 5'7 is pretty high performance. Rolled up to the beach around 6. Fog wasn't lifting. Looked at it from the dune.... couldn't see a thing. Walked to the waters edge. Could only make out white water/face. I saw some lines but couldn't tell if it was weak or standing up or what. Grabbed the 5'7 and got on it.

    One of those disappointing days. Face was clean. Waves were waist to chest high. Tide was good for the spot. But put it all together and it was just unorganized. I like to describe it as breathing. The waves were breathing alot. Waves you thought were too soft walled up, waves you thought looked good flattened out. The longer lines were super sectiony. The short better looking ones went from soft to walled up to soft erratically. Had no idea where you were with the fog. Inside or outside. No idea. Was definitely drifting east but couldn't tell how far/fast . Spent the whole session basically rolling the dice and hoping for the best.

    Did get a few decent ones, couple sloppy turns. The waves were breathing so much it was tough to really set anything up. I caught a really weak shoulder. Immediately kicked out. Found i was in thigh deep water. Laid belly down and hugged the sand as a few sets broke on top of me. And that was that. Nice to get in the water. Had fun. But was hoping for a better "classic" type session. Still havnt really got to put the 5'7 through its paces. Seems everytime i surf it it's closing out or wonky. It'll happen eventually.
     
  12. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    What a weekend! After 7-8hrs of water time from Friday - Sunday I am stoked and satisfied. It may not have been the cleanest conditions but there were waves all weekend and at times they were really good.

    Today was similar to yesterday, maybe a bit more consistent and a bit more drift due to wind out of the South. When the wind was blowing it was opening up the lefts, when the wind laid down it let some rights come through.

    To get the bigger sets (shoulder / head) you had to work by paddling way outside and then a constant slow but deliberate paddle to the South to stay on peak. After a couple hours of that I finally gave in and let myself drift up the beach catching waves at each peak and that’s when I got some of my best rides of the session, a couple of long lefts stand out in my mind. At end of my session I met a couple of dudes who drove up from Ft. Pierce. Nice guys, they were stoked.

    Now it’s Pizza time!
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2019
  13. Wavestrom

    Wavestrom Well-Known Member

    455
    Jul 5, 2014
    RI was fun this morning. Started off foggy but it lifted pretty quickly. Waves were 2-4', pretty much as predicted. Some idiot had their drone flying around the break for 40 minutes, like this was some epic session, irritating noise pollution. No hood for the first time this year, changed in 60˚ air - spring surfing is back and I'm psyched. Did see a guy out without gloves and he might have jumped the gun because the water is still in the 40s.
     
  14. SCOB3YVILLE

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    613
    Nov 16, 2016
    Barrel city this morning.
    High tide at first light of 4.5’. Small swell in the water, 2-3’

    Was getting roll ins from the outer bar and worked a few all the way to the inside. Got an awesome double up on the inside and back door’d a little 2’ barrel. Came out and hit a nice floater on the oncoming section. Only legit one I made but pulled into a bunch. Love days like this
     
  15. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Just got out of the water in Delaware. same deal. 3/2, boots, no gloves. Water is still not much above 50, but it air temps were warm out and light wind. Reasonable comfy for an hour and a half in small waves.
     
    Peajay4060 likes this.
  16. Manik

    Manik Well-Known Member

    381
    Dec 25, 2015
    Stoked for everyone scoring, sick kid this weekend so I'm living vicariously. Seems to be a lot of upcoming swell on tap so it's all good. Get on it buoys(and gals) for all of us who can't!
     
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  17. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    o barry, get your old bones south. The day our last kid graduates in 4 years, we are outta here! Will still come back for the summer/fall/late spring cause I do love it up here, but winters will find me warm and surf filled.
     
  18. mattinvb

    mattinvb Well-Known Member

    595
    Sep 9, 2014
    got a great session in on saturday! Finally surfed well - the last two times I went, I felt my positioning, timing, etc were all off and wasn't satisfied with how I was surfing. Was waist with sets in the shoulder to chest range - crumbly but with clean rippable walls. Had to go to the jetty (offered most protection from the south winds) with my 50 closest friends, but I got mine. Rode my new fish and that thing freaking rips. Super skatey - cutbacks were on the verge of spinning out, but never did. Really enjoyed doing turns, and made a ton of sections that I might not have on a thruster. So glad I chose to ride it instead of my sb. It's now my favorite board for the time being. Cant wait to get wet after work today!
     
  19. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Huh?? You mean....you actually convinced a female to breed with you??!!??
    Remarkable!!!
     
  20. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    895
    Jul 13, 2016
    twas a fun Saturday. got in early early off a recommendation from a buddy that the swell was leaving. it wasn't...so i got two sessions in at the washout. real sneaky drift south, and a lotta lefts presented themselves. so i scooted down the beach pretty quick, had more than a handful of peelers n squeelers to edge out getting rammed down by some shoulder hi's. hit up the local shop on record day, then made my way back at hi tide with the onslaught of summer beach traffic. undeterred tho, less drift n gotta to try another board to catch some more. water warmed up, no booties, some ppl skinning, it was weird. did get jelly of one kid with a mid-length single fin gliding around. i don't think it'll be too long before i get one myself