who here has been surfing this week?

This morning wasn't what I thought it was going to be. Based on the forecast and buoy I figured it would be a solid waist - chest and clean so I grabbed my 6' M-80 for a change since I haven't ridden a thruster in a while, pretty much ever since I got the twin fin.

I checked the same spot I hit yesterday and it looked flat. Flat? Really? And it was the last bit of outgoing tide too, usually that works around here with swell on the buoy. Well, not to be deterred, I went back to the more crowded spot and it was nothing more than some clean shorepound, and to top it off they were running a grom contest.

I almost turned around and went home but figured what the hell, if they can do it I can do it. So I paddled out and caught some shore pounders. One in particular had a nice wall to it and I had a good view for a moment before getting whomped on the bottom. In order to get one you had to take off in knee - waist deep water and ride into the sand practically. Not my favorite session, but better than nothing I suppose.

 

it's summer, i'm seeing flat swell for the week ahead. bout time to rewax the boarts to that warm/tropic outlook. hence why i'm looking forward to catching bells beach comp - get my fix. flying outta dirty myrtle, brought my fish despite the almost gale force conditions in case ya know there's time to get a lil salty

 

So have I. Actually, no. The swell missed us!! Flat again!!

 

This next low is moving off NE so maybe you will get the goods...

 

Tomorrow looks BIG down here... wind will be the question. Too bad I’m gonna miss it. Again.
But Sunday looks decent for LB so I’m gonna be happy

 

Pretty funny that Swellie has it waist high and those numbers will be OH at the beach... or a big pile of mush

 

When you brave some crazy winds to get a few waves in. Buxton about 5:00 today.

 

Surfline, of course, has it at 1-2’

 

Always like the kid pix, they all rip and look frothy doing it. True stoke.

Keep 'em coming

 

After eating breakfast at the Sunglow Pier I paddled out on the South side of the Pier with a little bit of NE wind and an incoming tide. I rode the Fish first and then the LB. Both were fun but the LB offered longer rides and as the tide filled in it got better and better. It was a little bumpy and dumpy but there were moments of semi clean open faces and that made me smile. A few were a legit waist - chest and rippable. Cold Sweetwater 420 to drink and off to get some grub now.

 

Can confirm Swellinfo had the correct forecast today. Far, far from overhead, better than 1-2'.

Looked good on the cams but a stiff cross wind came up during my drive out and it was pretty crap to start. Blown out cross chop. However, the wind died down and the waves cleaned up eventually for some fun LB waves. Sun came out but it was still hood conditions for sure.

No sharks or localism seen.

 

Any bikinis yet??

 

Just under my suite.

 

A few leftovers this morning in OCMD. Cold wind blowing straight offshore grooming things nicely.

 

Some real fun ones today! Heavy west wind, but I like it that way. A few of the first spots that I normally surf just were not working... found a sweat sand bare at a well known spot that was just perfect! Long long rides of the like that only happen a few times a year. Just wasn’t that big but still a blast. Only one other guy out from Maryland non the less, fun times.

 

The early birds scored yesterday , surf came up again as the wind increased , solid overhead s wind swell .

 

It was a great week to be on the Outer Banks. Now back to reality......

 

Glassy, light offshore winds, and clean sets - thigh high/waist high and a lot of shorebreak closeouts but the gems were there if you waited and paddled for them. Local guy had what I think was his teen son with him and it was fun watching him get used to paddling and timing waves and he eventually figured out to stand on the bar chest deep and get on board and paddle on the inside... he caught a ton of nice rides and I hooted and hollered and sent stoke his way.
I grabbed my red mini Mal as usual but it’s slow unless the wave has some period so I missed out on getting more, longer rides but I’m still happy. Now another week of blah ...

 

I like that colorful Roberts

 

The camera likes that colorful Roberts too. Colors that pop like that really help the camera focus. That's Dallas Tolson. I got several excellent shots of him at the Lighthouse one day.