Another fun day at the Pier. There’s barely any swell on the buoy but somehow there was knee - waist clean liners out there. I caught a bunch on the LB and then I did some body surfing in the shore break and got tubes on my belly. Last night we went up to Jax beach and saw The Hip Abduction at the Surfer Bar. It was a great time. So much fun this weekend. We have another day till we go back to Melbourne. Drinking a Sweetwater 420 and figuring out what’s for lunch now. I had a blackened Mahi sandwich yesterday. Might do that again, hmmm.
I’m back at home from my mini B Day vacation. I caught some knee - waist shore break windswell on the Fish at high tide. As much as I enjoy getting away, I always enjoy coming home too. Good to be back.
Doesn’t look like I’ll be this week... One of the shitty parts of new schedule is it’s tough to travel out of the way because windows are few and short. But its light out later and later so those cool evening seshs will be more appreciated
Been away... been missing out. Haven't surfed for aboot a week... but it was fun. Got a fiver or two on the log, and pulled into a bunch of little coverups. The further into spring we get, the fewer and further between the swells come.
got in it this morning. w a couple buds at washout for DP. More chop than i expected but the push was there. peaks were spread out. the swell had a solid momentum tho to get some rides to shore. def need a change of the guard for wax as it's heating up. had some close outs and nice manuevering rides to get me thru some stomach to chest hi swell. no drift, lotta gnats on the beach. should be carrying on this wknd
The punch is there if wind will cooperate few this afternoon got out at iop lotta side shore current moving north to south one old dude in a hybrid sup/surfboard with that foil on the bottom he paddled out and I never saw him again
We in a 3/2 yet for NJ water? I been spoiled in PR last couple weeks. Hoping to come back to less rubber. Looks like we have swell on tap but crap winds.