who here has been surfing this week?

Yeeeessss! LMAO, glad you're ok brother, yeeeew!

 

I'm good, just another 1/2" shorter.

 

My oldest son made a strike mission down there for this swell. The water color was incredible this week compared to the mud colored water we had when I was down there chasing waves 2 weeks ago.

 

Just got back from a fun LB session at low incoming tide. I took my wife and the neighbors with me. I tried teaching the neighbor how to surf and he did OK, it was a mellow 2-3ft day so paddling out wasn’t hard, he managed to get into a few waves but unable to get to his feet yet. He had fun though. I caught a couple dozen fun ones. Now cold IPA’s and French Toast casserole prepared by my wife. Beautiful day out today!

 

Headed south for a few hours of fun rolling waves. The waves were weird today in that half the time they looked like they were about to break and the kind of ... didn't. No hydrofoil, only one SUP, no kayakers, no sharks - good mix although the line-up is definitely getting a little thicker.

Probably the last time I need gloves. Cold and drizzly to start but got sunny at the end. Off to youth sports for the afternoon.

 

[QUOTE="Wavestrom, post: 527637, member: 43105The waves were weird today in that half the time they looked like they were about to break and the kind of ...[/QUOTE]

I hate that. I call them decepticons

 

I hate that. I call them decepticons[/QUOTE]
I always say to myself ‘you got faked’ lol.

I hate when the wave looks like a suite double up that is going to just do its thang, you paddle your arse off all pumped thinking you are about to get an epic ride, then you get denied. #decepticon!!!!

 

French toast casserole and IPA? At first I was thinking that sounds gnarly together but on second thought, IPAs go with anything! Rock on...

 

Perfect combo, highly recommended!

 

Surfed twice today.
Went out in front of the house on a dropping tide. Super glassy. And some forerunners of this south swell that’s suppose to stick around for a few days. Ends up pouring while I’m out there and at the same time a set pulsed through. Majestic.

Came in ate some strawberries and got some supplies for a 5 hour road trip to Phoenix tomorrow to see Lord Huron/Orville peck.

Anyway, walked back up just to scope it out and it looks like the swell is really filling in now, so I went back out and had another hour of fun waist to chest high waves on the longboard with an incoming tide. Winds came up around 1 and so did the decepticons. Called it a day and drinking a beer on the patio, simmering in the beautiful spring sun.

Cheers

 

Evil decepticons...

Looks like we have another chance at some spring goodness this week albeit a tad weaker...

Funny how they have been landing on hump day....

 

Where to begin? I guess by saying I f’ing surfed my balls off this morning!

It was clean waist high long lines with the occasional larger set mixed in.

It was so consistent that I literally caught a wave almost every two minutes for 3hrs straight. There was no lulls, no breaks, and no down time. I would catch a wave, paddle back out, see another one coming, line it up, spin and go.

Light WSW offshore winds kept the waves groomed all morning. The left’s were longer and offered more of a wall to carve up, the rights were quicker rides but I did manage to drop knee / pig dog into some close out mini barrels.

I honestly don’t know if it’s physically possible to catch more waves than I caught today. Just incredible.

My lovely wife had Belgium waffles, eggs and bacon ready for me when I got home and I washed it down with a couple of frosty cold IPA’s.

Damn I love surfing. (And my wife / life)

 

Mid Atlantic had some fun ones yesterday morn. Then the NE wind wrecked it! Waist-stomach, decent lines. Dinner and beers with friends in the evening. Not a bad day.

 

Man, the fun doesn't stop, at least not yet! I hit the same sandbar I have been hitting the last few days and it produced once again. The swell came down just a tad but not by much.

I caught dozens of waves on the mid outgoing tide and just like yesterday it was machine like, just pumping out these clean knee - thigh, occasionally waist high runners that would wall up, peel and stay open on the lefts and get more hollow and close out on the rights, these waves are perfect for the LB.

I love it when I can get face to face with the wave while dragging a hand in the wave face as I look at the sun light peaking through the coke bottle green water. Majestic! And the feeling I get in my feet and up through my body as I feel the center fin flex while I make my turn, put it on rail and and then set my line is incredible. Small waves are really fun when the conditions are just right, and that's exactly what they have been lately.

 

I always say to myself ‘you got faked’ lol.

I hate when the wave looks like a suite double up that is going to just do its thang, you paddle your arse off all pumped thinking you are about to get an epic ride, then you get denied. #decepticon!!!![/QUOTE]

I call it, "chasing shadows." But decepticon sounds way better.

 

Small but really fun morning. Pretty empty at the normal spot. Lots of little runners on the LB. Got my share and headed in for work by the time all the beachgoers started to arrive. Hopefully it holds for tomorrow morning as predicted so I can get out a little earlier. Another week and its full blown season where available time and conditions aren't in my favor

 

My buddy and I are in El Salvador and we are getting lit up by swell. head high to overhead last week, building by the day. ive alternately managed to score some gems, get my ass handed to me along with a head full of water, or just hammock surf, watching souls braver than me. typical set wave for last three days:

 

Wow... Safe to say you've scored... in a big way.

 

You always "score" no matter where you are ...............
But not missing much here, rained 1.5" the last 2 days and another "wind tunnel" the next 3 days so enjoy El Sal and keep the Pics flowing.

 

my buddy laying into one this morning. he came out of the water frothing like a kid. love it!