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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.
LB and Fish session today, it was better on the LB. Tomorrow looks fun.
I did same this morning before low tide, holiday crowds, and mid 90s heat hit. Thigh to waist high. Hope to do same tomorrow AM.
Some dolphin near the shore with their youngsters. Water felt much colder than the reported 68. Must've been some upwelling since yesterday or during the night.
Steel Pier surfing contest and other festivities at the Oceanfront this weekend. The "surfing season" begins...
Hit it again this afternoon - wore the shortsleeve 2.5 hyperflex no booties or gloves... too soon but holy shit the WAVES! Groomed, offshores, and pumping. Sets varying from waist/chest to OH monster rights and closeouts. And I surfed the Roberts!! I caught a good dozen rides and each one got better and easier and even had two nasty hard bottom turns, one by accident and one by pure need - and stuck them both. I have the sweet spot dialed in fornpaddling, foot placement so the tail doesn’t drag so now it’s just getting that pop up
Smooth and consistent. But I was pumped to get into some big waves and get up and ride down those faces on it. Great day and shoulders held up. The board is actually easier to paddle for
Me than my fish. Great day buoys. Great day
Water warmer this morning - back up in the upper 60s - but choppier than yesterday...waist high. Beat the holiday crowds again.
Enjoy your Memorial Day and appreciate the hard earned freedoms we have in this country.
LB heaven this morning, waist high and glassy with a few larger sets as the tide dropped. Some long rides all the way to the beach. I had a blast surfing with a buddy of mine from Jax. Great conditions, typical Spring / Summer swell.
Really fun swell this wknd. Longer period(?), direction(?) offshores(?) Don't know, I leave that for greater minds.
Sunday was sublimely superb all day long. Got 2 sessions in, out of shape = fried by 8pm.
Went a few miles into the TPTSNBN on Sunday morn. Zero people in the water it was a treat: turn & burn for hours. Evening sesh @ State also fun, good energy from the ocean.
This morning also fun.
Capper was the drive back in decent time, 160 miles in 132 minutes to beat that insane trfk.
Great to see many American flags flying on the eastern shore, very different from asshatland of metro DC.
Best I can do. Wish I could get more photos.
Finally able to get in the water this week after a month sidelined with a foot injury. Take good care of your feet boys, there are so many bones and muscles in those puppies, and I've broken, fractured, sprained, torn a bunch of them and probably more to come doing stupid stuff.
Anyway, went north to Jax to spend the Holiday weekend with my folks. I did a sunrise session at my home break this morning, and for some reason that long period swell Central Florida got today was not making its way up there yet. It was knee, thigh high, grovel material, but so glad to go out and get a little more confidence from the injury. Plus, it's always nice to just be in the place where I learned to surf, sitting out there, watching the sun rise, even if conditions are crummy. Just so familiar and friendly, I think the best wave, which was a glassy waist high left, came as soon as I paddled out. A nice "welcome back, old friend!". Caught a couple of small sectiony ones that had opened up. The beach had a bunch of people, more than normal for 6:30 am, watching the sunrise. An activity I think people should do more often, to kick start their day and put themselves in a positive state.
Anyway, getting ready for tomorrow, supposed to be pretty fun.
Made it out to the beach Sunday, with my girl and her squad. We took their Jeep and went off road. It was just an absolutely gorgeous day, with perfect offshores in the am and waist to stomach hi sets coming through. Fun little A frames. I definitely saw some makeable barrels in the mix.
Not gonna lie, it pained me to sit there and just watch. Motivation to get right I suppose.
Sunday was an amazing day on Delmarva....non stop fun sized waves and zero wind all day. Surfed the longboard in the morning, 5'2 twinnie in the evening. Actually liked the twinnie better. New board for this year and its in high rotation lately. Very fast board.
Bright back lit ones are from mid morning, darker shots from around 8 p.m Sunday evening.
MOTIVATION. And food for the soul.
Sunday, chest to head with solid OH sets, clean, offshore all day, and just freaking pumping. Plus it was 80 degrees out. How often does that happen? And friends and family were chilling on the beach, with many snacks and libations on hand. I wish days like this were the norm and not the exception.
Surf was real good yesterday right down the street from our house. Got a ton of great pictures but had to cut it short because some idiot lost control of his car and smashed my parked car pretty badly and ended up in my neighbor's yard. Thank god none of the little kids on our street were out playing. Had a fatal pedestrian accident about 100 yards from our house on Friday evening too. Can't wait for Labor Day.
Glassy head high long period ground swell this morning. I rode the 5'8" Fish, which proved to be challenging on the high - mid outgoing tide. Difficult finding a good take off or a shoulder, but it improved as the tide dropped some and I got a few bomb sets that made me smile. Kinda wish I was on my 6'4" but i'm happy with the ones I got today. It got crowded quick too, I wasn't at my lonely sand bar today.
Great waves all weekend. Lots of fun... lots of sun. Lots of food... lots of booze. Not enough sleep.
Holiday and Friday evening drivers around here are among the worst.
Sounds like lots of fun in the sun this weekend. Family beach time with fun waves Sunday and Monday. Surfed with my cuz Sunday day and an old friend Monday. Winds could have been better yesterday but the AM was really fun. Sunday evening we stayed on the beach until sunset...super long day with a big crew of family and friends. We had 28 in our crew blasting tunes and enjoying the weather...
Drove out on the beach on Sunday to do some fishing and I wish I would have brought my board. Def some fun looking little waves came through that morning! Here is a pic of my buddy taking the yak out and then one of him in the oh shit zone. HA HA Good times!!