It’s been an awesome boart when waves cooperate. It catches small waves but likes a little more juice than what we had today. I’ve ridden it from knee high to head / overhead. I would say my best sessions on it were in the waist - chest - head range. I love being able to do cheater 5’s to get through flat sections and into the reform and then back on the tail just like on a LB, except it’s 5’8”.
Finally caught decent waves this morning.chest high with smooth faces. Got little mushy as tide came in
Lumpy NE wind swell with a minor SE mixed in. Glad I took the LB out. Caught tons of mediocre waves. It was actually a bit chilly (bare back) before dark at the end of sesh.
Caught a few fun waves today. Got mushy again as tide came in. Aboot 6 people out and no tourons due to clouds and rain. Life is goode.
Nice surprise this morning, left over East swell, was supposed to be knee high, surfed 4 hours on blue Tim Nolte glassy thigh/waist & few stomachs too until SSE swell kicked in. Even old guys get lucky once in a while .....................
can't believe the jellys are still out, been like 4 months now. got in myself at the washout both yesterday evening and this morning. this morning was glassy stomach to waist hi w the rare chest coming. it was beautiful. only out for a quick sess, but i was loving it n starving. rode the 6'9 loehr fisch. fresh wax on it which probably expalins the whopper wipeouts - five was the count. been a good couple days despite the shtty lookin forecasts. i've gotta do some more research on forecasting apps, i'll refer to the right tread today
LB waves for days at low tide these past 3 days here. Apparently a fun grey bump for surf Friday and Saturday here too. Watching TS Barry
If I didn't have to drive 2.5 hours and listen to my wife tell me how to drive I'd be there in the am with a smile, a doobie, and a LB. This afternoon after work on the high tide, I paddled the 6'6" NA Pill with a dive mask tied to the leash over a reef today, then attached the leash to my leg whilst free diving, then swam a bit towing the boart, then paddled against the current back to the south side of the reef and repeated. It was nice to stretch out the back, traps and lungs. Justin case I'm still alive when we get waves againne down here, or there is a swell upcoast worthy of putting up with The Mermaid's Tourettes Syndrome. She's on a roll.
Hooked up with Yankee this morning @ best bet for knee high short period swell. Its been too long since we shared a session and real good time, he has so much whit & stoke, as you all know. He should be back soon after he returns from Costa.
Fun sesh this afternoon at an old spot kind of come back to life this summer. Spot that wedges up little a-frames when everywhere else is soft longboard lines, but goes dormant for months on end. Used to be consistent...used to be where all of the OCMD kids learned to chuck airs. Used to...Used to...Used to... Got on it this afternoon on the low incoming tide with a couple friends.
